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I Forge Iron

TadGhostal

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    : Mint Hill, NC

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  1. This is actually my first forge. I'm looking to take classes, but so far I've been reading and hammering railroad spike knives and making tongs. Early days, early days.
  2. Thanks for the interest! Ultimately it worked out really well - way better than I expected it to. I ended up with 3 90-degree bends, with a stationary mixer made out of some thin 2x6 sheet metal and inserted into the top highest straight horizontal pipe. I cut and bent it so that the first 3 inches cause the gas/air mix to swirl clockwise, and the second 3 inches counter-clockwise. There may be better designs, but I based on what I've seen this one seemed like it'd do what I needed, and it seems to have made a difference in that the flame is more even, and more stable across a range of adjustments. I probably went overkill on some things, because I start up with the gas needle valve opened only 1 turn and the air valve 1.5 turns. Once it heats up I can turn the gas down to 1/4 turn open and the air down to one turn. So both end up operating barely open at all. I get up to forging temperature very easily, and could go higher with no trouble. I cranked it up and using an IR gun it hit 2K way faster than I'd expected. When it's running well and everything's up to heat, you can't even see the flame. As with several other folks here, once mine is in use for about an hour, It'll do a weird backfire like thing - not quite a pop, and not quite a "woosh", but somewhere in between. When this happens, you get a change in tone, kind of a resonating hum. I'm pretty sure this is from pre-ignition in the burner box itself. Evidence supporting this is: - burner and feed pipe increase in temperature (normally the burner only gets about 120 F - feels like a hot cup of coffee, and the pipe even just above it feels near room temp) - turning the air way up or the gas way down makes it stop I've gotten things adjusted now to the point where it either doesn't happen, or, if it does, I can get rid of it quick. Once it happens once, it doesn't happen a second time after adjusting. Overall, I'm very happy with this burner. I can't see that it's more efficient, but it's definitely at least as efficient as an NA burner, if you ignore the fact that you need powered air The only thing I'd change is that I would have maybe made it a little smaller for the forge It's in. I did try plugging some holes with kaowool, but that's where the "backfire thing" is even worse, adding to the suspicion that it's pre-ignition. I kinda glazed over some of the details, in both pictures and text, but only because the thread was really about the ribbon burner itself and not the forge. If you'd like more info on either, I'd be happy to share my very limited experience and what worked for me - just pm me.
  3. I finally got everything hooked up to my ribbon burner to test it. One important thing - I forgot to use any kind of mold release when casting the KOL 30 in my wooden frame. I thought I would have a hard time getting it off, but NO - based on how everything literally just fell off (the bottom needed a little persuasion, but only because it held the straws - I'm going to go as far as saying you don't need any kind of mold release. Even the straws came out with a gentle pull from needle-nose pliers. The pics are just proof-of-concept that it actually burns. As they show, a few holes have the flame touching. There is currently no mixer other than the T and 2 90 degree elbows. I don't think the T is quite 18" away from the plenum, so it may be a mixing problem. I may put something twisty in the pipe to see if I can get a better mix - thinking maybe a piece of expanded metal, maybe 6 inches long, twisted one way, then the other (halfway). Any and all suggestions, criticisms, and comments are welcome, please!
  4. I get it, I just don't understand it. No one will complain about using the word "xxxx", which, if you do a search, is all over this forum, and defined by any dictionary as a curse word (in it's usage, except in one case where it's a mis-spelling of the word dam). BUT, the word "xxxx" gets you flagged? Don't get me wrong - I know how to follow rules, and I'm not some kid (I have grandchildren), but the rules (at least the ones about what is and isn't profanity) are not very clear - and definitely not clear in such a way as to lead someone to understand that they can say xxxx all day long, but not xxxx. Just saying - if people are expected to follow rules that specific, they should be able to see those specific rules.
