Firestorm102389

Oh, sorry frosty I didn’t have pictures of the t’s I made. I went with your traditional one, not the cross as pictured above, lol. Sorry if I’m confusing you. I will have to take some pictures of the ones I was talking about.

All good frosty. I looked up some stuff on the t burner and on here. , the t burner I made only has a bell reducer on the flame portion. I used the 1”x1”x3/4 T connected to 8” pipe nipple and the bell reducer and .030 mig tip. I put 6”, 8”, and 10” with the .035 and .030 contact tip and the best flame comes from .030 from 5 psi to 15. If I go above 15 I’d need the .035 I found at least for where I live that’s what I got running the best. I’m judging the flame as best I can based off when I used torches to cut steel with, but these are much bigger that a torch tip, but I know its running good.

I have not gotten the book, but I very well might at some point. I made 2 t burners for now, and figure I can play around with the others because these work quite well. I can always swap burners if I make a really nice one to change out. however, I did have to remake one of my t burners as the hole wasn’t completely straight. Ever so slightly crooked and didn’t perform as well as my other one. So I did that today and both work great, but I did have to use an 8” pipe nipple instead of 6” and a .030 instead of .035. Those changes is what gave me a nice clean blue/blueish white flame with very little orange. It performed well all the way from maybe 4 psi up to 15 maybe even 20, got a fair amount more orange on the outside of the flame after that. But all in all, I’d say they work well enough for me for now. I did the math on the propane tank I’ll be using to make the forge, and 2) 3/4” burners is what I’ll need. Figuring how much cubic inches after I added the ceramic blanket and the refractory 1/4” layer all around with 2 fire bricks at the bottom, I’m looking at probably 600 cubic inches interior. I’m havinga front door as well with a smaller opening on the door and I’ll be able to block off the rear and part of the front openings with fire brick if need be. the big door I’m putting on the front is more for future maintenance. It would be a lot easier to redo the lining and stuff with full access. Once I actually start going on it, I’ll start taking pictures and make a new thread with the build. im definitely a novice, but with what I’ve learned in college, here, my career, I feel pretty confident about this build. I think the only thing I don’t have in the plan is itc 100, but I saw something about a kiln wash I think it was A mix of sand and clay to put on last over everything else.

You wouldn’t have another video showing your updates by chance would you? Haha. so instead of 4 openings like your video, I should use 3 slightly larger openings with top and bottom knife edges filed from the outside instead of the lower ones filed inward? As far as the contact tip, is that 1/4 or 3/8 from lower knife edges, or recessed in the top before the first upper knife edges? 9x 3/4 would be 6-3/4, and that’s not overall length but rather after the lower knife edges, correct? So the overall length of just the tube would be the 6-1/2 mixing tube length, plus what I need for the air openings and the threads on top for the cap. That just leads me to one important thing then. What are the dimensions of the 3 air inlets then? You had the 4 in the video, so if I’m going to go with your better improved one of 3 openings, how wide and long are you making them? (guess I’m assuming you mean the lower knife edges when saying forward btw?) im really glad you’re on here and I can learn from you what has worked, I want to thank you for everything in advance I know I really appreciate it and I’m sure any other new novice blacksmiths, like myself, will appreciate it as well. I love building things and this is going to be a great project. one other thing I couldn’t find anywhere, I was looking at this style vs the t-rex style, I noticed the big difference to my inexperience, is just they have a funnel before the mixing tube. Is there any reason they add that if yours works great?

is that you Mikey? Cuz that is what I really really want. Love the sleek design, and I’m fully capable of doing the work to actually make it, my only problem is I don’t know the length of the whole 3/4” tube. Looks to be maybe 1/8” thick?

Yeah I gotta clean my shop up. I also just made a couple t burners like frostys, and I gotta say, I think I like them more than what I posted pictures of. They’re simple, and they work better than the ones I made initially, mainly because the tubes that hold the contact tip in my first ones has a little movement, and the t burners how frosty does them, the tip will stay in the center much easier. frosty, what ratios are you referring to? The sizes of the tubes and reducer bells and such? I tried looking up all that many different places, I think I had them right but I could be wrong. First ones I used a 3/4 pipe at 8” with a 1” bell reducer at the end and a 1” bell on the top with the cross fitting. the ones I just put together in my garage today I used 1” T reducer to 3/4” pipe to 1” bell reducer on the end. Am I supposed to use 1-1/4” reducer T to 3/4”? as far as understanding how the burners work, I understand how a carburetor works and that’s based on the Venturi. I had a pneumatics class in college for understanding brake lines and caliper piston travel. Based on the carburetor, and the pneumatics class with sizes of tubes and how it effects the flow and force along with carb air fuel mixtures, I’m using the same principles as I believe they apply very similarily

Yeah I’d love to make one! I think I’m gonna experiment a little bit. So far I have stuff to build a traditional t burner, but right now I went with these, I figure it’s just another variation of the t burner but I can control the depth of the mig tip. Still gonna play around with the lengths of pipe, and I’m also going to be adding plates over the air ports for control. I wanted a cross that had (1) 3/4 port but couldn’t find one so I had to use a small threaded nipple and reducer. i like the control I have to lower or raise the tip to find a sweet spot also. It’s not consistently smooth all of the time, not sure why, but it is most of the time. Maybe I should swap out my .030 tip with the .023 And the .035 to see the difference. No wind in the garage, I didn’t run it for to long because of carbon monoxide, but I just wanted to see it work and tinker for a few minutes.

I did, start there, there’s 93 pages so I’m taking it in sections, you’ll have to excuse my adhd. however, I did not know they were called Mikey burners, so that lends a hand to me to look up things further. He actually has a modified one he explains in a YouTube video. I think What I’m going to do is just make a modified sidearm set of burners to start, just because I can whip them up quick, and the modified Mikey burner is gonna be a bit longer and I’m gonna wanna experiment a bit I’m sure. love the information on here, once I get things going, I’ll update

So I’ve been looking up a lot of Venturi style burners, and I came along an interesting one where the gas injection is up above the air inlet. I saw this one: however, with these style, which I really love the air adjustment and overall look and how stupid easy it would be to make, it’s missing the flare on the upper portion. Could I get some insight from some experienced members on something like this? im new to the forum, so hi btw. 7 year professional welder here, just looking to get into forging to try it out and I love making stuff. Working on my first forge, got the whole thing planned out how I wanted it based on stuff I found in here and elsewhere using a 20# propane tank. Decided 2 burners, however I just didn’t know what style to go with and these seem to be the least headache , I hate messing with fittings and adapters. These seem to be easy enough to make and set up for whatever fittings I want. it’s similar to the T. rex burner except that Bell before the Venturi is missing. I’m thinking of it more like a carburetor and feel it should have one but if it can work really well without, I’d be interesting in hearing input. thanks in advance.

What brass fitting is that you have in there? Everywhere I’ve seen, they have a million brass fittings together to get it all hooked up. I’d much rather have 1 fitting like you have...