Adamsnj112

Mike, the forge body started as a old small water tank so I modified it to be only one burner with the modified cone also the burner is at and angle now, the flame is much better and there’s some swirl now but there is still about 5in of flame coming out. This thing can simply not get enough air in my tinkering I tried adding one air via a rigged up pressure regulator and airline, and wow what a difference that flame got much hotter with a strong blue color and no more blowing out the side! so I talked to devil forge and their Venturi burners and forced air burners are essentially the same body with a modified inlet side. So this weekend I will be tinkering with compressed air as well as a small blower I have laying around that I need a rheostat for speed control. I’ll report back after some more tinkering and update with a bunch of pictures of where things currently stand and with air modification

Mikey, the forge measures about 8.5” diameter and 20” long with the ceramic plate just below centerline

Frosty, here’s some quick measurements of the 1” burner so with the small mig tip it should be ok?or should I trim the tube back this might be tricky since the gas tube is tack welded at either end, some careful cutting and grinding now back to original issue of excess flames, will creating a proper neutral flame take care of this issue, or am I fighting a reducing flame and too small

Mikey for the mig tip, the gas tube that’s in there is only .400” dia stainless tube, the threads on a mig tip (on my welder at least) are .29” long. I don’t see this working to well without cutting out that tube and replacing it with a bigger one. another question, I looked though the burner to forge thread and was wondering if this forge is simply too small for 2 1” burners, I saw 350cuin was kinda the golden rule for 3/4” burners

I have a friend looking into machining some nozzles, should I look into making these forced air? What’s my next step

That video is rather outdated but as you can tell from my experience the flame is maxed out at reducing, will any amount of nozzle rework be able to save this?

Side note I was sent this video by devil forge of how to tune their burners.

Ok so with the little time I had today I think I made progress? Really not sure. I did contact the manufacturer, they said these burners need to run at 14-17psi and the choke should be about 8mm open.... clearly that last part is wrong. So the nozzle is at just under 1.75” ID at the large end, the taper is over about 1.5” long and starting at 1.3” The first burner pic is the reshaped nozzle with choke wide open and the second is the stock nozzle run at manufacturer specs

I’m going to try reshaping the cone some more tonight, my anvil has a stout horn so it’s kinda tricky for the 1:12 ratio is that 1” increase over 12” for radius or diameter my sketch there is 1” increase over 12” on the radius

Frosty thanks alot sorry this whole thing has become frustrating and I’m normally a very good problem solver but this is like a foreign language to me for some reason

Is this just bad forge design with the burners on top? Like I said earlier when I ran it without insulation around the burner the nozzles got red hot in under a minute, the flame almost comes out hits the bottom ceramic plate and shoots either right back or out the doors

Mikey, I drew out a 1:12 taper as a reference and will try to get my reworked bell to match

Frosty, 1”ID sorry see pic below I reshaped the one cone to be more cone like. I did a quick test burn at 10psi 1st pic is reshaped cone second is stock bell as for the top down vs a side burner I was thinking that, I may get some bungs and try welding them in would 45 deg or horizontal be better?

So with the insulation removed around the burner and the burners about an inch into the mat, the nozzle got red hot in seconds also here’s some more pics of the forge setup the burner tubes are about 1.3” and the bell is 2” at the end of the flare, the burner holes are 2”

I will try this out tomorrow and post some more pics

Mikey I’m a little confused now, wouldn’t a reducing flame be more controlled from the choke (limiting air) than from the nozzle? how does the nozzle control how much oxygen is being combusted?

Mikey, thanks, is what I have referred to as a loose flame? That lighter blue should be more cone shaped correct?

Here’s the burners running outside the forge

I don’t think heat escaping and coming up the sides is a burner issue, heat rises and the heat is going to escape through any opening there’s also a problem sometimes where the back burner (left in pics) will flutter

With those open heat would come up the sides of the burners

So even when I open them there’s lot much change. Maybe even a little more flame if your referring to the firebrick doors, there’s not much difference with them off, they really help stop the flame from going straight up i I’ll get a pic with both these changes and have it up soon Here’s chokes fully open and no doors

Hello all, new here and looking for some help, a friend and I built a dual burner Venturi propane forge. We are having a problem no matter how low of psi we are getting a ton of excess blue flame. here’s some specs approximately 680cuin inside is lined with 2” of mat with rigidizer and refractory dual devil forge burners 20lb propane tank with regulator(kept in warm water) each end has about a 8”x4” opening with firebrick as doors in the two pics the regulator is at 5psi and 10psi, with the chokes open about 3/16” All advice appreciated