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I Forge Iron

Bonnskij

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Everything posted by Bonnskij

  1. Alright... now my billet looks like this: I don't get it. Did it air quench and then crack because I didn't temper it?
  2. Back in the fire it went. Not as long as I'd like to though. It was getting late and I'm sure the neighbours wouldn't appreciate it much. My dad told me to tack weld the ends before welding the seams of the whole billet to keep it from popping apart. I put the whole thing in a vise though, so I don't think it would have mattered much for the stick welding part at least. Not sure why my welds didn't quite work out. Probably lack of wallop as I am still worrying about de-centralising the core. It's getting wallopped now for sure though!
  3. Can't forget that! Well here is the billet, but this won't do will it? Back in the fire?
  4. Just haphazardly welded together a billet of mild steel with a o1 core. Hopefully it's completely sealed and I won't have to worry about fluxing.
  5. Better than nothing that's for sure. Perhaps more popular in use than I'm imagining too. Just thinking multiple bent prongs makes for a weapon that is pretty bad at penetrating even rudimentary armour while also being somewhat unwieldy. Also, I'll hope you'll forgive me just thinking out loud without much sources to back it up; although infection would be a big killer, the ability to incapacitate your opponent during the battle itself is more important, and you need a good hit with a pitchfork for that to happen. Pitchfork in the arm, shoulder or leg? Eh... probably still in the game. There should be plenty of farm tools more easily adapted into something akin to a glaive or halberd. Scythes, sickles and billhooks comes to mind. No golf for the English! Bow only! Also I love spears. Spears are great. Apologies for the rant. I just enjoy the thought exercise.
  6. And scythes and bill hooks... But pitch forks for their common depiction as the peasant weapon of choice, i don't think was neither an effective nor popular weapon.
  7. Finished another sløyd knife. This one with a Queensland maple handle. Had to round the silky oak handled sløyd, but that one looks alright now too. This one gets to keep the faceted handle.
  8. Wonderful! It certainly does wonders for my mental health and fortitude. Highly recommend! Just finished up this little sløyd knife, but I've managed to misalign the blade. Hope I can shape the handle around my stuff up.
  9. Been taking some days off work here and there to focus on well... doing things I enjoy I suppose.
  10. Thanks! Yes it is. 6mm x 25mm (about 1/4" by 1"). Somewhere between 15 and 20 cm length. Now with matching stabby fork!
  11. Sure wouldn't want a sand leak! I got some big sheets of plywood I got from work, so that would be a cheap option to try at least. I've tried making some wedges and also filling in with epoxy. Neither has been a very long lasting solution. Might make some steel wedges and give another go though.
  12. It is probably not deep enough. I probably made it too tight a fit too, so I'm not sure if it bottoms out a hundred percent. It is very slowly skewing as I work, but enough to be annoying. Appreciate all your suggestions. I'll abandon the concrete idea and will probably build a new set up with either dimensional lumber or a plywood pyramid with sand. Thanks everyone!
  13. Thanks. That was an interesting read. I was thinking along the same lines in that the post anvil itself will not be directly on top of the concrete, but the concrete will add mass and stability. I am losing a lot of energy from my hammer blows with my current setup. It's not impossible that I could take my anvil, stump and all, put it in a bucket and cast the whole thing in cement. (Just for a reference to what size stump my post anvil is actually mounted in. I'd be a bit concerned that that setup would quickly crumble.) I think a 20 litre bucket would add about 40 kg or 80 pounds to the mass, and as long as I can do that in a way where the base doesn't crack, I reckon I'd be golden. At least better than what I am doing at the moment and at least until I can get a proper/better anvil).
  14. At work at the moment, but I'll take a photo when I get home. The post is long enough that I could secure it almost on the bottom of the bucket. I was a bit concerned that a bigger container would force me too far back from the anvil and limit my choices in positioning myself in relation to the anvil. I could probably find something bigger though. My stump is smaller than the bucket. It is surprisingly difficult to find the stumps and scrap metal to put an anvil together here in North queensland. The crumbling of the concrete is certainly my biggest concern, but my current setup is also getting frustrating to work with.
  15. Hi everyone. I am currently using a post anvil set in a wood stump. However there is a couple of problems with it. It is a bit light on the base, so can move around a bit. and it has a tendency to skew when hammering on it and so I'll have to knock it back into position. I would like to take my post anvil and set it in concrete, but am debating how to go about it. I'm thinking a 20 l pail, build up on the bottom of the pail with wood blocks until the stump is the right height and then pour in the concrete. I would also like to reinforce the concrete to give it a bit more shock resistance but unsure how to go about the reinforcement. So essentially. Is my 20 liter bucket of concrete a reasonable idea and if so, what's an appropriate way to reinforce it? Thanks for any help! Bjorn
