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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by lupiphile

  1. Hello, You might want to post the hp, or cfm ratings for your compressor so as to get more specific information. I have an early version of a phoenix hammer, replete with a 2.5" -12" stroke air cylinder, and if just used for single blows at about 115 psi, your average 5 hp compressor would do just fine. Oh I forgot to mention, it has a 180lb tup weight with my normal flat dies. Hope this helps some. Take care, Matt
  2. Do you ever make shop drawings? That doesn't really look that bad, you just need to refine it. Even when I'm designing large intricate projects (gates, Railings, yellin-y stuff) I start with drawings like that. Then I tape it to the drafting table and out comes the trusty roll of tracing paper. It's really about the cheapest paper a person can by so don't be intimidated about walking it to art supply store and having them burn your wallet at the stake, like can definitely happen with other drafting supplies. you put a piece of tracing paper over you original and go over the whole thing using your sketchy sketch as a guide. if its better do the same thing with your refined sketch, if its worse throw it away or erase the areas you dislike. tracing paper erases very cleanly. I erase so much I actually have an automatic eraser. its a god send and only cost 6 bucks from dick blick. I do that 3 or 4 times and I have a drawing thats ready to be shaded, though that seems like a non issue in your case. I'd encourage you to go through the process, after you become comfortable with drawing( notice I said comfortable with,, not good at) your forge work will become much, much better. And hell. for the last month and a half or so I've made more money selling drawings of my ironwork than selling ironwork, I'd like to think those drawing shall turn into actual jobs but I've been paid either way, and I don't even have any injuries to show for it. Take care, Matt
  3. Mr. Dillon, I truly appreciate the idea of using a 500lb hammer to texture 3/16 annealed bronze. I believe there's some old saw about actions and words, but I can hardly recall my own name, with all this low frequency pounding...thump..thump..thump. Beautiful work, Take care, Matt
  4. This is turning into a right interesting discussion. In addition to all the excellent points made by everyone older and wiser than myself, I'd like to emphasize making sure your forging hard enough. I have a 175# phoenix hammer with guides that don't stand a fighting chance. It took me about 2 years of forging several hours 4-5 days a week, before I keep everything square, MOST of the time. If you have big flat dies and your trying to make graceful tapers, you just have your work cut out for you. Things got better for me when I bought a smaller hammer, and I got frustrated with how little the metal moved. I then became much more confident about laying on the treadle to much closer to finished size. Then I noticed when I would go back to the bigger hammer everything would start working itself out. It's all about that confidence. Like when your holding a punch or a hot cut and swinging at it with a hand hammer, If you think about where your going to hit, or how your going to swing, you'll just end up hitting your hand, or breaking your hammer handle, or worst of all, not getting any work done. Just make the investment in scrap. Metal is cheap, your time is not. Also for the whole square, octagon, round thing under the hammer, I've found that the hit turn works just fine for square, but when I go to octagon (talking about under 3/4" or so, bigger stuff I stick with the hit, turn) things work better if you flatten one whole corner, down the entire length, turn 90, flatten the next whole corner, make sure the faces are even, then flatten the in between corners ( 8, 16, 32) That seems to take any twist out (or maybe it just doesn't put one in) turning constantly to get a smooth round has always ended up a mess for me. I hope I've provided something despite this inchoate, run on delivery. So to synopsize ( Give me inventive conjugation, or give me death! ) What everyone else said, plus hit it harder, is my take on things, Take care, Matt
  5. I wish the economy would get better so this thread could finally rest in peace. It was my understanding that back in the "good ole' days" smith's would die with a hammer in their hand (thumbs up or down, I wonder?) not face down, drool addled on a keybored(sic), engaged in pedantry............ thumbs down, obviously, Matt
  6. Pardon, but do you mean calcium carbonate? Like aglime? I've had pretty good success mixing that up with heavy clay-ey soil wetting it and tamping it. At my old shop my forge area actually had a sweepable dirt floor, wherein I mixed up clay heavy fill dirt, and mason's lime( different than aglime) at about a quarter bag to a wheel barrow full of dirt, dampened it well and compacted it with a regular hand tamper, I then raked it to key in the next layer of fireclay, masons lime , and course sand mixed it into a wet plaster and screeded it all over the place. then I trowled it after it had dried a little bit. I'm not exaggerating when I say you could sweep it. I would occasionally spray it down with linseed oil cut half with turpentine, from a pump sprayer. It made for an extremely comfortable work surface. Hope this helps. Take care, Matt
