Badger411

Hi Miki, Copied from another post.... From Frosty The best cure method according to the maker is to treat it just like hydraulic concrete. It water SETS, it does NOT DRY. These are two entirely different things. Read up on working, and curing a patio or shop floor. Portland cement, concrete and Kastolite set and cure very closely to the same in time and steps. Kastolite refers to concrete procedures as THE way to cure Kastolite for maximum strength and temperature rating. Except for water % details the comparison is across the boards close enough to the same as to be interchangeable. So, when it sets close it up in a 100% humidity atmosphere for up to 7 days. We do NOT need a max strength cure, we aren't subjecting it to the kinds of forces temps and atmospheric changes a commercial forging or scrap furnace does. Frosty The Lucky. More from Frosty.. The cure procedure the maker recommends for Kastolite is 100% humidity @ 60 -100f. for up to 7 days for max strength and temp rating. I put mine in a plastic bag, dumped in about a gallon of water, twisty sealed it and left it for something like 24 - 36 hrs, I don't recall. It begins to set in about 30 minutes and finishes setting in an hour or so, then into a wet cure environment. Kastolite does NOT dry, it hydrates and sets the same way Portland cement concrete does and follows a cure so similar the maker uses it as the default cure method. Regards Dave

I'm sure I've read that after 2"-2.5" there are diminishing returns, so 2" is recommended. I've sent you a PM. ATB Dave

Thomas, Yes mounted on 2x3s and a magnet has deadened all ring. Johnny, Thanks for the reassurance.

Thank you both for your replies. JHCC, I looked at the dressing posts and have removed the sharp edges but will use it for a while before radiusing any edges. Thomas, I did a little pounding earlier. Made a start on my first pair of tongs. Regards Dave

I received my 45kg London pattern yesterday. After removing the paint I did a quick hammer and bearing test to find the area from about 1/2" horn side of hardy all the way to the heel isn't hardened. Using a file it is clear the the hardening isn't very deep on the corners or edges although they claim a 65 HRC to 16mm depth. I called them today and was told they do not harden these areas intentionally for safety/structural reasons and the softer areas/edges will not be an issue. I am a complete noob and this is my first Anvil. Can someone advise as to the validity of their claims or am I being fobbed off with a very expensive ASO? TIA Dave