Martello

Thanks to all!!

On 12/2/2009 at 7:58 AM, rthibeau said:

BP 0193 by James Joyce (link below) shows pictorally the difference in the use of different peen hammers. There is also the double diagonal peen hammer which gives you both left and right diagonal peens on the same hammer. It comes down to whatever you are comfortable in using...the various styles are there to choose from for those who wish to have/use a variety for different applications.

I Forge Iron - BP0193 Diagonal Peen Hammer

Sorry for bringing back to life such an old content, but I am burning of interest for this BP0193...

Unfortunately I can't anywhere this blueprint... I hope it's lost for good... Does anyone know where I can find it?

Nice hammer Pnut!

Thanks for the support everyone!

Yep, this thing here will benefit from a better transition and a softer eye indeed. I will tweak it up as soon as I get a chance.

On 8/20/2021 at 5:07 PM, swedefiddle said:

The good part is, you can change it at any time.

swedefiddle, true story! That's exactly what I like the most about blacksmithing and in general metal carpentry.

But for the car axles hunting part... I dunno, my Chinese sucks and so far I didn't find local mechanics particularly ...collaborative 

I'll keep on looking and asking around anyways, worst scenario I will have to drive to the nearest big city, nothing impossible.

Thanks again for all the support folks!

Woops, sorry for the omission 

Then ladies and gentlemen, here it comes the update. 

Finding an axle nearby is almost impossible. I mean I know there should be a place so full of axles that mechanics gotta dive into them to work. I just haven't find it yet. 

Good news is that I found a 1050 supplier instead, that gave me cutted scraps for free 

This is the result. My first hammer... not the state of art but as first shot could be worse.  

It's a 400g flat wedged thing for tweaking small blades, it'll come handy. 

Thanks Frazer for the hardness test files suggestion, they work great and so I discovered that 1050 can be cooked out just as hard as I wanted 

Wow this was quite unanimous! Well, then ...axles it is! 

I will update here once I got one,

thank you gents!

Aaaaah Thomas... Well said indeed! Thanks!

Actually I thought about it too. Tho I never made something with axles. 

With zero experience I can't help but feel a little awkward not knowing for sure what steel I am going to work with.

But most important I did't notice any car junkyard in my area so far.

Anyways, if I manage to find one I will give these axles a shot for sure.

Ahah yep, I read about differential tempering somewhere in the forum, it seems a reasonable alternative to oven. 

I still prefer oven treatment, but in my case I can't even call it a "oven", so yeah... I will consider differential tempering. Thanks!

38 minutes ago, Frazer said:

If knowing the hardness is critical for you, are you able to purchase a set of hardness testing files? They usually come in a range from 40-65 HRC depending on the set.

I didn't know such files existed! I just had a quick view on Amazon: way cheaper than durometers, thanks!!

Using YK30, is it possible to reach 55 ~ 58 HRC with 2 cycles at 220°C by only extending each cycle time? 

No, I am not crazy. 

Long story short: here in Taiwan is almost impossible to find AISI 1060 or similar.

Well, you do have options actually, but nothing that could be handle with a simple coke forge and a home oven. 

I live in a rural area and the only thing I can get here is Daido YK30. Daido says it's similar to O2, tho I dont know what did they smoke because it looks pretty different to me. I can't refer at O2 sheets for heat treatment...

I have to choose between 1045 and YK30. I already had experience with 1045 and meanwhile I found it very good for hardies I don't like it when it comes to hammer heads. So YK30 it is.

I want an hammer with head surface between 55 ~ 58 HRC after tempering. 

I made a knife with it first, just to test it. 

2 temper cycles 220°C x 1hr each. 

I don't have a durometer, I can only make a guess on its edge retention but I can tell this thing here is nothing under 60HRC. 

Now, since I can only rely on my home oven (when my wife is out) I can temper at max. 220°C. 

Online I can only find this chart that I attach here FYR. 

Please don't tell me that I need to find another steel or get myself a real HT oven for good... I wish I could. 

For now I just gotta deal with a small home oven and plenty of YK30. 

Thank you deeply, in advance for your attention and time. 

Actually a rust patina is desirable, I mean, a stable brown one.

All the other anvil Ｉ got in my life they all were used with their well developed patina. This is my first brand new anvil, that's why I don't really know how to deal with it.

And yeah, this is a tropical place, moreover the ocean is 3 miles away as the crow flies... I don't feel like I want to underestimate this enviroment.

Natural wax can't be found nearby. Maybe pitch or other chem waxes like trewax...

On 7/22/2021 at 7:50 AM, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

Just let it rust. When you see orange rust, buff it off with a rag, Not down to bare steel, just until the orange is gone. You will have a nice patina in no time.

Sounds like an extrema ratio but sure... this should work too.

Plus, I bet all my other anvils faced the same fate  

As for now I am just keeping wiping it off every day, like I never did even with my first car.

Yep, I don't have rust issues on the hitting surfaces, I use them often enough.

Pitch !! That would be a great option indeed!

My area is kinda rural... suppliers here don't have such special items,

but if somehow I could manage to get some I would give it  a shot for sure,

thanks!

Gentlemen, 

thanks for all the advices, feel like I've finally made up my mind.

Paint... naaa, paint it's a hurban legend, I don't believe in the existence of paint.

It's like bigfoot, flat earth or business plans.

Trewax or ATF automatic transmission are quite palatable, I am gonna experimenting both ways and see.

Thanks!

Cheers,

Martello

I live in a tropical contry, therefore in order to don't let my stuff rust in one day I got my workshop built outside, veranda style.

It helps but it doesn't do miracles.

So now, for the first time I decided to buy a brand-new anvil, a good one.

I stripped off the paint, dressed the edges and stuff... but now there's a lot of shiny metal exposed to air.

And this is when I thought: a forced patina helps with taking under control red rust on blades... so why shouldn't it work with a just little bigger chunk of steel?

So far I've just been keepin my stuff well oiled, but sometimes for some works I need to degrease everything and it's not fun... If a forced patina could help...

ahahah indeed. 

No, well, all those properly said "abuses" come from my early times. 
Wait, I still hit the anvil by mistake these days too but... that doesn't count as abuse, does it? 

7 hours ago, Frosty said:

You need some time working with an experienced smith, someone who will yell at you and make you sweep floors if you abuse a tool. 

That would be the dream of a lifetime!

I actually already did that "yell and floor-sweeping-life" by a mechanical workshop in my teen years, so I do totally understand and 100% quote what you say Frosty.

Thank you fellas for the support!

Then if hardness value is not that critical as it though, think I am gonna just see my dilemma under a financial-wise perspective 

Hi folks,

I am new here, nice to meet you all.

I am an amateur that needs a new anvil and this time wants a good one.

I am kinda lost between Fontanini and Refflinghaus, 125kg.

After few days on this forum reading your comments I still have a doubt.

My experience so far was on a self designed anvil made by a simple block of UNI C45.

It was professionally heat treated by a company in my hometown but time passed by, and  I forgot how hard is this thing. Something like Fontanini I'd suppose.

It dented a lot, chip just once on the edge under crazy abuse.

Since I already worked for a long time on a 50+? HRC anvil, that Refflinghaus 60+ HRC value both fascinates and scares me. 

What if I miss the work and hit on the anvil by mistake? Will I find a chip of hardened metal flying to my eyes like a bullet?

Therefore I ask you fellas...

Refflinghaus could be a miss forgiving anvil or it's made only for super pros?

Any experience you could share with me?

Thank you!