  7. What kind of bronze is it? silicon and naval weld beautifully, though naval is a little hard to get the weldiment to color match the parent material. architectural bronze tends to be all over the map as its a bit of a catch all classification, phosphorus bronze is just god awful, a bit like tig welding galvinized steel. It brazes alright though. If'n you forged this hummingbird I would say you won't have any problem welding it nicely. As for settings I'd say dc all the way,I've never come across anyone who welds bronze with ac if they have the option not to. On to amperage; do you have a foot controller or a torch controller? for foot control I tend to leave my welder at 220 so it can punch it if I need to but for most thin-ish bronze I'd guess I hover between 90 and 190. bronze is very conductive, if you've only tigged steel or stainless you will be very surprised how much amperage you'll need. I don't like torch controllers at all, as I tend to under and over shoot the amperage when im going from one puddle to the next. as a result I would curtail my available amperage so as not to be taking three steps back. Hope this helps,Take care, Matt
  8. I can second that from personal experiance. More, lighter, better(er). Take Care, Matt
  9. What an incredible amount of useful info, So much to respond to.... Mr. Stevens, A boric acid wash sure sound like a good idea, It probably would've occured to me right as the last of the plaster was being trowled on. A wrap around porch is something I dream about(being from the south) but unfortunately can't fit in my lot, or rather I can't justify the sacrifice of shop square footage. As to rising damp, I'm pretty sure I'm going to build a one foot knee wall out of tires and stone fill as a capillary break. Then plaster over the whole thing. sound good right? Jim, You got all that plastering done in a month?! that's xxxx fast in my book, what with all that detail work on the interior walls and everything, were you working by yourself? Incredible. Cliff, Yea I was pretty much thinking the same thing, from my experiences in england I'd say the sun never shined on the british empire, or rather an empire was created just to be able to live somewhere sunny and enjoy a good cup of tea at the same time. If you all can get away with straw bale anybody can. the video link unfortunately didn't work, something about a licencing issue. Thanks for trying. Alan, I god, man someone should publish a book of your letters. Where you born this helpful or is it like a skin condition that develops with time? If I ever get to the part of england you dwell in I will corner you long enough to heartily shake your hand. It's good to hear your building a new shop. One of my favorite articles in the history of blacksmithing magazines is the " He who dares, wins/ goes broke" that you published in baba. That scale of work in that size shop is one impressive feat. Also cause for me to bite my tongue, hard, when ever I would start to complain about lack of space. Enough of this glad-handing, on to the questions. Ok I get the benefit of the inertia blocks, but how do you go about creating an air buffer between it and the floor? When I build my extension I plan on moving my forging area onto dirt, so maybe that question is irrelevant, but I would be curious to know what others have done. Block with lots of rockwool makes sense, but is far out of reach of my buget, I like the acoustic wool for the ceiling, I was thinking of using something like that, fiberglass batt and a air gap for my roof. How do you deal with the skylight and sound? I like that you reference jet engine test beds like its something we all had experience with back in grade school. that's pretty funny. Do you have problems wasting heat with a positive displacement fan, and/or do passive ridge vents provide enough fresh air in a closed shop? Actually, what is a positive displacement fan, as opposed to a regular ventilation fan? and I can't really think of ridge vents that wouldn't send sound sideways, though I'm probably missing something. I totally can't envision building crane infrastructure outside of walls that thick, how would the crane ride on its supports, without the supports being cantilevered the distance of the thickness of the wall? A blacksmith building a mansion? I live in the wrong country. As to my stucco gun, it's modeled after a commercially made model just simplified, somebody came up with it long before me and I've made a few of them modifying it slightly each time, I wish I could remember the original website but alas I built my first one like 7 years ago and haven't referenced it since. I've used the tirrolessa sprayers and though they are a hair faster, the're just too xxxx heavy for my liking, I have a torn rotator cuff and holding 40 lbs( 2.857 stone ) on the end of a stick is murder on my shoulder. I sound like an old man( only thirty) I'll try to get a picture up. As that I don't have a super phone like every other person and their dog, does these days , loading picture means pulling them off my camera and sending them through 2 different programs to resize them, resave them and upload them, but I'll get around to it in the next day or two. I promise you will be underwhelmed. Thanks for everything, Matt