  5. Good point, but I'm going to *hope* it was an automatic thing, and that no one reported me for using the word "scrap" (remove the s).
  6. The word "scrap" (remove the s) is considered inappropriate? Strictest language filter I've ever seen. Anyway, point is, I forgot to use a mold release. Removing this will be fun.
  7. So... End caps welded on with no leaks - check (thanks to invaluable help from EVERYONE on this thread.) Hole pattern figured out - check Castable mold built, with holes and straws - check Refractory poured and plenum set - check Mold release/vasoline/crisco smeared into mold and on straws -... um, wait. xxxx
  8. Ok, got my LGBT welder finally. Maybe now my kids will quit calling me insensitive. geez. (backs away slowly)
  9. Ahh, I just got the "tombstone" reference - I was wondering about that. The ones shaped like a tombstone (like the Lincoln ones I see). Good stuff.
  10. Thanks Deimos for all the great advice! This all started as a step in creating a shop where I could forge blades, after I got tired of woodworking a couple of years ago. I do have an auto-darkening helmet, and have been doing "gasless MIG" (FC), so I get what you're saying about the wire feed. I'm getting this unit because A) the one I've been using is 110V and I'm not happy with the performance, and B)I really want to learn stick welding. I never intended to learn welding beyond sticking some rebar on some stock to shove it into a forge, but I like making things, and welding is kinda fun. I first made a welding table as a learning project, then I made a 2x72 belt grinder because I could, and it was way cheaper than buying one. I've been using both for the last couple of months and they're working great so far. Now I'm working on the forge (specifically the ribbon burner, which led to the original post) - so, I agree with you 163% (that's 100% for you metric users) - this forum is ABSOLUTELY amazing. I'll even go as far as to say it's pretty much vital to me. I've been lurking and reading for about two months - there's so much info here. My head is about to explode. Funny you mentioned the gas for MIG - I have an aluminum CO2 tank that I used for carbonation 25 years ago. I just pulled it out last night and opened the valve (which was a little sticky). It still had full pressure! Still, I may be getting another tank. I also may need to do an Argon mix - I don't know. The gas stuff is something I have yet to learn about.
  11. It does help - I think all I've dealt with was inverter. The one coming tomorrow is a Chinese one that does MIG, FC, Lift TIG, and Stick. It's dual voltage - will do 200A on 220V (MIG). Should be enough. Now, if only I could just buy additional welding skills like that.
  12. If you're wrong, you can just hang on to the thanks - you'll earn it soon enough. BUT, The transformer thing makes sense - if you had 220V on the output, you'd not be able to have more than 50A output (on a 50 amp plug/breaker). At half the voltage, you'd be able to put out twice the current (roughly), and so on. So if we're putting out 230 amps AC, using a 50A plug, the voltage is definitely less (an I could even calculate it if I had the desire). I'm just a little embarrassed that it didn't occur to me, what with my 'letronics degree and all. Geez, I'm getting older and dumber. Maybe the metal filings from all my bead grinding are getting through my mask? That must be it. Deimos - same thing - thanks for the info. The NEMA plug shown is a 220V 50A max plug. That's why I was complaining about only having a 200A home service - I was thinking 1:1, like, 200A out meant 200A in, but you (and Frosty) are obviously right. I just hate I didn't realize/look it up.
  13. Didn't know about the drop in voltage on the output - that makes sense. That also explains why a 50 Amp welder is so much smaller - less transforming, smaller transformer. Once again, thanks!
  14. So, for instance - I see a Craftsman 230/140 DC/AC welder, $150. BUT, it has a NEMA 6-50 plug on it. What am I missing? The plug is for 50 amps, so how can the welder put out that kind of amperage?
  15. Sure I’ll look, but 110 euro? That’s a real find if it’s in good shape. I’ve not seen anything near that price. also there the fact that my entire house is on a 200A service. It’d take a LOT of flowers to convince the wifey that I need to shut off all power to the house so I can do some welding
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