  16. New addition to the kitchen coming along. This concludes the hand sanding, so I'm on to the handle.
  17. 1084 core with a mild steel jacket. Heated to one shade brighter than non magnetic and quenched in pre heated canola oil. I suspected parts of the weld hadn't taken when I filed the bevels and I saw a hairline run along the middle, but thought I'd try quenching anyway. I'll know for next time now to do more welding heats Maybe I can grind down one side and make it a left handed tiny knife. VID_144550303_043532_269.mp4 Thanks for the input on the tapering Frosty and JHCC. I like this new method of tapering, though I'm ending up having to do more clean-up as well so far. That's just something else to work on for me. Worth not having to deal with all the fishmouthing.
  18. Finished a couple more bottle openers this morning. Tried Brian Brazeals method for drawing out a taper. Not used to it, so drew out a lot longer than normal and had to do the head end differently to what I normally do. No mistakes. Only happy little accidents. I also quenched this little guy: Unfortunately my welds weren't up to par and it delaminated.
  19. Well my heat treat seemed to work out alright. Never seem to be able to photograph hamons properly, but here's a preliminary etch. Now I'll have to figure out how to add the secondary bevel in a reasonable timeframe without scratching the blade No humans or other mammals were harmed during the quench. I stuck with the brine and oil.
  20. ActualIy I guess my comment on youtube isn't entirely correct. Thorbjorn Ahman is a great inspiration, whatever Walter Sorrels says on his videos hasn't steered me wrong so far as i know and I'm looking forward to trying out some of the stuff I saw on a few Brian Brazeal videos lately.
  21. Ah, see I don't use youtube all that much for anything but entertainment. As I said, I'm pretty green, but I've been in science for long enough to have a some critical sense of sources I should think. (Y'all need some Norwegiefied words for the record. "Kildekritikk" rolls much better off the tongue). That being said. Metallurgy is certainly not my thing, and I find it confusing to no end. I like knifesteelnerds, this forum and bladesmithsforum. According to knifesteelnerds w2 (which my knife may or may not be) needs to cool in about three seconds. Purely anecdotal, but a lot of the smiths on bladesmithsforum seem to swear by a water/brine into oil quench for good hamon with minimal risk of cracking. Now for what I have seen on youtube. Blades don't appear to crack until several seconds into a water quench if they do. This too makes sense to me, as I would imagine the whole blade is hot enough at the start of the quench to bend rather than crack under the stresses. When the edge is fully cooled and hardened and the thicker spine then cools slower after and contracts, it pulls apart and breaks the brittle edge. As for the oil. I am assuming if I mess up an interrupted quench, the retained heat in the blade will simply autotemper the knife, and quite possibly overtemper it. Oil should cool it quickly enough to stop that from happening. I have seen some of the old recipes for quenchants. Are you trying to tell me the urine of a redhead is not the ultimate of quenching liquids? Would oil over water be a thin layer of oil floating on top of water and then the spine is left in the oil while the edge is in water during quenching? As for my ginger beer. It is a combination of seriously tasty and a donkey kick in the jaw. About half a glass is enough to put you on your behind and give you a cracking headache in the morning. "Old death whisper" seems to be as fitting a name for it as the whisky in fup duck. Tastes alright though. Hope I didn't miss the point entirely or it's looking like I'm trying to start an argument. Just want to understand the processes and how to best make the things I enjoy making.
  22. Just got home from work, so i'm working on that one. I tried saving money by not buying beer for a while, but come payday i was just as broke anyway. Better to be broke with a carton of beer than without i reckon. But if you'd ever try my homemade ginger beer I'd say you'd argue that got less toxic after processing. Now i'm still very green, so apologies if i get facts and terminology wrong I'm running on the assumption that the file is made of something akin to w2, so fairly low hardenability. 3 seconds in brine to quickly get it over the curve to convert as much as i can from from austenite to martensite. I believe the temperature needed to drop by a fair bit in just a second or so, but i cannot remember quite how much. 300 degrees Celsius rings a bell though. After the initial fast brine quench I'll pop it into oil for a more controlled temperature drop for the rest of the way to reduce the risk of cracking. According to what I've read the end of the quench causes more stress while a fast quench helps give a hamon more pop. It should be like a more controlled interrupted quench.
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