  10. Mr. Stevens, your right I could make a tire wall and stucco it but that would be almost as much work as adobe and would contribute no insular properties to the project. That much mass is a wonderful capacitor, but we don't really have the daily tempature swings that make that kind of building make sense in places like new mexico. But I've thought long and hard on the subject mostly on account of the preponderance of the xxxx things in the city. Jim, thanks abunch for the pictures. That shop of yours is a real looker. Where in manitoba did you find the trees for such a substantial timber frame? I thought all you all had was prairie flowers?How long did all the plastering take? That place of yours is truly an inspiration. How do you heat? Is there anything you would've done differently? EGreen, straw bales that I'd been quoted were 1.50 each but I was planning to buy over 1000 bales at a time, maybe that has something to do with it? It seems like in nebraska you'd be positively awash with the things? As to rot, staw bales are more or less an established infill system these days. Structural straw bale is still a little iffy, but rot really only seems to occur with a roof leek situation and there are a few examples of straw bale homes that are over 50 years old in climates as harsh as nebraska's with no rot issues. Thanks again for all your responses, Take care, Matt
  11. Hey, thanks for all the lengthy insightful responses. Mr. Stevens, Yup, I kinda suspected that something so quick,easy and cheap as metal siding wouldn't work with the vanguard of hippy engineering. Wierdly lime plastering/mortar repair is an ex-hobby of mine, so I fully understand how labor intensive it is, thats why I was hoping to come up with some thing a little faster. I've built a stucco sprayer that works with lime based render, but man alive, I work by myself , and the idea of having to plaster 4000ft sq is a little overwhelming. Same goes for the other suggestions (adobe, concrete in forms) and oddly, clean dirt( you know, dirt, sans bricks, broken block, needles, bleach bottles, potato chip bags, and lead paint) is both expensive and hard to find. If I could just plaster the interior, I would be set.(after a few hundred hours, of course) As for zoning, and other litigious encumberences, Here in philadelphia, and especially in my neighborhood, it's always better ask for forgiveness, than permission. I have no street frontage at all (just a 100ft 8.5 ft wide drive way) and my property came with 5 illegal structures to start with. Once that deed transferred, they all became legal, that's the power of the philadelphia grandfather clause. In fact my primary impetus for this project is the city's reassessment of my property, the're doing blanket reassessments and some keen witted bureaucrat switched the numeric values for my property, so now they charge me as if I have a 9780sq ft building on a 1300sq ft lot. I've written and called, and appealed, but to no avail. obviously that would be a skyscraper surrounded by 2 story row homes. So I figure if they contend I have more square feet than the comcast center the least I could do is meet them half way. My property is also why anything like concrete is really hard, I can't get a concrete truck anywhere near my shop, so I'd have to carry my dumping hopper on my forklift full of concrete to do anything major. Hence my Idea of a metal building with straw bale infill. I could just make post footers and do rubble trench under the non load bearing bale portion, with maybe a knee wall made from gravel filled tires as a capillary break, hell tires in architecture is practically vernacular building in philly. It's WAY easier to get tires, than clean dirt. As to the sound deadening qualities of straw bale. I can't speak directly from experience on this, but i can on the subject of mass, specifically masonry mass and sound isolation. If you want to play your guitar through your 500w marshall stack at 3 am, a brick building is what you want. If you, say, want to run your 250lb power hammer at 3am, it's kind of the opposite of what you want. Have you ever put your ear against a hardwood table and had somebody rap their knuckles on the other end? thats my issue. In my experience nothing transmits vibration like a cementious material, where as my gut reaction is that straw bale is pretty much the other end of the spectrum. On to costs. In pricing bales I've found them to be slightly less than the insulation I was looking at for a metal building of this size and far more insular. Granted I'm under no illusions as to the work that would be associated with them( I god, woodrow!) specifically the plastering, but the cost is doable. As to structure, I plan to build a hella- stout freestanding metal frame and use straw bales as non-structural infill. there should be no issues with engineers after the fact. Mr.Kehler, I'd love to hear some insights, and specifics about your shop. How long did it take to put up? Did you plaster both inside and out? Do you have some kind of structural frame, aside from the straw bale? what kind of roof structure did you provide, and what type of roof insulation? Are there pictures you could post? Thanks again, all of you, Take care, Matt
