Stradawhovious

Here’s #5 for me. 1084, Black G10 with red G10 liners. This pic was just before putting an edge on it. 

Here’s #5 for me. 1084, Black G10 with red G10 liners. This pic was just before putting an edge on it. 

Thanks all!  Certainly good advice here.

So, I’m hand sanding a blade for the first time. So far so good, but the area around the plunge grind is giving me fits as far as making all the lines even. Any advice on how to finish out sanding around this area?

Thanks in advance. 

You can never have too many hammers. 

Neither can I!  Thanks!  I look forward to soaking up the knowledge of the more experienced folks like a sponge, and learning from each one of my projects.   

New here, but I'll join in on this one anyways.  "Stradawhovious" was taken from the Simpsons episode "The Be Sharps" when Homer found an old violin at a flea market, snarked "Stadawhovious?" and tossed it over his shoulder. It's relevant to me because I was a Luthier for a little over a decade years back, and we used to joke about it when I was in school for violin restoration. 

Since then (1998) I've used it as a screen name on every forum I've been in.  Old habits die hard.

Not on the very first one "top pic", since I forgot (first knife jitters) but in the others  I have a bunch of 1/8" holes drilled in addition to the holes for the pins. Not sure how much weight reduction that offers, but if nothing else it provides a place for the epoxy to grab... and these blades are pretty small and light to begin with.

Yep, normalized, sorry new at this, still learning the lingo.  The wood was used out of convenience on the first two since I already had it laying around, then I opted for the G10 on the third for convenience in cleaning and durability.  After I knock a few more out I may look into the removable scale option.  Kydex seems like a solid go to for the sheath on these.  Scrub them out, dry and good to go.  As far as leaving the top of the tip flat, it just seemed more conducive to the design for me, especially when working around things you don't want to puncture.  I'm anxiously awaiting field testing notes from the folks that I'm giving these to, so I can modify the design accordingly (it's going to be a minute, with deer season 7 months away), so for now these are just an exercise in learning more than anything else being the first three knives I've made.  I'm sure these will get refined, and better with every one, that's the hope anyways!  Thanks!  The handles really are incredibly comfortable and easy to index for their intended purpose.

1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

Intended use?  Alloy?  Heat treat?   The handles look excellently sized and shaped for some uses! 

I'm not a big fan of lots of unground steel unless it will be used for prying; but that's a personal consideration.

These are small skinners, OAL is around 6” on all of them. I know a lot of hunters, so these three have already found homes. The steel is 1084, thermocycled 4 times and quenched in oil, then tempered at 375f for two hours, twice.  I carry one of them as an edc, and it’s incredibly handy. 

Howdy!  Noob here hailing from the middle of nowhere central MN.  I've been tinkering with forging steel jewelry for a few months, and now have started in on knives. I will be starting with stock removal (3 blades in, 4th in the tempering oven as I type this) but hope to graduate to forging blades once I get my feet wet so to speak.  Here are a couple pics of my first three. Will be sticking with small skinners for the time being, as I figure it's better to practice the same thing over and over rather than throw a bunch of variables into the mix right away. Far from perfect, but perfect from far.  I have a lot to learn, but have come a long way in a short time.  Looking forward to learning from the lot of you!