Nathan Kraft

Ok that also brings me to my secondary question. Where I work, there’s a tree which ends up blocking the wind. This requires me to be standing in a big cloud of hot air and coal smoke. Should I wear a respirator? And what should I do in the summer when it’s too hot for a respirator? Or will the smoke not be that big of an issue? Currently I don’t have too much smoke to deal with as I’m burning anthracite, but I hope to change to bituminous after I get some other tools I wanted for Christmas, and this will be a much bigger issue then. Thanks, and sorry if I am annoyingly ignorant LOL!

So, today I officially tested positive for COVID-19. Since I’m not in school for a couple weeks, I had figured I could use my time to finally do some forge work (if anyone happens to remember, though you may not, I’ve been really busy with school and haven’t had time or energy to light up the forge), but I did have a question. I am currently almost entirely asymptomatic, my only symptoms being loss of taste and smell. Do y’all think that if I were to do some forging that the coal smoke and/or heat and/or exertion would pose a danger to me? My main concern is the coal smoke, which y'all know about so I thought you might be able to answer my question.

Alright. Thanks!

My aunt had a kitchen knife that broke right below the bolster, just leaving a bit of the tang, and she would like me to fix. I was thinking I could probably epoxy it, drill a small hole through the handle and attatched tang, and put a small (nail) pin in it. Do y’all think that would work?

What is sucker rod exactly? And where could I find it?

Alright, I give in. I’ll make my own LOL. So just so I know, I just basically pound the end down flat and tapered, heat treat, and do some final grinding to clean up to make the punch, right? Also the drift is just a straight section of on shape/size bar with either a chisel tip or a round taper?

I apologize if these are oft asked questions, but I have been looking for a couple days now and haven't been able to find the answers I need. I am looking to obtain my first punch and drift (or drifts). I believe I want a slot punch, but if anyone has suggestions please don't hold back. 1. I would like to buy a punch so I have one that I know is well made and has good geometry. However, I have not been able to find anyone online that sells slot punches. Does anyone know where I might buy one? Also what size should I get (I am planning to do simple beginner projects like bottle openers, etc.)? 2. If I must resort to making one, are there any rules/suggestions regarding geometry, steels, construction methods, etc? 3. Regarding drifts: What sizes are good to have/commonly used? What are some of the recommendations for geometry, etc? Should I make them out of the same steel I make the punch out of? I am sure theres something else I'm missing, so if anyone thinks of any other information, it would be greatly appreciated.

I am currently working through 40 feet of stock. I’m gonna make a ton of coat hooks until I get bored of them, then work on other beginner projects (s hooks, fireplace sets but they take more stock and a bit more advanced skills, working on forge welds later, and whatever else I feel like making) but hooks are a good way to start off, and if you don’t have tongs you can make coat hooks with long stock and have the last step be hot cutting it and then break it off into your slack tub. But whatever you do, make sure it has multiple techniques required (as George said) and repeat them over and over to really develop your skills.

If you are going to use railroad track as your anvil, I would recommend that you mount it stood on end to maximize mass under your hammer. This will help it work for you by returning more energy from what you put into it. I would also use an angle grinder to put some radii on the edges (maybe even use different sections for different things. ie a flat section for planishing blows, a couple different radii, maybe even a hot cut). I am only regurgitating what I was told or have read about railroad track. I apologize if I am getting any of my info wrong. I personally use a 10lb sledgehammer head, which works really well for me.

I just realized that what I asked didn’t really cOnvey what I meant, though I thank you all for the detailed answers as I got a bunch of good ideas I wouldn’t have thought of otherwise more specifically, I meant how do I access the scraps, like do I just go in and ask or is there a better way to get them to say yes? Also would smaller places be better than large companies, since large companies (I think) would have specific rules for where the scrap goes?

Alright, I was confused from previous posts on a36. Thanks for clarifying it for me. If I want to use scrap, what places should I look besides machine/fab shops? Also, it turns out I don’t have a ride today, so I will be going tomorrow if they’re open, and Monday if not.

I meant that with the variation I’ve heard that at times a36 can be really hard to work with certain pours. Also thanks for explaining what 4140 would be for, I was confused. I’ve looked at the ABANA chapter, but the calendar is quite confusing so I’m not really sure when/where the meetings are. LOL I’m a bit dumb. I hadn’t even thought about contacting smiths from there. You’re right that Texarkana isn’t really far, but I still probably couldn’t get a ride anytime soon.

