vern509

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Posts posted by vern509


  1. Using a similar saw, like other have said the issue with the base flexing is real, it causes the blade and cut alignment to shift.  I can hear a shift in tone when it happens.  And mine seems to run best when kept cool, so lots of small bites.  (Not really adding anything new, just confirming the advice given above, especially about the abrasive cut off saw).


  2. Dont forget the good ol craigslist.  I try and search a few times a week for "helper springs," "leaf springs," and "suspension parts."

    The unused helper springs are the best!

    Also, if you go to the junkyard, take a look at the older f150/f250s.  A lot of them will have an "over load" spring on the rear, those are great as well!  And I know you dont like calling, but I know several junk yards that have "yard guys" (thats a loose term) that for $20 or so will pull the parts you want for you.  Not free, but for less than $50 you could have enough scrap to get your skills where you want them to be and start using your good stuff.

    Its still free to run a want add on craigslist and FB marketplace, start there too.

    And like everyone else has said, a dozen good doughnuts is your best friend.  


  3. Yup, saving my pennies for a grinder upgrade myself.  But honestly, the best investment is using your time to practice with a purpose.  Besides, my harbor fraud 1x30 hasnt wore out yet, and a new tool wont make me grind my bevels any cleaner.  But it does look like a knife!

     

     


  4. Have you asked him why he is selling, and what issues he had with it?  A lot of time an honest answer to those questions will help me feel better about a purchase.  I cant comment on price, but if it were in the Seattle market it would be in line with what others are asking.  As others have said, my concern looking at it is the dished face.  But the shoulders appear usable.


  5. Thank you, will do so!

    12 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

    It may correct it and it may not depending on if the microfractures weld.  They may have oxides in them and instead of welding just become larger---or form inclusions.  How good is your forge welding?

    Improving.  My learning so far has been that the key is in properly preparred work.  Having clean surfaces and good contact.  I cant just stick two pieces into the fire and poof them together.


  6. Read the post about used leaf springs, very good info.  Next project will be a san mai of RR spike and the same spring steel.  If I have ready correctly the forge welding will mend any mico-fractures.  Proceeded on this project in full understanding of that.  Nor am I selling my work.  (Edit, just wanted to add that I don't want to sound snarky.  The amount of free knowledge that others have shared on this site is amazing and I am grateful for it).   (Edit edit: and I dont intend to add to the list of people on here that make six posts and vanish either).


  7.  Yeah, getting one edge good is hard enough. :)

    I will keep my eyes open for some coil spring, I got this steel by donating some beer money to the yard guy at our local salvage steel operation.  I am now always on the lookout for unused "helper spring" sets on craigslist.  (But there is a shop in Chehalis that makes ambulances and other custom jobs, I am going to stop by and ask if they have new take off springs the next time I go by).

    The blade that came on it was xxxxxx chinese pot metal, but it was super helpful for having dimensions on hand to copy, and make it so that it fit the scabbard.  Heat treat was a doozy, it actually gave me the "need" (lol) to buy a 2 burner forge.  Normalized three times.  Put my single and my new 2 burner lined up end to end to get the entire blade hot enough, tested it on a magnet, then quenched in vegetable oil.  Clamped it between two pieces of angle iron; tempered at 550F for two hours in the oven (when the wife was out of town!).

    Has a very nice ring to it, and flexes well.  Decided to err on the side of toughness rather than edge retention; dont want it breaking and hurting anyone.

     

    STOP double spacing everything


  8. Will get a ton up tonight then.  Its 5160 from a semi truck trailer spring.  Started out trying to make a rapier, learned fast my ego and oven wont fit either :) Used a cut off wheel to get a long strip, then it was drawing and flattening and shaping.  I am happy with the results, but really the best part was learning.  Will be doing the entire process again soon as I know I can do better next time.  I did try and get a lot of the build documented on you tube under failing forward forges "cavalry saber reforged."


  9. Bought a cheap saber off of amazon, made my own blade for it.  Blade is 5160.  Will get more pics if people are interested.

     

    Did give me the chance to open my first champagne bottle via sabrage though :)

    IMG_20190609_193029.jpg


  10. I wouldnt read too much into the reviews, its heating a forge, not running a finiky furnace.

     

    But the big three in terms of quality are MEC (Marshall Excelsior), Fisher, and Rego.  

     

    *Edited to add: I think you may be overthinking it, pick one that looks good and go for it.*


  11. Not laughing at all, looks solid for a first project.

     

    My kids love making RR "knives".  The steel moves well under the hammer and grinds easy; and all of it builds skill and muscle memory.  Keep at it sir!


  12. As others have said, you really do want a 0-30 adjustable.  I started with a 0-20, and had to go bigger.

    If you want to go brand name, the marshall excelsior part number in the 6120-30.  But that doesnt have the POL adapter to fit the tank.  But with the NPT fittings you could use pipe from the regulator to the forge and not have to worry about rubber hose.