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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Trees

  1. And now to piggyback on this post - after the first real heat of the Kast-o-lite in the forge body, I've noticed some of the dreaded cracks appeared. I was heating up the forge to finish burning off the stinkies in the cured KOL before applying 2 coats of Plistix to the whole inside. Am I correct that these cracks can be effectively patched with the Plistix, or should I be trying to get a bit more Kast-o-lite in there first for added strength?
  2. Interested to hear people's experience applying Plistix... I was putting my first coat on the kiln shelf pieces that will be my forge doors and the K26 firebrick piece that will be the removable divider. I stirred the powder well with the water to maybe slightly thinner than latex paint to start and used a paintbrush. On the first brush strokes it would clump massively - like it was instantly drying and clotting together, leaving the areas between the clumps with barely any Plistix on them. Was similar for both the kiln shelf (high alumina I believe) and the firebrick, but a little worse on the brick. I tried 'buttering' a couple pieces of the kiln shelf first - not drenching but spraying quite a bit of water on it, but that maybe seemed to make it worse? Also tried mixing thinner and thicker with no improvement. The picture was taken after spending a bunch of time smudging out the worst of the clumps. Is that just how it goes with the first coat, or is there something wrong with my technique? Also - I've noticed that once the remaining mixed Plistix dries a bit in the container, it seems revivable by mixing in more water. Wondering if I put a lid on the container, if the same leftover mix could be used in a day or two if a bit more water is added again?
  3. Thanks Neil! I will take you up on that For when I attempt another drill press T down the road, that is good advice on using a shorter nipple - that totally makes sense. And thanks Frosty for the head slapping realization that I could have swung the drill press to the side to clamp the flange directly. I must have forgot my coffee yesterday morning... The DP table and flange/nipple were square and centered every time I checked... I think maybe some flex/give in the plywood along with some deflection of the bit at the start and inconsistencies in the plumbing parts led to poor results. I had been starting the taps through the tees on the DP and removing the tees to finish tapping. In retrospect, it would reduce error to just complete it on the DP so the brass fitting could be chased and tapped for the MIG tip without rotating the tee, as Frosty suggested. Thanks for the tips everyone
  4. I'm having a xxxx of a time trying to get the hole for the brass fitting tapped straight... I tried tapping 4 tees, on only one of them the fitting looks straight enough to try to put together, and even on that one, when I put it back on the nipple & flange to chase for tapping for the MIG tip, the centre of the brass fitting is off-centred from the drill bit. I'm off tomorrow to pick up a new batch of tees to try again, and maybe a new flange & nipples (in case those were compounding the error)... My guess is that even though I am being really careful to lightly peck the drill bit to start it (after filing a flat on top of the tee), that it is still deflecting some amount that I can't see and drilling off-centre. Both flange and nipple still seem to be very close to centre after removing the tee, certainly not off enough to get these results... Just wanted to throw this out there before trying again in case anyone has any extra tips, or sees anything obvious with my setup.
  5. Trees

