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I Forge Iron


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About blaksdc

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    Rome, Italy

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  1. Thanks! Here In Europe I'm having an hard time finding quenching oils, I'm starting to think I might be better off importing it from outside.
  2. Hey! Thanks everybody! Your experiences have been very helpful to me, thank you all for sharing.
  3. Generally yes, steel does get harder with quenching. But from what I've read around the net this does not apply to the 3xx series stainless steel. Quenching in water is apparently used to only stop chromium migration, so to have more corrosion resistance that is lost if simply forging. I was wondering if this loss of corrosion resistance is just barely noticeable, or if the aisi 3xx series become as rust prone as mild steel.
  4. I'm sorry I might have explained myself badly, I was referring to annealing to 1950°F followed by water quench, to prevent chromium precipitation(as written here https://www.steelforge.com/stainless-304-stainless-304l/ ). My question was more like, how much does this precipitation modify corrosion resistance? I'm not sure if it could be important only in "extreme" environments, or it's important for everyday use too. Thanks for the answer, Steve.
  5. Hello, It is to my understanding, from what I've read here and in other forums, that after you forge stainless steel (I'll be using mainly 316 and 304), you need to anneal and passivate it to maximize the stainlessness. But I've seen a few videos and read of people that do not anneal it after forging. Or some people that say, if you want to keep the black hammer marks on (if you want this kind of finish), not to passivate it, as they will be removed. My question is, since I will be using stainless to make mostly BBQ tools, pendants, bottle openers and such, how much of the stainlessness will be lost IF I skip these processes? As soon as I fix my forge I will compare how an annealed+passivated, just annealed, and brand new piece behave in saltwater or something like that, but I was wondering if someone has already answered this question.
  6. Does anyone have experience using Rye Oil Quenching Oil? I can get this stuff for around 25 $ per gallon and it seems to be the easiest one I can obtain. It's written on the site: Rye Oil 32: As alternative again to Parks AAA Quenching oil, this is a medium to medium/fast quenching oil, it's the industrial choice of heat treaters for O1 (1.2510) tool steel. It works well with steels such as O1, O7, 8670, 1080 and 80CrV2. Rye Oil 50: An alternative to the famous Parks #50 this is a low viscosity oil that approaches water in speed but it has a more uniform, less severe quench minimising the risk of cracking! It works great with steels such as 1095 and Silver Steel (1.2210). It also does not need pre-heating. Also, I never used quenching oils, just canola. How many quenches can I do before I need to change the oil?
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