LonelyIsle

No worries, probably would have cleared the confusion if I’d have taken a photo of the front of the forge ill be buying extra fittings once I finally get to town. Since the video didn’t work here are a couple stills to show the flame I had when I was testing. There was a slight obstruction to the flare that I’ve since fixed but I feel it may need to be tuned still.

I honestly do appreciate all the advice I've gotten from everyone on this site, especially the burner help Frosty. I apologize if I am coming across as argumentative or difficult but was just trying to explain what I was trying to say in my first post. You cannot see it in the picture but there is a ball valve on the back side of the piece of metal that is coming off the side of my stand(Where the rubber and copper meet). I only have one valve in the circuit and it goes Tank--Regulator--Rubber--Valve--Copper--Burner. There is something in the background that makes it appear like there is a valve on the burner but there is not. In the video I posted (which I'm not sure if it worked) I have the ball valve attached to the Burner but I was only doing that for a test. Thank you again for all the advice, I value the suggestions you have made I just didn't think I had relayed my information properly. I think I see what your saying about moving the valve back in the circuit but it is female female on the valve I just don't see How I can do it other than removing the ball valve from the circuit and going directly from rubber to copper. (Which come to think of it would probably work until I get my other piece) I live on a small Island and try to plan town trips once ever week or two, so as badly as I want to get it working this weekend I need to wait until sometime next week because I cannot justify the price of taking the ferry and going to town when I have to go on Tuesday anyways. I'm just annoyed with myself for forgetting something so small.

I don’t think I explained myself very well. Sorry for the confusion, I only had the ball valve on the burner during my test before I welded the stand together. You’ve explained to me the error of having too much junk on the burner somewhere earlier in this thread when I almost did just that lol. The ball valve is now mounted on the stand where the copper and rubber meet. What I need is the 3/8 male/male fitting from the flared end of my copper pipe to my ball valve.

Yes I did when I was mocking it up. I need to finish tuning it but didn’t realize I was 1 piece short until I went to hook it up with the copper. I’m just missing the Flare fitting so I can hook the ball valve to my copper. I shaped my Kastolite into my Burner Flare. IMG_3659.MOV Here is a vid of one of the test runs. At the time there was a little obstruction in the hole for the burner/flare but I believe I’ve fixed that part of it. I do believe it may need to be tuned a little better though still.

So I got the welding done and fitting everything up now I just gotta finish tuning the burner. Only problem is I live on a small island I’m missin the fitting from the ball valve to to the flare fitting. Just one more trip to town…

It is Kast-o-Lite 30 Mikey, I am going to be drilling the hole in the bottom then to save myself a step. Should I still hold off on the ITC until I’ve heated it up a little? Not firing in the oven gave me a chance to get my welding done and shell painted. The forge has a pipe in the bottom that slides into the stand. Tomorrow I am hoping to plumb up the burner and tune it. Still waiting on fire bricks for doors and a piece of kiln shelf but getting closer every day Maybe if I’m lucky I will have some hot metal to hit soon.

Thanks for the quick response and the ITC tips I am aware I could use the burner but was wary of cracking it by heating it up to quick. The instructions that came with it recommended a slow oven cure so that was my first thought. It’s already sat air drying for a few days since removing from the 100% moisture I had it in.

Well, it took much longer than I’d have hoped but I’m finally recovered enough to have gotten some work done on the Forge in the last little while. I ended up scrapping my last shell as I realized that I was gonna be getting pretty small once I added my kiln shelf in. So I used a 20lb propane bottle this time and changed my design slightly. I have used 2 1” layers of kaolwool and added A 1/2 inch of Kastolite 30 with maybe 1” in the floor. I’m powering it with one Frosty T burner that I will be tuning once I’ve oven fired the forge to get the rest of the moisture out. a couple of questions should I apply the ITC 100 before or after putting it in the oven? also I am planning on not making doors and using fire bricks to block my openings. Will hard fire bricks be sufficient or is there something else I should look for

I traced my hole using the piece of pipe and a sharpie. I then used a small 4.5 disc angle grinder with a cutting disc and cut a groove in about half depth on the inside of my mark (making sure to leave the marks on it so I dont go too big). Then I used the same grinder to cut my circle into pizza slices all the way through. Then used a hammer/pliers to wiggle them back and forth until they snapped off. Hope that helps. BTW everyone, ended up in the hospital for two weeks after 2/3 weeks of being unwell. Am recovering soon and have my reg now so I will hopefully have some fire to show you soon, depending on my health.

Sorry which are you referring to mikey, the forge stand is a BBQ roller that i cut the wheels off of.. the wooden workbench being built is mainly for assembly and whatnot

Yeah im still try to get everything in order.. by the time i get things going things will be alot tidier and safe, it would drive me nuts otherwise. Just some pics mid reno. I'm a carpenter by trade so it may not be long before I end up laying a floor. Projects on projects .... am hoping the reg doesn't take that long though.

Still waiting on amazon for my reg so been trying to get the shop ready. I cleared out a space for blacksmithing at my gfs uncle down the street that was just piled with junk. Almost a usable space once I finish a little workbench, anvil stand and a few other projects. Hoping it doesn't take too long but if it does I mau get my 72x2 grinder finished. It may not look like too much but its a far cry from what it was. The video is the before the before can be seen https://youtu.be/YAKDyOTknLc

All done with the files.. waiting on parts still for the forge. On the top, to the left of the hop no 9 are black diamond, Nicholson to the right, assorted makes on the next too rungs cos, stokes bros, globe, zenith,Belmont bros

I hit most of them with some WD, then into a cleaning vinegar bath, then neutralized in water baking soda, just letting them dry before i give em another oil coat to stop rust

Most of them appear to be pretty good, some are mint while maybe 2-3 are significantly scarred. There are a few broken ones I may turn into handle fit files but their should be a few scrap. Thanks for the tip ThomasPowers, was looking them up last night and couldn't see anything. Most of these were wrapped in a newspaper from 1966