  12. I am currently considering rebuilding my shop and the sound suppression aspects of straw bale seem greatly appealing. My shop is dead smack in the middle of a row homed-city block and I'd lobe to be able to run my hammers whenever I felt like it, I'm also cheap to the point of being able to squeeze blood from a penny, and am extremely cold adverse so straw bale seems like an obvious choice. What are y'all's feelings towards said building systems? I was thinking of making a metal frame (one day I'll have my bridge crane and eat it too) and doing straw bale infill.I've heard tale of condensation issues with metal siding and I'd imagine this would be detrimental to a straw bale wall. My shop, after the build out would be about, 55'x40'x12'-14'. Any insights or experiences would be nice. Oh and to make it clear before this becomes a "how do I appeal to my neighbors, sensibilities and get them to stop calling the fire department every time I want to make a bottle opener out of a railroad spike, thread ( should all of that been hyphenated?) I do this for a living and have the legal right to make as much buisness related noise from 8 am- 8pm monday through sat., as I like, I just need more time than that, And I'm not trying to ruin their lives(my neighbor, Tahera,actually reports of dishes falling off shelves,in her kitchen, from where my primary hammer is mounted now) I think maybe straw bale is the way. Take Care, Matt
  13. Though, this is not exactly what was asked, I thought I'd supply a alternative suggestion, I'd highly recommend a concrete anvil stand, especially for an anvil that small, If you pour afew hundred pounds of concrete under that it will behave like a much larger anvil. My main shop anvil is 320lbs and still benefited greatly from a concrete base, I would never go back to a stump for my main anvil. Take Care, Matt
  14. I've blackened quite a few large (8x15-20 ft....or 2438.4 x 4572-6096 mm) ss, architectural panels at the old fabricator's shop I worked for It was the middle of winter and the cold patination process is extraordinarly temperature sensitive, but given the size of the pieces I'd say its a process well adapted to doing it yourself. The only prep was a throrough bead blasting. And very carefull handling afterwards as the oils in your hands would create a mottling of the finish where it had been touched. it makes for a very pretty purple/black surface that I think would lend itself quite well to regular forgework. In the instance of my smaller experiments i'd say getting the stainless acid dipped first,to remove scale, would help the patination take and keep from getting furry. As to availability on the otherside of the pond, I haven't the foggiest idea, The stuff we used was a harbison-walker product ordered from a place called Chem city,If I recall correctly it was a nickle,silver,and stainless blackener, maybe they have a european distributor? The serious downside, like with all chemical patination, is how incredibly toxic that stuff is. Just looking at the bottle it comes in is enough to send my kidneys running for cover.The fumes aren't that bad but all of the nasties are absorbed readily through the skin ( like you get some on your hand and you taste it in the back of your throat 3 min. later) So thats something to consider. But it looks nice and holds up for just about ever, So that has to be worth some more minor form of cancer, right? Plus you' all have national healthcare in place......Over here I only know of about two professional blacksmith's with a real health insurance plan. My policy reads about like " if your arm is severed off, this policy and 5000$ will get it reattched" As to the abatement of that flash rusting that occurs on stainless when its been worked with steel. I've had great success with either dipping it or giving the work a light wash in a dilute phosphoric acid, it gets into all the nooks and cranies and converts any latent rust, to phosphoric oxide( nice neutral black) that is more or less permanent. Hope this helps,Take Care, Matt
  15. I have literal buckets of spring steel , I've gleaned from the railroad tracks near my house. If you can find a main line that they've done any kind of track work on in the last twenty years you'll be set. I go for the tie plate springs they run about 3/4x7/8, and when straitened are about 10- 14" long. I make almost all of my powerhammer tooling out of that stuff and am pretty much in love with it. h-13, and s-7 should really be off the table for someone starting out, It's going to leave a bad taste in your mouth, for making tools, which I think would be, terrible detriment to trying to get anywhere in this craft.. 4140 is fine enough. though also a pain to hand forge. w-1 might work just fine for alot of your purposes, and as for mail ordered steel its about as cheap as you can get. I'd caution against o-1, as being entirely unsuitable for just about any small blacksmith shop, not worth the trouble. Jack hammer bits I also use extensively though only for heavy fullers and hammers as the jackhammer bits in my area are all 1045 or something very similar, I,E. totally useless for punches ( makes nice drifts though). Were I,you I'd also try a suspension shop they always have 5160(spring) drops by the ton if you can ask them nicely(though try not to pay more than twice scrap value for drops, It sets a bad precedent, In my area thats 15-20 cents a pound) Ok I hoped that terribly constructed paragraph helped in some capacity, Grammatic strictures are thrown out the window at 4:30 am. Take care, Matt
