BOB T

I quench in Canola oil ,I did heat the oil up some before quenching the Hawk .the edge harden pretty hard , a file would skate across the edge ..I then temped back some where a file would just cut the edge. The handle is Curly Maple from Dunlap Woodcrafter ,they have a web site . I use Aquafortis Regent stain ,this stain bring out the Curly Maple and I also applied a thin wash coat of Cherry stain too. The Aquafortis Reagent is available from Track of the Wolf they also have a web site to order from

I have been forging some Tomahawks and small Axes lately . The interested in making/forging them seems to be growing . Here`s some pictures of one I complete and donated to a Buck Skinners Rendezvous. Thanks for looking bob Sorry ,forgot to mention the Tomahawk has a 1075 steel cutting bit forged welded in

not the best with the computer , didn't think the first posting "worked" ...thanks on the information....

Looking to get some 1075 or 1084 steel from Baron.. Been checking their website for a few weeks and been out of stock, sent a couple inquiries by e-mail as to when it will be in stock again but no reply back.. I've only place a couple orders with this company; possibly be back in stock soon??? Or if someone knows another supplier that specializes in small orders for the steel??? No big hurry to get the steel... Maybe find some Quad state coming up??

Been checking New Jersey Steel Baron for some 1075 or 1084 steel ..they have them show out of stock for several weeks now; I sent a couple emails as to when the steel might be back in stock ; no emails back?? I have only order a couple times for them. Are they sometimes out of stock for 1075 or 1084 for period of time ?? I'm in no big rush to get steel, can wait ..Other Steel supplies that take small quantity orders? thanks

Thanks Kozzy...I agree up front on the information ..

Checking to see if anyone had any experience crossing the border(through customs) into Canada with the personal blacksmithing tools?? Going to Peters Valley Crafts School for a blacksmithing class, taking some of my tools to used (one tool box), but planning couple days in Canada as a side trip.. Readied the customs regulations, don't see anything that would be prohibited??? Anyone else had experience crossing the border with your personal tools, thanks

Sorry, forgot to mention that I didn't build this particular bottle opener, was made by Gary Riss,

Had our 23rd annual Blacksmith Hammer-in at Scott County Park, bottle opener was the trade item, group picture, and one made to look like miniature tongs, about 40 blacksmith show up. Great time.

Here is what one of my customer posted as a review, I think it says it all............ "This is the optimality of the blacksmith's craft and reflects the "old world" knowledge of heat, metal, and the timing of pressure to the combination. Just wonderful work in a time when time is often qualified and quantified by "how many?", not "how suburb!" These are timeless products forged with coal, quenched in sweat. Museum quality. Treat yourself, and own something with soul."

01tundra......Do you know if you can you get new blades for the # 5 Edward shear ????

Benton: I got the last opening in the class.. Inquired by e-mail a few questions about the ax making class, answered my questions and said there was only one opening left, so I jumped on it... Looking forward to the challenge, should be an excellent learning experience. Forgot to add... I purchased his(James Austin) CD on "Forging a Viking- Age Broad Ax" a few months back.. Well worth the money if you're interested in forging this type of ax.. I Recommended

Hi Gerald... Thanks on the feedback on your class, looks good but looking just for ax class, watch your video on YouTube for making axes plus hammers blow, very nice work.. If things work out for me time wise?? Very interested in doing James Austin ax class at Peters Valley.. Maybe see you there???

Just found that Peters Valley School has an ax class ,has anyone been there and could give some information on the School`s Blacksmithing classes ??? James Austin is the teacher...Thinking of taking the class???thanks

Looking for classes on Axes and/or Tomahawk making, I am located in the Midwest, not a whole lot of classes available, so I know I'll have to do some traveling. Have been in contact with Steve Ash about classes, indicated he may have one in the fall at New England School of metals.. Also saw that John C Campbell folk school, has a weekend class, have taken some classes there on the weekend classes, I prefer something longer in time, Thanks in advance

Plan on putting heat shrinking tubes on the wires and slip them over the terminals to help insulate the hot wire, but realize the contact points will still be "hot", understand your concern

Setting up a forge with these, old rheostat style controls and Buffalo blower . Has anyone used this type of a set up ?? Friend of mine check it out with a meter, says appears to be okay ?? Would like a little help on wiring up this old rheostat blower controls to my Buffalo blower motor, will also be installing a air gate too. Thanks,bob

(I 'am reposting this Question, put it under gas forge by mistake) Was out to Quad State this past week and purchase Buffalo Forge blower & motor unit (2-E type) runs very well. I want to be able to regulate the speed .My question, what type of rheostat or speed control works for these units? I have a friend that has old-style speed control that came with these type of forges, but he's not sure if it's in working condition? If it doesn't work, is there other options out there for speed control?? I also plan on using an air gate in conjunction with speed control . I know certain types of rheostat can cause damage to motors.. Any advice much appreciated, thanks

Was out to Quad State this past week and purchase Buffalo Forge blower & motor unit (2-E type) runs very well. I want to be able to regulate the speed .My question, what type of rheostat or speed control works for these units? I have a friend that has old-style speed control that came with these type of forges, but he's not sure if it's in working condition? If it doesn't work, is there other options out there for speed control?? I also plan on using an air gate in conjunction with speed control . I know certain types of rheostat can cause damage to motors.. Any advice much appreciated, thanks

The Upper Midwest Blacksmith Association holds an annual event there the weekend after Mother's Day each year. The event is held in a blacksmith shop that was constructed by the Association adjacent to the original shop. Also there are monthly Hammer-in through the warm months of the year. I've been there many times, and always find something different in the original shop. There is a church just a few blocks down the street and you can walk through the cemetery to see grave markers that were made in the shop when was operational.

Sam: Frosty is giving you very good advice on hiring or finding a person experienced in rigging. I working 45 years plus skilled trades done a lot of rigging and he is right when he says things go bad in a split second.

David..I found that drawing last night on the web, thanks for posting it ..will check the dimensions later today, but I'm reasonably sure it's the one that was used for the Civil War mountain howitzer,

I know what you mean about eBay, I found information on the person that bought the anvil on a different website and he was duplicating a Civil War mountain howitzer set completely, he indicated that had ordinance drawings, pictures, sketches. Also sent him an e-mail asking for the information,, just thought I'd check here for information too

Had this Stump Anvil in my collection for years, just recently saw one similar to it on eBay stating that it was issued with the Civil War Mountain Howitzer to make repairs in the field?? Looking for information to verify it, good shape, was painted red when I purchased it years ago along with some other blacksmithing equipment, I did some wire brushing on it to look for the US stamp, couldn't find any US stamp but still has fairly heavy paint on the surface of the anvil, the hardy is 1/2" pictures below, thanks Bob