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I Forge Iron

Gee

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Everything posted by Gee

  1. I wouldn’t use regular plywood. It is highly porous and therefore Kas o lite will adhere to it. I used sheet metal duct for mine. Purchase a 7” round tube for $6. Shaped it how I wanted it. It worked great. With a little pulling it came out nice with no sticking to the Kast o Lite....
  2. I used a ceramic 2” blanket. Covered that with Kast o Lite using a form I made. It worked great. Final step is to apply my kiln wash. In this case I am using Plistix. Haven’t gotten that far but almost there. If you are using Kast o Lite over the cearamic wool, then this would be considered ‘ridgidizing’ from my understanding. Ridgidizing is the process of encapsulating the blanket to hold it in place and from falling apart. If I am amiss, someone please correct me about ridgidizing. See attached pics of my forge. -Gee
  3. Absolutely. I can’t wait to get to making some stuff myself.
  4. Thanks Frosty. As you have been told before...thank you for your expertise in teaching and helping all the rest of us!
  5. Hey guys, Thank you for the detailed information here. Can you direct me on how wet the blanket should be before applying the Kast o lite? Soaking wet! Top layer wet? Moist all the way through? Thanks.
  6. Frosty, I haven’t applied the Kast o Lite yet. Will I have issues removing the form? I can cut it out...it’s just HVAC vent piping. Wondering if I will have problems ruining the Kast o Lite application if I do it this way....
  7. Is it a bad idea to use a form when applying Kast o lite to my insulation? I am going for a 1/2 thick layer. Thoughts? Experience?
  8. Frosty, Sorry about the camera shots. I did not change the settings. I used my phone to take the pics and it adjusts itself based on the lighting. I'll try to do a better job next time. As for the insulation...what are you referring to when you say to "butter" it with water? What is that process exactly? What should I be looking for? Just moistening the insulation? Please elaborate if you would. Point taken on the burners...I'll tune them up in the forge when I am ready.
  9. Working on my burners. How does the flame look? It seems hard to light....
  10. Ok guys, after reading what has been said, here is what I plan to do. Please tell me if this is a good idea or bad idea. 1 - I am going to relocate my burners. Cut off the existing ones and patch up the holes. 2 - Create new holes for burners using a 2" burner sleeve this time that will hold my burner in place. Locate burners on an angle directed towards the far edge of the forge bottom/side. 3 - Remove firebrick base and remove mortar from insulation. 4 - Reinstall insulation. Place another piece of insulation for the bottom of the forge and feather in the sides. 5 - Coat insulation with Kast-O-Lite 30. How thick should the coat be? 1 coat? 2 Coats? More? 6 - 1/2 thick bottom layer of Kast-O-Lite for the bottom of forge. 7 - Coat of Plistix 900F Wash. How thick of coat? 1 Coat? 2 Coats? More? 8 - Light it up and watch it get hot and start swinging the hammer! Anything I missed here, please let me know. Is this the right direction for me to go to have what will WORK? Thanks.
  11. Also, I was running the burners at around 5 psi...does that sound about right or does it vary??
  12. Thanks for the welcome ! Learning a lot already! I think I've already regretting welding the burners to the shell. I think I may modify that if I can. Also, the chimney effect isn't good either. I'm going to need to relocate my burners on the side coming in at an angle. If I do this, is there a better angle than another? Where should the flame be directed to...the bottom center or does it matter? I will also have to modify the depth which means I have some work to do. Cubic inches interior is around 1055 cubic inches on the most inside. The shell itself is about 2373 cubic inches. I have a 2" layer of UniTherm Ceramic Fiber Insulation #6 Density rated for 2300° F. I have 2 fire bricks on the bottom. I coated all that with Rutlands Dry Mix 211 Refractory Mortar rated at 2550° F. Are these the right products I should be using or is there something I am missing or did wrong? I just did a test and here are some pics. I unhooked the front burner and plugged it...when I started it up it wasn't burning well. Looked like half the flame of the back burner. I thought I might have been running out of propane, but I think I was wrong on that because I burned the back burner for about 10 minutes. As I burned, I felt the burner pipe and it started warming up at the welded connection to the shell. The top stayed cool, but a few minutes later I felt the heat slowly working its way up the burner tube. I also noticed what looked like tiny cracks in the burner tube...sprayed some soap water on it and saw a ring form around the base of the burner. I shut off the propane right away. I don't trust it now. I get that feeling that something isn't right...ever get that feeling?? Anyways, here are the pics I was able to take. Thoughts anyone??
  13. Irondragon, thanks for the info. Love the look of that forge too...Nice!!
  14. My burner flares are flush with the 2" insulation inside. So what you are saying is I would need to back those off so they are just inside the shell 1/2"?
  15. Mixing tubes are 1" diameter. I did just learn about chimney effect as well. Didn't know about that until after my build. I could modify and fix that though. Hear is a picture of my burners. I purchased these online. Also, what is considered excessively hot for the forge shell? Mine does get warm to the point it is too hot to touch. Is this normal? The fittings were hot after I had turned off the propane and began to disconnect the gas lines. It may have been hot before that as well. What I really need to do is another test this afternoon to answer these questions and then I will know for sure what is going on. Let me do a test, take some pictures and get you the info you are asking for. Any other things I should be testing for during this test??
  16. Thomas, my tubes are 8" long with a 1 3/4 overall diameter flare on the end and the T fitting on the other end. Not sure about back burn...I just learned about that last night. I will have to check to see if I am getting that...will let you know after I check this afternoon. Because the burner is welded to the shell, it won't be as easy to see the back burn. Maybe welding to the forge shell isn't a good idea? Also because of welding to the shell there is a greater heat transfer to the tubes verses having a burner support holder?? Thoughts?
  17. Hey everyone. I am a newbie to the forging arena. Been trying to learn how to build a forge. Made my own and lit it up and it seems to burn well. Only issue I am having is the burner tube and fittings heat up a bit. Is this something that is dangerous and is my design flawed? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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