    Propane supply

    Thanks Frosty for clarifying - those hoses were actually cheaper than any regular hose I was able to find and I didn't want to go with copper because the forge will get moved and likely bumped a lot. I do like that they are steel and not rubber/plastic next to the burner too. Thanks Neil - I flaked out and forgot about the meeting tomorrow! See you there
  6. I'm putting together a 20lb propane tank forge with two 1/2" Frosty T burners... I'm trying to sort out the plumbing to the burners and picked up a couple 2' long 1/2" stainless steel gas heater/dryer connector hoses to hook directly to the burners - at the other end they'll each go to a ball valve, then a Tee, then to my 3/8" propane supply hose, regulator, and 20lb supply tank. Looking at the parts, I'm now wondering if there is an issue going from a 3/8 supply hose up to two 1/2" hoses before the burner - I feel like gas lines usually go from larger to smaller diameters... But I figured the regulator would keep it all at the set pressure regardless and the burners wouldn't notice any different. Did I figure wrong?
  7. Thanks Frosty - it's great to get some feedback on that, especially from the horse's mouth . I feel like I was overthinking, but asking first helps to avoid adding on yet another source of error from deviating from the plans once I put it into the forge and am trying to tune the burners. Thanks again for making the instructions available!
  8. Thanks Mike - it does seem clear I am either over- or under-thinking this Without heading back into town to shop for other ideas, I just realized I have a 1/4" flare to 1/8 MPT fitting I could flip around like the one on the left. The MPT end is a sloppy fit for the #3 drill bit but the flare end is narrower than the bit, and I could tap the tee with 7/16 x 20 to thread the flare end into the tee. Because the flare end isn't threaded to the shoulder, it might allow a small bit of air to be drawn in between the tee and the fitting - I imagine that wouldn't have any negative effect on performance but I really don't have a clue about such things... Wondering if the potential for small air leak on the one on the left would be an improvement over the potential for small fuel leak on the one on the right?
  9. If anyone has somewhat recently ordered a 1/8 MPT fitting online for holding the MIG tip that fights tightly around a #3 drill bit (for tapping 1/4" x 28), and would be willing to share their source (if it's permitted by the forum), that would be hugely appreciated (especially if it's a vendor that can ship to Canada without too much grief). I just spent most of the day driving around town trying to find one but it seems all the ones available to my local suppliers (I tried ones from 5 manufacturers) are made so they fit a bit sloppy around the bit. Worst case I figure I'll use one of the local ones and put some pipe dope on the MIG tip threads, but I figure a tight fit for the tap will make it less likely to skew the jet in the tee... FWIW I'm looking for a 1/8 MPT - 1/4 MPT adapter to fit my system instead of the 1/8 MPT - 1/4 flare fitting recommended in the directions, but I imagine a vendor would have the same diameter inner bores on the 1/8 parts of both types fittings.
  10. Thanks guys. Glenn is no longer shipping outside of the US, but I managed to get hold of Wayne and he can send Plistix over in a flat rate box for a very reasonable amount. I forgot that the last time I looked into importing into Canada it was for a larger weight of Kast-o-lite. Thanks very much MonkeyForge for the details on how to prepare the bentonite and zircopax! I am excited to try that with the stuff I have, and the mixing instructions are a great start for experimenting. I think I will order some Plistix for the tiny forge for now, as I really want to squeeze as much heat out of the hand torch as possible. But I will experiment with the homebrew wash when I get my larger forge up and running.
  11. I'm finishing up a 2 IFB micro forge that I'm hoping to power with a bernzomatic propane torch. I've put on a layer of Kast-o-lite, which I've been able to have brought in at my local pottery supply shop. In trying to extract as much heat as I can from the little torch, I'd like to add a coat of IR re-radiating kiln wash based on what I've picked up in forges 101. I've tried to source Plistix or Matrikote, as they seem to be the preferred coatings on this forum, but nowhere I've asked locally has been able to source them, and the shipping costs to Canada from the US are probibitive... I keep coming across mention in older threads of using 97% zircopax and 3% bentonite as being potentially a good performing substitute, but this always seems to be followed by a caveat that more testing is required. I was able to pick these up locally but wanted to check if anyone has any updates on their experience using this (performance and/or tips for mixing & application? If the results haven't been so good with this mix or if something like Plistix would perform significantly better, maybe I just need to bite the bullet and pay to have Plistix shipped over... I have a larger propane forge build in the works for later this year, so will have need for more of whatever coating I settle on. Also, I wanted to thank the contributors on this forum for their incredible generosity sharing their knowledge. I've read through all of Forges 101 - what an amazing resource!
  12. Thanks Frosty! That is great info - I've learned so much from this site and would really like to thank you and the other curmudgeons for sharing your knowledge and being so generous with your time. I was thinking of storing the tank, hose & reg, and Forge & burner each separately but good general reminder about never wrapping a hose around hot things... I'll skip the quick disconnects as suggested. Besides convenience, I was partially concerned with wearing standard fittings out if I unscrew them after each use - that's good to know that it isn't much of a concern. Though as suggested I'll leak test them frequently. I know you recommend copper pipe for the forge connection, but I'm planning on rubber hose for now (to keep the system more portable) while trying to keep the end of the hose away from heat as much as possible by burner, elbow, & ball valve orientation. If I'm disconnecting a regular fitting (1/4 NPT or 9/16 or some other standard threaded attachment) at the ball valve attached to the burner after each use, should I be applying pipe dope to the threads each time I hook it back up?
  13. Apologies if this has been addressed already... I'm a bit dizzy from reading the Forges & Burners 101 threads for the last couple months and can't seem to find or recall seeing this discussed. I'm setting up for my first propane forge and am putting together a shopping list for hoses and connections from my local propane supplier. Looking to power one to two 3/4" burners with 6 to 10' of hose. In looking at the hoses in their catalogue, they have 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" Type 1 rubber propane hoses available. Can someone please let me know if 1/4" is fine for this purpose, or if a couple 3/4" burners may be hungry for more flow than that could provide? The catalogue states 350 psi rating for all the hose diameters but doesn't list cfm... I am hoping to follow Frosty's advice to keep my intentions mysterious when speaking with vendors Also, as I am dreaming of eventually building a larger forge (the 2 burner scenario) which I could use with the same regulator & hose, are propane-rated quick connects generally considered safe for gas forges? My thought was to have the hose terminate in a quick connect, which would be connected to a ball valve at the burner. That way I could separately stow away the forges, hose & regulator, and propane tanks when done for the day as I have very limited space. Thanks
  14. That's good advice - thanks guys. I like the idea of having a small section of RR track beside the anvil for when I want a flat face - the pictures make the anvil face look flatter than it is. ThomasPowers, I had thought about getting some square tube welded onto the end, but was worried (besides that big a weld being beyond my skill set) about the leverage on the welds.... Offsetting the hardie tools to rest on the anvil face totally makes sense. It would sure be handy to have hardy tools that can work on the same anvil.
  15. I am a beginner getting set up to forge at home now that our club smithy is shut down due to the virus. A couple months ago I was given an old anvil with the heel (and unfortunately the hardie hole) missing. It's still decently stout and has a lot of useable surface, but the edges are quite rough. It would be nice to get at least one area of the edge to be a sharper angle - especially since it's missing a hardie hole. And I'm quite limited in shop space, so having as many useful features on the one tool as possible would be ideal (e.g. rather than set up a second improvised anvil/stand as well). Any tips/thoughts on preparing the anvil for work? I'm mainly interested in making hardware (decorative hooks, latches, hinges) and woodworking & blacksmithing tools at the moment. A thought I had was to square off (or a small radius) the broken edge at the heel end and just grind the edges that are splitting open on the sides (to prevent them from tearing off). It would also be cool if there was a relatively easy way to add a hardie hole, but I imagine that's a more daunting project. I had thoughts about tickling part of the face with a belt sander to try to get at least a small flattish section, but gather from what I've read here that that is usually considered a bad idea... Thanks! Jason
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