Jump to content
I Forge Iron

4447

Members
  • Posts

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 4447

  1. For sure, my 2-brick forge was quite rudimentary, just some wire mesh, angle iron and all-thread holding everything together. However the bricks began to crack quite badly starting even from the first firing. The wire mesh helped hold them together but not forever. The forge also has very thin sidewalls and as such has not been particularly efficient, I generally run my small 30k burner at 20psi to get a workable forge temp, anything lower than that generally doesn't get hot enough and causes the burner to stutter. Finally the form factor of the opening is very restrictive for anything other than bladesmithing and the softness of the firebrick means that the bottom of the opening of my forge is almost completely worn through after not too much use.
  2. Should I point the burner sideways through the chamber, or upwards against one of the side walls?
  3. I've used plenty of pop rivets, used to do a lot of sheet metal work back in high school, we always did aluminum rivets and they were a pain to do by hand without a pneumatic gun. I'd imagine that steel rivets would be harder to do
  4. There are two layers of kaowool, each 1", the sheet metal is represented with a line not a section, and yes the opening is 7" That's a good idea, though popping steel rivets sounds like a chore..., I was actually considering sheet metal screws
  5. Would Satanite do the trick or would I need something else?
  6. Yeah, my bad, I will be doing mostly small stuff, knives, tools, household implements, and decorative items. I have never forge welded before (crappy 2-brick forge) so I don't really know how much/what I will be using for that That is 2 1-inch layers of blanket, except for on the bottom where there is 2.5" of firebrick and only one layer of blanket. I don't know what armouring is or how I would do it The burner specs say it should produce up to 160k BTU which should mean that I'm good to above 320in^3. Current design is around 250in^3 so I should be good there. And yes, I will be using some spare firebrick to cover the ends. Probably covered with a layer of satanite
  7. Soft firebrick. I will be doing all kinds of forging. I do eventually want to get into bladesmithing but for now I've just mainly been making smithing tools. I also want to start making just generic tools/household implements
  8. Hello everyone, I am currently using a 2 brick forge which, while it has served me well is starting to feel cramped and is falling apart rather quickly. This has led me to design a new, larger forge, I have attached a rough schematic in a picture. The kaowool would be rigidized, and covered in satanite. I will be using a JF#1 burner off eBay. Any tips/recommendations as to how I could lay the forge out better would be great. Though I don't have access to a welder or heavy cutting tools so I would rather construct the shell out of sheet metal and bolts rather than go with an old tank shell
  9. This is what I have just done. I went to a local shop and got a reasonable deal on getting the pieces welded together. Not as good as your friend, but not either. Now I'm going to start working on the stand while I wait for the steel back from the shop. I'm thinking about going with a block of 4x4s with the steel mounted similar to how Frazer showed earlier. Thanks for all the help guys
  10. That seems like a good idea to keep them together, though I am really liking the stand idea that Frazer posted above. I will probably end up doing some combination of both. You think it will be too light? The steel itself weighs almost a hundred pounds. Plus the base I don't think I should have a problem with it moving. I had an older anvil that was only maybe 10lbs of steel plus 60lbs of concrete that wouldn't walk at all (although the steel did jump around a bit)
  11. Would the wooden structure provide enough clamping force to prevent the two pieces from moving relative to one another while forging or would I still need to epoxy them together to hold them in place?
  12. So I recently acquired two sections cut from forklift tines to use as an anvil. As the cross sections are quite small I have been considering joining the two sections to give me a 3"x4.75" anvil face as opposed to a 1.5"x4.75" face. I made a post about this earlier and people recommended either welding or bolting the two sections together. However I don't have access to a welder like I thought I would have and one of the sections is proving too hard for me to drill into. My original plan was to just sink them into a bucket filled with concrete while clamped together and hope that they stick together well enough as the concrete hardens. My other idea was to score up the inside faces of both of these with my grinder and then glue/fill the gap between them with epoxy or JBWeld before building a wooden housing around the post that would provide additional clamping force and elevate/balance the post. Looking for any suggestions you guys have as I don't really know what I'm doing and have minimal experience doing heavy metalwork/concrete work (Picture of the sections attached)
×
×
  • Create New...