  16. to continue( Iforgeiron dissapeared the rest of the previous post,) I'm using coke in a bottom blast. It's a fairly large, deep (6")fire pot , and I'm havingoxidation issues, Also and more pressing , with a bottom blast I've found my coke, being rather crumbly, has all this debris that gets blown all over the metal, and whist it make for some nice surface texture , it makes forge welding an impossibility( or lap welding really, any weld wherin I can't but help expose the scarfs to the burning fuel, faggot welds work fine) It's not clinker, I can tell the difference when that happens. I've been sorting the coke to keep the larger pieces out of the fire pot. Has anybody had this type of problem? Being in the states I don't know anyone else who burns coke exclusively. I am a professional smith and I'm in the middle of a largish ( I hate saying large in the company of Alan Evans, You sir, are an inspiration) gate with abunch of forge welded elements and this is proving to be a bit of a wall I've run up against. I even tried making a different fire pot. Have y'all seen the lillico book, blacksmiths manual illustrated? with all the steam hammer tooling? in the beginning it describes a type of forge they call a "pot fire" wherein the fire pot is a 18" deep 12x12" box with the blast coming in from the side and the tuyre flush with the side wall. the tuyre sits about 12" inches below the top of the forge. So I built a scaled down version as I'm not a railroad shop at the height of the industrial revolution. mine's made out of 1" plate and about 8x8" by about 9" deep. It makes for a nice controlled fire, with a lot less oxidation, given my inconstant sized coke but the crumbles still manage to pollute the working surfaces of my metal, still making lap welding extremely difficult. Thanks in advance for the help.
  17. Hey There, all. Not to derail the topic but I can't resist picking all these productive, coke-using(addled?) brains (that sounds a little off,huh?) especially after the mention of using a bottom blast for coke.
  18. Hey y'all, So I was in the middle of a long run of leaves today, when all of a sudden my hammer got very, very sloppy. I looked up and saw a maelstrom of oil and gunk all over the shaft of my air cylinder (I have an early phoenix hammer by-the-bye). After some investigation, it seems as if my oiler adjustment knob just decided to back it self completely out. So.... my question to all you utility hammer savvy folks, is what sort of solvent or other type of remediation should I use to clean out my five way valve. It looks as if all the oil settled to the bottom of the thing. I know norgren uses lots of sensitive plastic bits in their valves so I was wondering what might be ok to clean them with? Denatured alcohol? It would be nice If I didn't have to spend tomorrow morning disassembling all the plumbing of my hammer, so if I could just open up the valve in situ, drain what ever oil that has collected and spray some alcohol into the recesses I'd love to know in advance. Thanks a bunch, Take care, Matt
  19. Hey Y'all, I've finally managed to figure out how to resize and attach files. So mayhaps this shall clarify some of the more inchoate aspects of my pretty poor verbal descriptions. First off I removed the top cover and took some measurements and Daniel the induction guy, you are spot on. the cylinder is 6" (od). The control valve is featured in pictures three and four. three is an over all, and four is the nema plate(or the hydraulic equivalent). The first picture shows the pump head on with the dial indicator, to show line pressure. Thats the primary indication I have, that it's not a two stage pump. If I put a piece of wood under the ram and lower it ( like a two by four, not white oak) as the ram moves through it, there is no slowing and the pressure spikes alarmingly. The second picture shows the side of the pump with three knobs and an imprint that says "press torque" all of them seem to be screwed in tight, and as I really don't know how they work I didn't want to mess with them. The third picture shows the control valve, or really the control solenoid. There are two dial like things on either side that someone had written up and down on respectively. The dial like things don't move easily, and I'm lacking in enough bravado, or have been supplied with enough hardship of my own making, to not go lunging at them with a set of channel locks. The fourth picture, as previously mentioned, shows the nema plate. It says 3000 psi max, but I'm not sure thats an indication of it being set to limit pressure, It seems to me like more of a warning. The fifth