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I Forge Iron

Matthew H

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Everything posted by Matthew H

  1. I do agree will all of you, i'll just shine it up. No need risking harming the face. Thank you, -Matthew H
  2. Honesty, sick of not being able to use it. It will indent everything that touches it, and also I want it to look good again. I understand the latter is not a very valid reason, but it would make it look so much better and function better. I will be taking a wire wheel to all of it then buffing pads with different buffing mediums to shine it up, then rubbing boiled linseed oil on it again. just needs to have some TLC and this is where i'm starting. -Matthew H
  3. Wow, I haven't been on here for 2 years and did not see any of your responses. Thank you all for your time, its been awhile now and i have not got rigidizer for the forge. I did realize I did not need that, sorry for not responding to any of you it was rude of me, but i did not get any notifications of anything. Thank you, -Matthew H
  4. Well it most certainly has been awhile since I have posted anything on here. But i'm going to cut to the chase and ask the question, do I need to worry about what type of welding rods I am going to use to repair the cutting table on my Peter Wright anvil? Also do I need to preheat the cutting table? note I am not going to even touch the face of the anvil, just the cutting table. I will attach some pictures of it to show the extent of the damage to it. the table is very uneven and has a lot of cutting marks and a giant pit in the middle. I have 7014, 6010, and 7018, shall I use these or do I need wrought iron rods? Thank y'all for your time and responses, -Matthew H p.s.: sorry for the bad photos in advance, and for clarification purposes I have almost graduated and obtained my welding certification for all processes, so I am not worried about my welding ability just have some questions. And I thank all of you for your help.
  5. I cant build one because I live at my parents house and i don't have a welder at home and don't want to put debit card info into a lot of websites. And less time to spend building
  6. Well... all things considered I’ve decided that I’m going to get the diamondback and some rigidizor and the other stuff that is needed
  7. Alright thanks y'all for the information thanks Matthew H
  8. Actually the steel plate face is really thick for an anvil on mine I’d say at least 3/4inch? Maybe well happy trails Thanks Matthew H
  9. Well the time has come for me to buy a forge, i am torn. My budget is 350 USD and building one is not an option for me, i was wondering what y’all think about diamondback forges, i was looking at their 2 burner series two and wanted to know if any of you had it and would recommend it. Or tell me if they are not a reputable company because I have seen mixed reviews. Thanks Matthew H
  10. Alright thank you i do not want to touch the face with anything unless i have to, and i will probably not have it restored, because I'm worried about tempering issues because i have no means of getting it tempered if i had it restored.
  11. After a long while of searching the internet, facebook groups etc... i have finally came across an anvil, 300 USD for it, it is a peter wright so i take it to school and wire brush all the rust off (1hr and 30min later) and i coat it in a linseed oil to protect from rust (boiled linseed oil) but here’s the thing there are so many dents on this anvil and I’m not sure if taking a flap disk to take them out would ruin the temper please help me with my problem, there is a little sway in it I’d say about 1/8? Should i have it milled and hardened by a hardening company, and how much would that cost? Here are some before and after pictures after on top Thanks Matthew H
  12. I made the handles in my shop and finish them with 600 grit, so that they wouldn’t give me blisters, I’ve been woodworking for years, ill admit I’m being ignorant on this one but a hammer is definitely not going to be my first project, because I don’t have a feel for moving the hot metal on an anvil that much. Ill probably start out by making a leaf and moving up to a knife then a hammer, ill look into directions to make the stuff ill be trying to make, i know its trial and error, but trust me I have a lot of experience in the error part. thanks -Matthew H
  13. Ive wanted to do blacksmithing/bladesmithing for years and i am dedicated to this i will never quit something I’ve started. But I’ve already spent hours making them (almost all sanding for that smooth glossy look) then i stained them and clear coated them tonight. I know this is something i want to do and stay with. I have a great deal of patience. I know how i will assemble them, Ive spent literal hours researching blacksmithing. -Matthew H
  14. So i have a question, instead of buying a blacksmithing hammer online i decided to make my own... but here’s the problem I don’t have a punch or drift whatever you call it... but i went and made these handles, one for a heavier hammer and one for a lighter one. Since you guys told me to start out with a small hammer. But i was wondering with the hammer blanks I’m going to buy if i could use a drill press to drill the hole for the hammer to mount on the handle. What do you guys think about this, I’m doing this because I don’t want to spend 100 some dollars on hammers One on left needs a bit more work
  15. I’m so confused it’s unreal. thanks for that -Matthew H
  16. Cool, thanks for the explaination? -Matthew H
  17. I did, it was not what Thomas said. It said its a warning, I don’t know though if there’s another meaning, i just didn’t see it. thanks -Matthew H
  18. Cool didn’t know that, google wasn’t really much of a help.
  19. I’ll have to look for that thanks -Matthew H
  20. I really wouldn’t mind spending 10 minutes watching someone review that lol, seeing that the company says its forged steel and says its not cast iron, wouldn’t that be false advertising and they could get sued?
  21. Cool, I didn’t know about the rules, is there anymore? Also they were screenshots is that okay? I don’t send links though. thanks -Matthew H
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