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Posts posted by ValentineForge
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I recently finished this blade for a gentleman that does revolutionary war reenacting. It is a hand forged blade from 1095. (Quenched and tempered). 10" blade and 3/16" finished thickness. Just over a 4" hidden tang. I slotted the tang and welded in a 1/4" carriage bolt for the thread. The gaurd and pommel are solid brass. The gaurd was cut and ground from 3/16" x 3" brass. Annealed about 20 times as I slowly hammered it to shape and all hand filed and hand sanded the shell. The pommel is 1-1/2" hexagonal brass bar stock that I ground to 1-1/4" so I knew it was square. Drilled and tapped to thread on. 45° angles on the end and 16° angles on the handle side and hand sanded to final shape. All the brass was buffed to a nice golden mirror shine. The handle was made from a 1-1/2" square block of birdseye maple. Ground to size, shaped with files, and hand sanded to 400 grit. Topped off with 3 coats of danish tongue oil and hand buffed. I vinager etched the blade for about 18 hours and cleaned it up before final assembly. Everything was epoxy'd as I went. Right down to the final turn of the pommel. Its feels good in the hand and is quite well balanced. Feedback is welcome and appreciated. Thanks.
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Ive been wanting to make a hammer eye punch and drift for a while now and I got a milk crate full of random old rusty metal at an estate sale for 5$ a couple weeks ago. In it were 3 - 7/8" allen keys. I'm not big on using "mystery metal" and I was just wondering if these things would be suitable for making a punch and drift set from. Thanks in advance.
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Hi everyone. My names Nicholas and I am the owner of Valentine Forge. I am located in La Plata, Md. I specialize in custom knives. Especially historical recreations. I made my first knife in 2008 while working as a kitchen cabinet salesman for an unnamed blue label home improvement company. I also do alot of work for a friend that is a liscenced gunsmith. (Specifically I case harden frizzens for muskets) I love forging artistic works and welding things I found in the trash to make "art". Haha as far as I know almost every bit of working knowledge I have comes from the school of hard knocks but I love learning. I'll be asking more as I traverse the site. I'd LOVE to be a bigger part of the community. Thanks love peace and chicken grease.
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As the title says, other than high polish, what are some of your personal favorite ways to finish brass? I'm working on a brass gaurd with an integral clam shell right now for an 18th century German hunting knife reproduction. I've hand sanded it to a 220 grit and hand buffed with a cloth and brass compound. It looks good but it's not quite what I was hoping for. I'm trying to get a nice finish without a mirror shine. I'm thinking maybe hand buffing with 0000 steel wool instead of the cloth.
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On 1/3/2020 at 9:26 PM, Glenn said:
I saw one of those for sale on Ebay recently. 500lbs if I remember correctly. If you have a spare 5800$ dollars laying around that is. Hahahaha
A leg vise is designed specifically to take the abuse that a standard bench vise is not. It distributes the hammer blows in a way that doesn't hurt the vise or the surface its mounted to. The screw block is a completely isolated unit. Allowing the "hulk smash" to be absorbed by the ground and not the threads.
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I purchased a really nice Peter Wright post vise from an antique shop in Port Royal, Virginia yesterday. I wire brushed xxxxxxxx it and oiled it up real good today. Anyway... I was putting it all back together and noticed a 4 leaf clover stamped into the box. It looks like it could be a makers mark and the previous or original owner did it for identification perhaps? Anyone have info on that or maybe another theory? If you're interested I can provide pictures. It has a 5" jaw and I estimate 80lbs.
Hessian "Jaeger" knife
in Knife Making
Posted
There really is no visible epoxy there. I'm guessing it's some kind of optical illusion in the picture. But I do agree that the pommel is a bit out of sorts with the handle. I dry fit the thing about 200 times before final assembly but when I glued it up the pommel just didn't line up exactly. It either over tightened or under tightened by a half turn. It should have been a 1/16" reveal the entire way around. Not none at the bottom and 1/8" at the top. I'm not entirely sure what happened... but thanks for the feedback!!