Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TruebloodLowery

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Washington State

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for linking the information about the break test. I read through it and the test was a success (i think). After quenching in oil, I let it cool to the touch and tempered at 425 F for two hours. It was a dark blueish color after tempering. I then took it out to break it. It bent over a lot (exhibited ductile failure), and took probably 10-15 hard hits from my hammer (not my good forging hammer) before a crack formed. I've attached some pictures. Sorry I couldn't get a better quality picture of the grain structure. The color on the inside of the material is much lighter than I ex
  2. I removed a portion of the item, heated just above critical temperature (checked with a magnet), and quenched it. It hardened up and skated a file quite nicely. My next question before doing a break test is, should I temper it? I think that if I temper it, it will be a lot harder to break. Also, I'm not sure if tempering has any impact on the grain structure or not. If I do temper before doing the break test, I'll get a better idea of how the material will behave when I use it. Any help is again greatly appreciated!
  3. Hi Lazyassforge/ Bill, thanks for sharing! I’m very interested in my heritage, so the more I learn the better. Goods, I will do a test sample and see what happens. Someone above also recommended a break test to see the grain structure, which I’ll also do. I’ll post the results when I get the tests done.
  4. Just a quick update. I believe that I purchased this at an antique store in the Southeastern corner of Indiana, where I used to live. (I have updated my current location to Washington State). First, I annealed the piece. Then, I removed the mushroomed edges and cracked areas. While cleaning it up with the wire wheel, I noticed there appears to be a stamp of some sort. The letters " O, W, E, and R" seem visible, as well as a possible Spade symbol before it? I'm not sure what to make of that. I've attached a picture. My only possible solution is that it could have been passed down to me
  5. Thanks for the heads up swedefiddle. I did a bit more careful grinding and you’re correct about it having many cracks in the mushroomed area. I will be sure to get that top area cleaned up to prevent projectiles. ThomasPowers, my main concern was whether it would be suitable material (I’m wanting a tough material that is not brittle) to form the head of the axe. Perhaps I’m wrong, but I was under the impression that wrought iron or cast iron would not be as good as mild steel for those properties. So, I suppose I don’t “need” to know the exact material. I did want to ask around
  6. Hello and Thanks for the welcome. I did read that first, and I also read a file about Metallurgy that was linked as a resource on this website. The sparks appear a golden yellowish color and are roughly 6 inches in length, with either "sprigs" or "forks" at the end. I am fairly new to blacksmithing in general, so I wanted to ask some more experienced folk. Based on the chart you linked, it could possibly be a form of cast iron. I didn't want to waste the item if it is not suitable material for an axe. Thanks again for your help!
  7. Hello, I would like to use this item to form the butt, cheek, and eye of an axe. I have attached a picture of the item and a video of a spark test. A little bit of research leads me to believe it is composed of medium carbon steel. Would anyone please help me correctly identify the material? Thanks so much in advance! IMG_1003.MOV
  • Create New...