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I Forge Iron


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About Chenier

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     Annapolis, MD

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  1. I purchased an NC Tool "Round Horn" anvil in February. My prior experience was a 1-day blacksmithing class two years ago, so I don't know enough to know if it's a "good" anvil. But it hasn't been a bad anvil for this beginner. You can see a photo of the anvil and my setup in this thread. Oh, and I don't have to worry about the neighbors calling the cops. They are the cops.
  2. If you don't understand machine language, how do you grasp what the machine is doing? I programmed for about 50 years before retiring from the field. The underlying logic structure of what the machine can do is common to all the programming languages that live on top of it. For a long time the rest was syntax and function calls (subroutines for you BASIC folks, macros for Microsoft Office). Windows, Mac and object programming were simply different ways of packaging the same stuff. Artificial Intelligence and the underlying chips that support it have really begun to change the game. I
  3. Here are the last two bits of forging for the boat. A bracket to hold up the center of the splash coaming: And a bow handle: I'm going to resist the temptation to forge the mast and boom so I'll be off carving wood for a while...
  4. Spent the weekend making a 6-brick forge. Copied the "no weld" design that Frosty posted. Not positive, but I think it's somewhere in Forges 101. Anyway, it was straightforward to build just from a photo. It worked fine for my purposes. With my Zoeller 1/2" burner at the lowest level I've been able to sustain fire (4 psi) it got a spot on the wall opposite the burner glowing orange. Since I'm forging bronze right now that's good - not too hot. I imagine when I apply Plistix and crank up the BTU's it'll be hot enough for steel work. That bit of 1/2-inch rod you see next to
  5. My plan is to hit the "Rescue Me" button, lay down horizontal and take a nap.
  6. I'm with George. High visibility in the wilderness is generally undesireable unless it's hunting season or you need rescue. The personal satellite beacons are good - they'll summon help quickly. I carry one on my person when I fly myself over wilderness terrain or ocean as the beacons in planes are notoriously unreliable. The ones that let you send texts require a subscription. Target market for those are people who want to send home an "I'm still OK" message when on a multi-day trip. Or just want to tell the home front when to get dinner ready. They can still summon help.
  7. "Chenier's Custom Crafted Boat Doodads" has a nice ring to it. Did I mention I use traditional methods?
  8. Thanks all. I'm tackling these projects in order of (anticipated) difficulty. More to come. Pnut: One of the tricks to forging bronze is don't let it get too hot. Dull red is the max. That's not hard when your heat source is an open-air gas burner such as I'm using. I was able to get the 1/4-inch rod for the padeyes to show some color. Not so much the gudgeon. But that got hot enough to be workable. JHCC: Yup, gudgeon are fish, too. Frosty: No requests yet. All of these doodads are available off the shelf in plastic or stainless for way less than I'd charge (if I were making a
  9. Hammered out a couple more doodads for the boat: This is an Open Fairlead. Basically a hook that you loop the mainsheet under. This is old school, the way Sunfish did it back in the Sixties. Nowdays the use a block (pulley). Rudder Gudgeon. A bracket that holds the rudder onto the back of the boat. It turned out my anvil was just as wide as the gudgeon needed to be long. That made shaping it a lot easier than I expected.
  10. When I moved to North Carolina in the '70's, liquor-by-the-drink was still illegal. When I asked why, the general concesus was that moonshiners were making so much money they could afford lobbyists to keep it that way. If you wanted drinks with a meal, you brought your bottle in a bag and took it home with you if there was anything left. IIRC it changed in the early '80's and went county-by-county.
  11. BillyBones, sorry I missed your post. You're probably on the right track. I decided experimenting on something other than the real lock might be bright idea. Steel cover plates for electrical boxes are the right thickness, so I drilled and chamfered holes in a few. The stunt double for the lock part was some 3/4-inch rod on which I turned a 1/2-inch end and drilled end-to-end the same size as the doorknob shaft hole. Then I started hammering. Peening worked, but it was pretty ugly. What worked best was a mandrel with a short taper to expand the "rivet" from the inside. It's the mandr
  12. You could try commercial insoles that you can buy at larger drug stores or Wally World ... This. I’ve learned the hard way I’m susceptible to plantar fasciitis. Those off-the-shelf insoles have made several painful pairs of shoes useful again.
  13. >> open fairlead. What is it made from? << It's 655 Bronze. >> Do you have any pictures of the boat you are building, other than the one in Introduce Yourself? << Just a few. The photo of the fairlead is #356. I've been documenting the build in a thread on the plan designer's website. If you google "hybird moonfish" (including the misspelling) you'll find it. Registration might be required.
  14. While contemplating door lock parts, I had the opportunity to bang out another boat part. Called an "open fairlead", it's basically a 1/2-inch hook that one loops a line (aka "rope") around to change its direction. A bit simpler than a pulley, to say the least. Used on the early versions of the boat I'm building.
  15. >> Is it a lock or a door latch? << The overall mechanism is both. The part in question belongs to the latch side of the contraption. Doorknobs are attached to a square shaft which passes through the middle of the part. The part's arms push on the actual latch to move it. >> Does the rivet ride in a groove in the rotating ring to hold it all together? << The part itself is the "rivet". It protrudes into a chamfered hole. The narrow side of the hole is on the inside, it's wider on the outside. The part has been smashed to match the chamfer, which holds the
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