Isn’t a36 generally much more annoying to work with? Also how would I go about finding classes in my area? I’ve looked around and as far as google shows, there aren’t many forges near me and those that exist don’t have classes available I think(?).

Thank you very much, I think now I’ll get one length of 3/8 and one of 5/8 square stock of mild steel. I’m very glad I thought to ask before I bought a lot of expensive steel and ruined it. To clarify, is there any specific type of chisel or punch I should buy? Also what kind of tongs would be a good first pair to make?

Thanks for sparing me that loss frosty. Would the mild steel work for tongs also?

I am planning to hit up the steel yard tomorrow, and I had a couple questions before I go. I am planning to get two lengths of stock (one each of two different alloys- probably 1018 and 4140). From my googling it seems as though EMJ would be the best place here for me to go, but if anyone else in the Tulsa area has better places, please tell me. I am planning to do lots of beginner projects (punches, chisels, a set of tongs, etc. with the 4140 and hooks etc with the 1018) I was wondering what size of stock I should buy in each, and should I get square or round stock? Also any suggestions of better projects, alloys, etc. are fully welcomed. Thanks!

Thanks for the help y’all. Due to your help I was able to get my forge going and do my first ever forge work (I was heat treating and accidentally melted the tip of my knife. I had to hammer in a rough tip and then clean it up in the grinder.) I plan to do some more forging over this week of “coronacation” lol. Sorry that this is kinda unrelated, but what kind of beginner projects would y’all suggest I start with to help me learn some hammer control?

UPDATE: Over the course of the week, I have finished my knife. During the heat treat I melted the tip off (this was my first time lighting my forge and I wasn’t sure where the hot spot was). I ran and grabbed my anvil, and did my first ever forging putting in a rough tip. I then regroups it to shape. I opted not to do a high grit finish (I’m pretty Rough on my knives so it would be scratched up anyway). I used some scrap 1x4 for my handle and finished it with a burned oil finish (idk if that’s what it’s called lol). I have a pretty steep blade angle, and was unable to get to to shaving sharp, but it will roughly push cut paper. I messed up the handle as I forgot to profile the front of the scales before I epoxied it, but I was able to carve it down to a usable shape.

As some of you may remember, I built my first forge a while ago. Today I was going to light it for the first time. I got a roaring fire going with wood, then put coal on it and the wood burned off but the coal didn’t light. I am using anthracite coal in a side blast jabod forge. Anyone have ideas/suggestions of what could be wrong?

UPDATE: I have finished my bevel on both sides to the point of being ready for heat treat. I would fire up my forge and do the ht, but it’s a jabod and it’s raining outside (this would be my first time lighting my forge too) so I’m going to wait until tomorrow.

I’m almost to the point of pre heat treat sanding. Where do y’all get your sandpaper (I’m pretty low budget so cheaper options are better).

I am going to be using it as a hunting and general camp knife. I still am going to extend the bevel to about 2-2.5x what it is now. It will still be pretty steep angle, as I am working with some pretty beefy stock (1/4 in- I got it for christmas, and my parents weren't quite sure what to buy lol).

Today I finished my filing jig and started the bevel on one side. I would’ve kept working, but my parents said I had to go eat lol. What do y’all think? Also, I remember that I am supposed to have round, not square, plunge lines. But I’m not sure how to do that? Thank y’all for all the help! Also, I still need to get the blower for my forge, so once I get the gross grinding on my bevels done, I probably can’t do more work besides drilling the pin holes until this weekend. Thanks for any critique or suggestions! Clarification: I have not finished this side’s bevel, I’m about half as far as I would like to be, and am cutting this down to the width of a dime until the heat treat

Well this discussion took a turn lol. I’m planning to do the filing on my bevels tomorrow after school. What types of wood would y’all recommend. Also, I’m wondering if y’all have any tips on matching the handle scales to the blade pattern if I use a mustard patina? I am wanting to use wood scales with pretty stark contrast grain and the grain going down the length of it.

Is stabilization necessary if I use wood scales? Or will oil suffice?