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I Forge Iron

Arby

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central Ohio
  • Interests
    Woodworking, knife making, guns, buckskinning {primative camping} history & learning new things

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  1. Thanks for the prompt replies guys. Yes, the large machines are not forgiving of not paying attention or trying to force things. I've read good advice about using worn belts that applies to just about any dull tool. It will hurt you a lot faster than a sharp one! I have the expertise to build a grinder as having built welding fixtures in past life but trying to stay as low cost as possible due to having bought some expensive woodworking stuff lately. I just missed a used Grizzly missing a few parts due to bidding too low, lesson learned. That is a good looking grinder. Is it set up to pivot? How expensive are we talking for one like that?
  2. Hello to all the very knowledgeable folks on this forum. I have read hundreds of posts in many different sections of this forum and have tried very hard to research an answer to the following question. I have been making a few knives by repurposing material from old farm tools such as corn cutter blades, sheep shears and other blades used around farms. I use a plasma cutter to cut the blanks to preserve the initial hardness properties. This has worked very well so far and I am considering building or buying a 2 x 72 grinder to speed up my finishing. I usually do not remove all the old forging marks or trade marks as i would like people to appreciate the history of the steel. My question is what safety measures are considered "common sense" when using a grinder to shape blades? Mainly grind edge up or down? I would think edge down to keep blade from cutting belt but have read references to grinding with the edge up. I have lots of experience ( 50 plus years in manufacturing} using industrial type equipment such as saws, small & large drill presses, machine tools, filing machines and large belt grinders. I have used the grinders but not to specifically shape blades. I now use belt sanders and a 1 x 42 sander/grinder to rough grind and then finish with files and sandpaper. My wife is very concerned about my safety after seeing a show where a knifemaker was seriously hurt using one. Thank you in advance for any info or experiences you are willing to share, Arby
  3. Try Homer Dangler's browning solution available from the Log Cabin Shop in Lodi, Ohio or online. I have used this for several years refurbishing some hawks and primitive style "period" knives. Apply twice a day for a week with light buffing with grey scotchbrite between coats then clean with soap & water to stop action. A little oil or wax and you have a good looking, durable finish. This is the best solution I have used of many brands tried.
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