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I Forge Iron

Will Brouwers

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Posts posted by Will Brouwers

  1. Thomas, that is a really good idea…one that I should have thought of before…

    Chad, they are railings from a building that is new enough that they shouldn’t be wrought. I am just trying to be cheap. I think I am still being fairly economical. I bought a gallon of stripper for $60 and half of it has done around 80 feet of 3/4 stock on all sides. Idk how much 3/4 stock is per foot, but not including labor, I think I am ahead

  2. Hello gents, 

    I am hoping you all can continue to give me some advice. I bought some paint stripper suitable for lead (smart strip) and it has been working fairly well, except it doesn't seem to want to cut through the layer of primer on my metal. Maybe I just need to figure it out on my own, but I was wondering if leaving these out to rust will clear the last bit of paint off, or if I should strip it all the way down, or if there is enough there to not worry about it, assuming that the primer is lead based. All thoughts and comments are welcome! Thank you!




  3. Aha! I am a little slow, but I am getting it! Thanks for the clarification! I do know what a Frederick's cross is, a blacksmith made one from a railroad spike and gave it to my dad (also a pastor. I swear it isn't the family business.) 

    I just need time to wrap my brain around all the cuts, and maybe convince my wife to let my buy a powered bandsaw. I am 21, but cutting all of that with a hacksaw doesn't sound like a fun way to spend an afternoon!

  4. Thank you for your thoughts Arthur210. My wife said the same thing lol. 

    I figure it might not be a bad idea to try it out on a couple sticks. Worst case is that I have some more scrap, but also have some paint stripper lol.

    I am also in graduate school, studying to become a pastor, and when I get tired of all the heady theology I can go play around with my scrap :)

  5. Thanks for the replies guys!

    Thomas, these are railing pieces from a somewhat older building, built in the 1960’s ish and from looking around the forums I am not sure if I have lead paint, and if I do, what should I do with the metal. Like I said earlier, I scrap and this is how I found it, but free is free. Attached is a picture 


  6. Hey guys! I am hoping to pick some of your wiser and more creative brains.

    I have 2 questions: 1. I have a pass through Devil gas forge, and am using hard fire brick from home depot on the back side of it to help keep some of the heat in. The thing is, the bricks keep cracking and falling apart. Do you guys have fire brick that is tougher than what I am using? What would you recommend?

    2. I scrap metal as a hobby, and came across probably 160 feet of 3/4 in. square bar in 44 in. segments. I am already trying to make a set of tongs from it and I am thinking about making a camping tripod. I am realizing though, that I should practice the more basic aspects of blacksmithing first, like those found in S hooks. Is an S hook made from 3/4 bar overkill? What could I use it for?

    Tell me I'm crazy, or just tell me to keep forging!



  7. Frosty, I have loved seeing each and every one of your posts, and this one was no exception, especially the point where I posted another reply lol!

    I am a little confused on how I would split the bricks in half...that requires a brick splitting saw blade, right? And wouldn't it make the bricks more fragile? I am planning on using the hard brick. I am also confused on the V trench sides. Is this so that there is less fuel used/wasted?

    3/4 for tuyere pipe is what I have heard Charles, the side blast aficionado, use.  

  8. I think I may have found a better solution. There were two drawers in this cabinet. I was going to scrap them, but I might make them into a sort of WW1 style portable forge. I would again line it with firebrick or even normal brick...

  9. Hello,

    I have been lurking around here, learning and gleaning from the trove of knowledge in this forum. I have finally got all the parts I need to build a forge the way that will suit me best. I just need some professionals to bounce my ideas off of.

    To begin, this whole step up will all need to be portable, as the apartment that my wife and I are renting has a small backyard, and she doesn't want all this stuff in the living room. It has to go to the basement to be hauled out every time I use it. 

    As you can see in the picture, this old metal cabinet will be my forge base/table. I am thinking of laying bricks down on half of it. I would then set up brick around the edge to make my fire pot/pit. I have wondered though, will this be too shallow for a charcoal forge?

    For my air source, I will use the blower I just bought today ($125, maybe a little overpriced?). My problem comes when I try to think of connecting the blower to the 3/4 in pipe that will be used for my tuyere. I would like something cheap lol, but how do I get from the opening at the blower, down to 3/4 pipe?

    Hopefully this all makes sense, thank you for reading and adding your thoughts and comments to my blacksmithing endeavors! 

    P.S. don't mind my pose, my wife took the picture and I was goofing off for her. I didn't realize this would be the only picture I had on hand.



  10. After reading almost every post and getting so many different ideas on an anvil stand, I decided to go with a style copied from Essential Craftsman on YouTube, (and maybe some of you as well). I drilled four 1/2 in holes, took 1/2 in threaded rod, and two pieces of flat stock and bolted it all together. The stump is a little small, and I am also a little worried about it splitting, but I think it should work for my hobbying purposes. 


    I am also planning on cutting the excess threaded rod. One more thing, just to make you guys laugh, but I got the auger stuck two times. I had to take a crescent wrench and wiggle it back and forth for an hour on one side, and had to drill holes to loosen the bit on the other side where I got it stuck. Nothing is ever easy... 




  11. Thank you all so much for replying. Thomas, I agree that if it is a good anvil, it doesn’t matter who makes it!

    However, I want to know all I can about my anvil. I am hoping to get the AIA book in the future. I want to know what logo is on the side of my anvil, and what the U by the pritchel hole stands for. 

    I am so appreciative of all the time everyone has taken to look at and think over my anvil.

  12. I guess you are right. I tried taking a pencil and shading over it on a piece of paper, but it didn’t help much. It is just killing me not knowing what the logo is on the side of the anvil!!!

    I took another few pictures, and although the heel looks rough in some, it looks fairly smooth from the side.

    Anyways, thanks for taking time out of your days to help me in my obsession of identifying this anvil.




  13. It rings alright! I haven’t had time to actually do some work on it.

    Isn’t it rude to ask someone the price? Kind of like asking someone how much they get paid or asking a woman her weight and age? Lol.

    I got it for $800, so not horrible. The guy knew what it was worth. I also did what I think Thomas recommended and brought more money than he was selling it for, and got a nice post leg vise for $100, again not great, but he knew what it was worth.

  14. I just bought this anvil yesterday! I am very excited to start using it, and I want to know what kind of anvil it is. I have been reading and reading and reading these forums, and would love to know what it is. The seller said it is a 150 Fisher, but I have my doubts. The underside is concave in an oval shape. I don’t have the Anvils in America book, but it is on my list.


    Thank you,






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