Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Bowen

Members
  • Content Count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Bowen

  • Rank
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Punt: I appreciate the response, I understand the consciences of heating the block. That is interesting to find someone still knowledgeable and in the anvil making industry. I will be in the lookout for him and I wish send a pm to him. Chelonian: I will soon Frosty: that’s what I was thinking and I didn’t want to take it up that high without a finish. I also didn’t want to get above 400f. Steel is steel. However, it is old and I do not want to jeopardize the intirgity of the anvil. It needs to be fixed. I would not be saying this if it was anything less of 1/4” deep 1/2” long chips throughout, not to mention it’s random. 1/8” spacing in some regions. . I could work around it, switching sides but fixing the one side would be best. It’s the later year HB (solid top). I understand that there is a compromise to issue.
  2. Pnut: Thank you for the welcome. I have not been technically “blacksmithing” for a while. I am getting into it. However, I have been repairing farm equipment ever since I can remember by some means that would require either forging or fabricating. I have been welding and fabricating for well over 10 years, used to work in the industry. I appreciate your concern on the well being of the anvil but it’s gonna happen. I have confidence in myself. Yt12: I will post pictures as well as the process. Irondragon Forge and Clay: Thank you for the welcome as well. I have done extensive research on the topic. I thought this would be the most appropriate place to resolve my questions. Did I not post in the correct location?
  3. Nice project. I see that you have placed alot of time and effort into this. Just something to think about. Have you thought about sleeving over the vanes, making the sleeve adjustable to control air intake? Maybe thread the exterior of the mixing chamber to accommodate this. This may or may not help, just came to mind. Oh, I have used a program ANSYS. If you found someone that has it, a cheaper version, or a cheaper platform, it could save you some money in the long run by simulating your CAD model. Of course the program takes the fun out of making and testing. All in all, nice work.
  4. I need some help answering a question. I have an anvil that I would like to begin working on in order to restore it for functionality. So there is no confusion, let's start with the basics. The anvil is a 300 lb Hay Budden. The extent of the damage is on the face. Yes, I can work around it only with smaller stock. It will be repaired and the edges beveled to my preference. For this task, I will be using a MIllermatic 200. I know that it is small, but it is all that I have. I have access to larger welders if need be. I have not completely made up my mind on filler material. Between MG710 and Stoody, however I am leaning more towards the 710 filler. I have researched all methods and I am familiar with Gunter's. If I use the MG 710, I will follow vendor (Messer) specifications for welding which basically is the same concept as Gunter's. Clean/grind, preheat, weld, and finish. Alright, I understand that I am building up a surface but typically what would the amps be say if you were welding? Stick vs TIG? I would like to TIG it, a lot cleaner, but the preheat is 750F compared to 390F stick. It does give the amps for stick, 45 to 90F (3/32" rod) and 80 to 210F (1/8"). I was looking for someone that had some experience with this filler and how it reacts. Also anyone that has TIG to anvil experience, speak up. I would like to know your process, heat control, amps, and electrode dia. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...