picture, is kind of a general shot. You can see the control panel, with the run and jog and the up and down buttons. The digital pressure line switch is the little box off to the left. After having mucked about with the machine for the last few days, I will say the start capacitor is overloaded. It was installed with the belief that the machine would be wired for 408, It was rewired by the machinery dealer for 230. The little amperage dial on the capacitor only goes up to ten and the main lock out fusebox is fused with 15amp fuses. The motor says it draws 21.3 amp @ 220 60hz. So my question( amongst many) is can I safely ommit the start capacitor? or get one for a higher amperage? and fuse the whole thing at 20 or 25, or am I in danger of messing up something more important(i.e. expensive) like my motor? If this were a drill press or even a hammer, I wouldn't thinK twice, But I'm not real familiar with what type of strains are put on a motor in a hydraulic setup. How do you all have yours, done? Starter or no? Alright thats about enough of this for the day, I thank you all for any and all advise forthcoming , Take care, Matt
  20. Larry, Your wherewithal is , truly, an awe inspiring source of wonderment..... I hope this is the last thing you ever have to do to it. Best of luck, Matt
  21. Definitely not two stage, it let me know on that one, from the super fast pressure build up. The electric pressure switch works as a read out when its cycling in that mode, and there is also a dial guage on the out feed of the pump, It jumps VERY fast. As to the size of the cylinder; I've only measured the ram because that's what is visually accessible, but I've looked at the whole shebang and I'd say the width of the cylnder is about 4-5"? It's definitely not supposed to be run over 3000 psi as there are warnings all over the machine. Thats sort of my issue. It seems like the thing is set up to destroy itself in anything other than that silly run mode. It wasn't built as a forging press.Thanks for your help, Matt
  22. Hey there, I'm not sure if you are expressing a preference, but I imagine coke should be pretty readily available in your region. As for characteristics that analyisis above is a pretty good starting point. Charcoal is another option. It would be a tragic irony if you were unable to find charcoal in cyprus as that the entire island was denuded for the production of charcoal, during the bronze age. Take care, Matt
  23. So I've finally gotten around to getting this c-frame press wired up and moving but, it, or rather I with it, has a bevy of issues. It's a single end press( no real guides) with an overwhelming array of electronics. That alone is enough to make me uncomfortable. It has two modes : Run- wherein you hit a button and the press cycles down till this electronic line pressure switch tells it to reverse direction and then it continues until it hits a micro switch. The pressure switch can be set from 0- 3000. The other mode is Jog- wherein you can use the up or down button to move the ram where ever in the stroke.....or blow the start capacitor, break the guide rod, trip the main breaker, and trap whatever you were working on helplessly under 35 tons till you fix the problem. I've been looking through all these wonderful pages of information and it seems most people don't have these sorts of problems. My press has a 7.5 hp motor, powering a 1.5" ram with about 14" of stroke. It moves very, very, scarily fast. I know just about nothing, on the subject of presses. Clearly my motor is generating far too much pressure, but what it the best way to alleviate that? That pressure switch only works on the least usefull mode and the wiring for this machine seems more complicated than god, and most of the systems I've seen represented here and elsewhere don't have to have electric pressure switches to keep them from destroying themselves........ they just stroke till they can't and the operator reverses the direction. That's what I want. There's abunch of hydraulic guru's that call this forum home, but really just about anyone knows more about hydraulics than me so any help at all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Take Care , Matt
  24. Hey, not to change the subject, but as that this pertains to seals, airflow and functioning of a nazel type hammer, I thought I might hazard a question. Larry, that place you recommended for the leather packing also sells cast Iron rings, have you tried them? It would be nice for me to order all my seals and rings from the same place. Also Mr. Sarver had mentioned making use of polypak rings, any thoughts? There seems to be a bewildering array of different types of polypak seals, which ones would be suited to this application. Also the only concern that would spring to mind about o-ring type seals would be the over sealing of the piston, thereby not allowing the oil to get by the seal to the guides, lower chamber ect. ect. Do y'all have experiences with such a thing one way or another? Mr. Harris, I have two mufflers off 2b's (that's a mouthfull of pluralism if'in I ever heard one) one my shop floor right now. What measurements do you require? Take care, Matt
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