ac160

Why did you go with a slotted bed over a solid bed? It has been interesting watching your progress.

Onetreeforge, it depends as the variables for brand/quality/whatever else would be the same as anything you might have for 240v. I have a 110v mig welder and it is great for thinner metal.

This past weekend I was able to get my post vise secured to a log, and now have to work on the block under the leg. Filled in the worn door latch by welding on the cattle trailer so it now closes tighter and doesn't rattle so much.

Check with your local welding supply store. They might be able to fix the regulators, or know of a place that can do it.

Frosty -- Thanks for the correction. I was thinking more along the lines of "Opaque" when I was writing it. Thomas --I should have been more specific. The blower is a hand crank royal western chief that was my great grandfather's. I will reduce it at the forge.

I have been digesting a multitude of JABOD threads and was considering building one to try out and wanted to run my idea by you all. I am looking for clarification on a few things as well. Basic info: I am looking for ease of setup/tear down and storage. Planning on using charcoal and/or trying corn. Has anyone tried corn in a JABOD? I am not sure about trying coal out yet. My air supply will be a canedy otto blower. On the tuyere should I was thinking a 1in pipe or should I downsize to 3/4 in.? With that blower would it be better to have a slightly bigger tuyere as to not restrict airflow or reduce from 3 in to a 1 in pipe? Does schedule 40 or 80 work better? It seems like it is a tossup from my reading on 40 or 80. I plan on having it a around 12 in or so from the outside of the container to minimize heat transfer. Also it sounds or looks like the tuyere needs to be located about a firebricks width above the bottom of the firepot, correct? Contents of the container will be made up of kitty litter and the firepot out of firebrick to easily change size. The firepot size will be about one firebrick. If I would use corn or coal would it need to be deeper? For the container holding it would it have to be a box? I was thinking about cutting a piece out of one of the two items that are attached. The center-auger (first picture)has about a 13 in diameter and I could cut it in half and add ends to it. In the picture labeled unloading(second picture) is about 8in deep and about 8.5 in wide. Either would need to be set on a table. I feel like I am forgetting something here, but not sure what. Thanks in advance for your help. I forgot to add the that most all my stock size would be around 1/2 in rod for learning with a max of 1in for experimenting if time allows.

ede, if you can budget for it go with the 100 amp service. As Thomas Powers said plan for the future. Not knowing your circumstances you might have a second person working in the shop as well sometime and need the extra. I know most welders I have dealt with require a 50 amp circuit when on 230V. Do you want an air compressor in your shop? Also, it will be a good selling point if you ever decide to sell.

I buy both cheap and good tools. It all depends on the use case for me and if I can find a good quality used version of a tool. Some cheap tools will surprise you as I bought a set of HF impact sockets for occasional use because they were cheaper than anywhere else. Oddly enough they provide a better fit than some of my older style craftsman non-impact sockets. I was kind of surprised at the comparison. My drill bits on the other hand are good quality and will outlast any HF bit.

Check craigslist or facebook marketplace as well. Most welders I see in your price range are the lincoln tombstone style arc welders. Occasionally mig might be there. Try auctions to find one as well.

The vise purchased is an older 5" FPU or fpu/bison. We have the 6" version of it in the farm's shop, and that would have been bought in the 1970s. It has been well used from bending metal or trying to loosen or drive out stuck bolts. It is still in pretty good shape.

My first vehicle was a 15+ yr old 3/4t Chevy that my Dad bought new. I still have the truck. To answer your question on tools, I was thinking more along the lines of chisels or other smaller hand held tools, maybe even a hammer if I would take a notion to try it. I am looking for a good postvise. Recently, I purchased a very good machinist vice that will get me started. Thanks for the info. That has cleared up a lot of my confusion.

I have been doing a lot of research on this site and trying to figure out what is the "most" recommended style of anvil for different uses. So far I have found that a thin waist style london pattern is good for ornamental work and a thicker waist is better for heavy work. It seems then that the colonial pattern would be really good for heavy work. Would it be correct to assume that face size makes a difference as well? Some research has shown weight makes a difference as well for the type of pattern and what you can do with it. Is that correct? My question is this what are the pros and cons of a german style anvil(two horn) vs a london pattern vs a colonial for various types of work? Examples of work: plowshares/old farm equipment, tool making, ornamental gates, knives, coat hooks, etc. Moderators, please remove if I have overstepped or in the wrong section, etc. Please correct me as well, I think I might be just confusing myself with information overload.

I have found a syringe works well. No needle of course.

I can't comment size of the propane tank, but the latest propane price for me was $1.25/gal delivered. I have 500 gal tank for the furnace in my house.

Do you have any pictures of your designs? I am just starting out and am going to try charcoal to see if I enjoy forging. I plan on trying corn out as a my alternative, since I have access to a bin full of corn.