mabaile2

So over the weekend I tried .025, .030, and .035 tips and varying lengths on all of them and the results didn't change. Burns alright outside of the forge but when it gets inside they all have the same flickering or pulsing problem. How can I either get the gas leaner or get more fuel in there?

.0300 mig tips and I think the one in currently is full length. I tried a few different lengths but all had the same results except one super short one had an issue with the flame backing up into the T even when I was igniting it at the bottom in the forge. So if it's running way to rich could that mean while in the forge it's putting out to much gas and it doesn't disperse as quickly and that's what's causing the flickering flame? What should I try to get it to run leaner? Also it is in fact hard firebrick, it was only $4/brick at tractor supply so for getting started it was to hard to turn down. I do have plans to eventually build a larger forge, possibly two burner, that will have IFB top, sides, and back with the bottom being hard firebrick with refractory cement mortar just so the bottom will hold up to metal hitting it and all better.

Video outside the forge, sorry it's dark but gotta love this time of year.

Oh it's for sure been me taking my time since between the burner and forge I've been building and tweaking for a week. I want to get going since I have a temporary anvil stand-in, tongs, metal, and hammer ready and waiting but I want to get it right before I start. The initial design of the forge was only two 4.5" firebricks and it was centered on the rear brick so about 6"-7" from the opening. That distance hasn't changed I simply added a new brick to the top and moved that rear brick to the center so now it's sitting 6"-7" from front and back vs 6"-7" from the front and right against the back wall. Obviously I don't know a lot about this kind of thing so any and all suggestions are great but my initial thought was for whatever reason the new internal size was causing gasses to build and swirl inside. When I get home today I think I'm going to try and take a brick out of the top and see if that does anything and then from there based on what I get I'll start the ol trail and error method. It may be a bit different but I work on electronics for a living and there's a whole lot of testing different parts and methods so the idea of one change causing ten problems is something I'm for sure used to. If you think of any other pictures, videos, etc that would help let me know and I'll do my best to get them added. I'll also get video of it running out of the forge posted tonight.

Yeah I followed a video that sounds like it made a couple changes. When I get off work I'll look up your original and go based on that. What gets me is that I didn't change anything but I actually had it burning good last week. I don't have a video but I have some pics of it running and the brick right after shutting it off, only changes since then are I elongated the forge by 4.5" inches and moved the burner towards center vs the back. Based on what you're saying it sounds like the few inches I moved the burner forward are causing it to be pulled a little.

1x1x3/4 Tee 3/4 x 6 Nipple 3/4 Merchant Coupler 3/8 Flare x 1/4 MPT 1/4 Flare x 1/8 MPT Union 1/4 Flare Swivel 1/4 Flare x 1/4 FPT Elbow Mig Tip (0.030) 1x3/4 Reducer (optional) Forge dimensions, for inside area, should be 13"x7" with the burner centered. I'll get a picture of it going outside when I get off work this evening.

I built a T-Burner for my first forge I built. The first night I had a rough forge made and the burner built I put them together and ran it for like 10 minutes no problem. It still runs great with a reducer outside of the forge but once I put the coupler on, or the reducer for that matter, and put it in the forge it sputters. The coupler and reducer are flame holders and I don't see it being a fuel delivery issue since outside of the forge it has no issues whatsoever. The regulator I have is 30 PSI adjustable and I was testing from 5-15 PSI with no luck at any area, also it worked perfectly fine a couple days ago in the forge and the only change since then is I added an extra brick to the top so I could better center the burner. I have tried lighting papper or holding a lit torch in there and it still goes out on both. As far as heat when I had it going before it took about 1-2 minutes to get the brick glowing inside and the flame it self was getting metal glowing very quickly. The burner should be the Frosty T design. As far as alignment if I look down the tube it looks dead on and I've tried a wide range of mig tip lengths in it ranging from full length all the way down to short enough it starts igniting at the T. Here's a video of what it does in the forge.