pike3e

If it is really 02, I believe that it is rare enough in the states that damascus makers may pay a premium for it. You could probably sell it, purchase another grade of tool steel that is also appropriate and still have money left.

Another idea is to consider the combo of a hammer and a press. I have a 55 lb striker hammer and a press and have worked W2 tool steel that was 2 5/8 inch by 11 inches into barstock that was .25 by 1.5. I could be wrong but I think that could be pretty difficult on even a 100 lb hammer. Although Ric Furrer did a video of how he did it on a 300 lb hammer and that was alot faster than I could work it with my equipment. As to damascus making, I use the press to set the weld and to do alot of the drawing out process and dont move to the hammer until the stock is about .75 to 1 inch thick.

First try with a straight was today. Not bad but definitely some blood. I am sure I will get the hang of it soon.

a Porta band saw should do the trick. You would need a way to get power such as a small generator or they make them that use a rechargable battery pack? Then the work begins of forging into barstock.

Start with a billet three times your final desired thickness. Drill holes about 1/3 the thickness of the billet on each side. then forge the billet down to your desired thickness and you should have a birdseye pattern.

I have there economy model and really like it. I accidently left the steel in too long and too hot and burned up a thick piece of tool steel. First time that has happened to me in a gasser.

I prefer a blown vertical propane forge for welding damascus. It gets plenty hot enough, atmosphere can be easily controlled and the flux drips off the billet all the way to the bottom of the forge and out of the way. I prefer a horizontal forge for general forging so that everything does not need a handle.

Where in Maine are you? I am in Bangor.

With some lump charcoal that would be one hell of a steak searing setup.

that is the real issue with using a drill press for a mill, the chuck will fall out and when it does it is often still spinning pretty fast and can cause damage. I was given the same precautions about a drill press not working well as a mill and I figured I would just go slow and that it would at least be better than cutting slots with a jewelers saw. Well about five minutes into my first cut the chuck was on the floor.

Got this one from this site For all of your days be prepared, And meet them ever alike. When you are the anvil, bear - When you are the hammer, strike. Edwin Markham

Great knife. With W2, do you have a hard time not clay coating the blade for HT knowing that a great hamon is just waiting to come out? I know I do . I usually have a plan for a plain blade and at the last minute wip out the satinite, adding numerous hours to the finishing.

Me too. Starts the coal fire very quick.

Does anyone have any info of parts are available for these hammers through a dealer or the factory?

I am considering purchasing a used striker hammer. I read a thread a while ago about the American importer going out of business. If I were to break something or have parts wear out, is there a source for these and or customer service? Thanks John

I ordered one yesterday and am looking forward to receiving it.

Wes, Forge to shape without much regard for forging temp Normalize in heat treat oven at 1550, 1525 and 1500 for each step and allow to air cool Heat to 1500, soak for 10 minutes and quench in parks 50 oil Temper 2 times at 425 for two hours each In a cake pan with water, keep the lower 1/3 of the blade in the water and heat the spine with a regular propane torch as hot as you can get it evenly(it is hard for me to get it much past blue due to the heat sink of the water but I do rock the 1/3 in and out of the water to get it hotter) Make a thin flat grind and then covex the edge on a slack belt. Thanks john

Thomas, In addition, the time and energy it would take to find a vise for even half the price would probably be worth WAY more than forty bucks. The above post makes a good point about having 12 vises and not willing to pay a certain price for number 13. Like in your reply regarding the price you would pay for gas. In general nobody would pay 100 for a gallon of gas, but we would if that was the price and you needed to get to the ER or to a family wedding or such. Indiviual perspective and circumstance are important.

I picked a few of those up and made blades with them. I was able to make a blade that was able to pass the equivalent of the abs performance test (cut one inch sisal rope, chop 2 2x4's and still shave, then bend to 90 degrees. I am not going to guess what it is but it seems to make a decent blade steel. On a side note, I was not able to get a hamon to form, even with a water quench.

I was at a hammer in and Rob Hudson passed around a ball pein hammer that he had forged the pein into a bowie blade. It did not have much of a function but it was pretty cool.

Yesterday I made the weld. I welded two 1x1x3 inch bars to a 1x2x3 inch bar of w's damascus. I cut a slice off and started forging a blade and the welds failed. Back into the forge with the billet and I let it soak at high heat for awhile and did some more squeezing with the press. I cut a slice off today and forged a small EDC type blade. All appears well but I have not done the heat treat. I will try to post pics next week when I get back out to the shop to finish the blade. Thanks for the tips. John

I am thinking forge welding a chunk of mild steel to one of my damascus billets in order to act as the tang portion on some full tang knives. I have never welded mild steel, only high carbon. Any tips, tricks or things to watch for? Thanks John

I was freezing up my grill sized tank in fifteen minutes with a forced air blower at welding heat. I put the tank in a tub of water and it will not freeze up and I can use it until it is almost completely empty.

http://www.riversidemachine.net/item15873.ctlg Here is the link but the pic is small

Does anyone have any experiance with this forge. I am looking for a welding forge and was wondering if anyone had any input. Thanks John