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I Forge Iron

GCA

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About GCA

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    Victoria, BC Canada

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  1. Thanks Frosty! That is great info - I've learned so much from this site and would really like to thank you and the other curmudgeons for sharing your knowledge and being so generous with your time. I was thinking of storing the tank, hose & reg, and Forge & burner each separately but good general reminder about never wrapping a hose around hot things... I'll skip the quick disconnects as suggested. Besides convenience, I was partially concerned with wearing standard fittings out if I unscrew them after each use - that's good to know that it isn't much of a concern. Though as suggested I'll leak test them frequently. I know you recommend copper pipe for the forge connection, but I'm planning on rubber hose for now (to keep the system more portable) while trying to keep the end of the hose away from heat as much as possible by burner, elbow, & ball valve orientation. If I'm disconnecting a regular fitting (1/4 NPT or 9/16 or some other standard threaded attachment) at the ball valve attached to the burner after each use, should I be applying pipe dope to the threads each time I hook it back up?
  2. Apologies if this has been addressed already... I'm a bit dizzy from reading the Forges & Burners 101 threads for the last couple months and can't seem to find or recall seeing this discussed. I'm setting up for my first propane forge and am putting together a shopping list for hoses and connections from my local propane supplier. Looking to power one to two 3/4" burners with 6 to 10' of hose. In looking at the hoses in their catalogue, they have 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" Type 1 rubber propane hoses available. Can someone please let me know if 1/4" is fine for this purpose, or if a couple 3/4" burners may be hungry for more flow than that could provide? The catalogue states 350 psi rating for all the hose diameters but doesn't list cfm... I am hoping to follow Frosty's advice to keep my intentions mysterious when speaking with vendors Also, as I am dreaming of eventually building a larger forge (the 2 burner scenario) which I could use with the same regulator & hose, are propane-rated quick connects generally considered safe for gas forges? My thought was to have the hose terminate in a quick connect, which would be connected to a ball valve at the burner. That way I could separately stow away the forges, hose & regulator, and propane tanks when done for the day as I have very limited space. Thanks
  3. That's good advice - thanks guys. I like the idea of having a small section of RR track beside the anvil for when I want a flat face - the pictures make the anvil face look flatter than it is. ThomasPowers, I had thought about getting some square tube welded onto the end, but was worried (besides that big a weld being beyond my skill set) about the leverage on the welds.... Offsetting the hardie tools to rest on the anvil face totally makes sense. It would sure be handy to have hardy tools that can work on the same anvil.
  4. I am a beginner getting set up to forge at home now that our club smithy is shut down due to the virus. A couple months ago I was given an old anvil with the heel (and unfortunately the hardie hole) missing. It's still decently stout and has a lot of useable surface, but the edges are quite rough. It would be nice to get at least one area of the edge to be a sharper angle - especially since it's missing a hardie hole. And I'm quite limited in shop space, so having as many useful features on the one tool as possible would be ideal (e.g. rather than set up a second improvised anvil/stand as well). Any tips/thoughts on preparing the anvil for work? I'm mainly interested in making hardware (decorative hooks, latches, hinges) and woodworking & blacksmithing tools at the moment. A thought I had was to square off (or a small radius) the broken edge at the heel end and just grind the edges that are splitting open on the sides (to prevent them from tearing off). It would also be cool if there was a relatively easy way to add a hardie hole, but I imagine that's a more daunting project. I had thoughts about tickling part of the face with a belt sander to try to get at least a small flattish section, but gather from what I've read here that that is usually considered a bad idea... Thanks! Jason
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