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I Forge Iron

Jobtiel1

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Posts posted by Jobtiel1

  1. Osage Orange is a very good wood for an axe handle. Since you are making a splitter I would prefer it over hickory due to higher elasticity and shock absorption. Hickory is a good wood but if you use it make sure you thin it properly to really benefit from it's strength and not shock your wrists to death, commercial handles are way too thick. My favorite is ash due to it's availability in Europe, and due to it's lower hardness you can have slightly thicker handles and still have great elasticity and schock absorption. Another great option is Robinia pseudoacasia but I can't get my hands on it.

    All in all make sure you have a handle that will absorb the shock from the impact and not have your wrists absorb it. Thin it.

    ~Jobtiel

  2. Hi and welcome, 

    I can't post links due to forum rules, but try looking up smeedwinkel and 123smeden. also Angele forge in Germany might have some stuff for you. I would also consider a solid fuel forge with coal or charcoal. For me that is cheaper than a gas forge to operate, you'd have to find out how it works out for you. Good luck and if you have questions don't hesitate to ask.

    ~Jobtiel

  3. If you decide to sell them, there's good money in those planes. I don't know how familiar you are with pricing in your area but don't allow yourself to be ripped off, plane prices have risen considerably, and yours are looking like older models so there might be collector value as well. Especially the low knobs are popular, and the scrub (#40) is quite rare.

    Good luck with them and they're looking like amazing users, you can still decide to make some custom furniture with forged ironwork.

    ~Jobtiel

  4. Welkom op het forum!

    If you add your location to your profile it's easier for us to remember after leaving this post.

    If you have spare steel do a test piece, do that first. Heat until it's non-magnetic, and then a little bit more, and quench in vegetable oil, if it doesn't harden then try quenching in water. When it still doesn't harden then the piece is probably not hardenable.

    Another option is to do a spark test but you'd have to grind material off to do that.

    For the final heat treat you should also normalize, there is plenty of info on the forum for proper procedures on that.

    ~Jobtiel

  5. 18 hours ago, Glenn said:

    Flashpoint means the temperature at which a liquid ignites without warning when in contact with air. 

    The flashpoint of a liquid is the temperature at which the liquid gives of sufficient vapor to form a combustible vapor/air mixture, it will not ignite without external ignition source at this temperature. What you are describing here is the auto-ignition temperature, which is the temperature at which a liquid will spontaneously ignite without external ignition source. This is quite cool to see, we did experiments to determine auto ignition temperature in the lab once and when you put something over to remove oxygen and kill the fire the liquid will ignite instantly again when you remove the cover. This is however not the case at the flash point.

    ~Jobtiel

     

  6. Etsy does take a significant cut on your gains, For a while I sold some axes on there, and I think Etsy takes about 10% of everything, and then taxes also apply. You do get a lot of benefit from it, but also a lot of competition. I also sold firestrikers for about 22.50 euros, It was a design no one else did on the site and not very easy to make and they sold quite well, but I also had the basic viking firestriker in stock which some companies sell for about 5 euros if not less, I didn't sell one of them at my price of 15 euros.

    I since quit since I hated having to make something to sell every time I light up the forge, I now only make my own stuff, gifts, and commissions for friends.

    ~Jobtiel

  7. Are you going for a triangle shaped eye? For a more general drop shaped axe eye I have set downs spaced about 2 cm aparts. Your poll looks very big compared to the "langettes". You have a picture of the finished axe?

    Furthermore, I recommend keeping your fuller square or stock on the anvil square to the edge to have the shoulder come out straighter.

    ~Jobtiel

  8. Make sure to grind the edge with more curvature towards the handle on the bottom part of the edge, this makes the axe carve better by making a more cutting motion opposed to chopping like a normal hatchet. Also think if you want an asymmetrical grind, I like them better for carving but that's my preference. It would make the hatchet either right or left handed though.

    ~Jobtiel

  9. I use coal as well, last I time I bought it it was 27.50 euros for a bag of 25 kg. I've seen online suppliers as well but I don't like paying for shipping, it's at least 20 euros. I don't really know the price for propane here but I remember when I checked it that it was quite a bit more expensive than coal.

    Shame that the Dutch coal mines closed a while ago and most English ones are depleted, I think almost all of it is imported which makes it more expensive too. The war in Ukraine also raised the price recently. I used to pay 22.50 for a bag of 25kg.

    ~Jobtiel

  10. I almost always start a new project with the tooling for that project. I have a lot of eye drifts and slot punches for making axes. And only one square drift for example. I haven't done many projects yet where I need that. 

    ~Jobtiel

  11. If you do use forged nails and clench them, make sure you do some test pieces with pre drilled hols of different sizes, square shank nails can act like wedges to split the wood. 

    On the chest I've used 6 small (2 cm) screws. They've hold up fine so far. I haven't picked up the chest much but it loaded pretty heavily and is heavy of itself, and haven't had any problems with the handles. 

    ~Jobtiel

  12. Thanks all, Billy, the axe eye is nice and straight but the slot for the wedge was cut at an angle so now it looks like the eye is not on center. I agree it looks nice.

    Frosty, I want to use this hatchet on camping trips to make spoons, other kitchen utensils and stuff like that, what you mentioned as axe carvings. I find the flat bevel on one side aids in cutting straight and the rounder bevel on the other side helps in the removal of the chips when carving. Unfortunately now it can't really be used for by left handed people. A lot of people also like straight bevels on both sides for carving.

    I've used a similar grind to this axe for limbing and splitting which works decently well. I haven't done any cabin building or the like so I don't know how useful an axe like this would be. I'd say it works best for smaller carving projects.

    ~Jobtiel

  13. I've lighted up the forge again after a while, and finished a new carving axe to take with me on camping trips. The handle I made from a piece of maple that has been drying for about 2 years now. Forge welded file for the bit and mild steel for the body. This time i upset the end of the bar first to have some more material for the axe blade. To challenge myself a bit more the only grinding I've done was on the edge, the rest is al forged to finish.

    IMG_20230111_193732.thumb.jpg.6c8349385668204cb4e502c578c7a2b0.jpg

    IMG_20230111_193914.thumb.jpg.33105f4350d24a6c79d48b75e6748b5f.jpg

    ~Jobtiel

     

  14. For normal resawing of smaller boards a normal 7 tpi rip saw will work just fine. Filing old saw blades from a mill for ripping is also not difficult, and with some practice, the teeth can be set with a hammer only. The question is, is all this worth 70 dollars to you? I know I'd rather spend the money to buy the blade than to go through the hassle, even with having all the tools and a little bit of skill for filing and setting saw teeth.

    Don't forget to buy saw files if you intend to do it yourself, normal triangle files are missing the teeth on the edges to properly form the gullets.

    ~Jobtiel

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