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I Forge Iron

LeMarechal

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Posts posted by LeMarechal

  1. All the important things about unsing the forge to minimize the scale have already been said.

    But if it is too late to lock the stable door after the horse has bolted(hope that I´m using this aphorism in the right manner :) ), I like to give you an idea how to "rescue" these pieces...

    Chemical scale removement may help you:

    white vinigar works fine. I´m using normal 10%white vinigar from a normal food store near to my location. Stored in a plastic barrel. Leaving the pieces in there overnight is just enouh, even for heavy scale. In most cases you can wipe of the rest of the scale simply by hand/toothbrush under running water.

    Maybe you won´t like the bright silver shiny surfaces you will get with this method?

    Another drawback maybe that you have hurry up a little bit to make your pieces dry after cleaning under water, because rust will come up in minutes, even if you have dried everthing carefully, there is no much time befor it will get a thin rusty coating. So if you want to try it out it is recomandated to dry things good after cleaning with water and make your coating (paste wax ect...) immediately afterwards.

    If you indeed don´t like this silvery look, go back to the forge and heat the pieces up to a dark red heat for rescaling to your liking. If you take the pieces out of the forge start wirebrushing until it is cool and you should end up with a nice, more blacksmithing like colour....

     

    Greetings Sascha

  2. Made some different kinds of sethammers today.

    The big cubic one is for use under my treadlehammer the smaller are more for use at anvil/postvise ect.20210107_163051.thumb.jpg.b9b888baddb321740a6d6f33cf3d8d19.jpg

    From left to right (above photography) you can see: straight sethammer with heavily rounded edges 1" square, sharp edges 1 5/8" square, sharp edges 1" straight, sharp edges 1" heeled sethammer...

    20210107_155718.thumb.jpg.cfbe65fb579263f0354ccf1795ee29e6.jpg

    Now have to search some fine wood handles. Here in Germany the traditional handels for top tool are made from oak or hazelnut branches... don't know where I can find. :)

    If you walk into the next forest and cut off some branches you can get in big troubles if anyone noticed...

  3. Think I found the answer :) 

     

    Here I copied such a statement for example:

    Die Hämmer erhalten gewachsene Hartholz Stiele die aber nicht verkeilt werden damit bei schiefen Schlägen auf den Hammer keine Prellungen entstehen durch die die Hand verletzt werden könnte

     

    Here I tried to translate with help of Google translator:

    The hammers have grown hardwood handles that are not wedged, so that if the hammer is hit at an angle, there are no bruises that could injure the hand...

    I'm sure everyone will catch the main idea :)

     

    After reading this I think I missinterpreted the whole thing. It doesn't mean loose in the manner of something wobbly or so.

    The point is, the handle itself should fit but then it is not wedged in place as usually done with handhammers.

    Furthermore I found in the book of -Otto Schmirler : the smithy's craft and tools -

    some drawings and photographs where obvious stick out is noticeable, but no wedges.

    So, I've learnd today to understand "loose" simply as not wedged :)20210107_000133.thumb.jpg.0ff20e9931c3736f9bfe4ba8ec3cb17c.jpg

    20210107_000236.thumb.jpg.865fd64dc86206911190b8eeedd1dfb2.jpg

     

     

     

     

  4. Hi Frazer,

    That's my preferred method too if I make tools by myself. Wrapping around the tool not to tight and you end up with a little "loose"

    But now I found some old  tools wich I would like to use in future. And they all have hammer eyes. The special point of these eyes is, they are parallel and not hourglass shaped as necessary for handhammers. 

    I came across this topic, because in all German blacksmithing books this loose fit is always recommended to avoid bruising the wrists. However, they don't explain further how to realise this "loose" fit :(

     

    Thomas, can you move these tools easily on the handle?

     

    Greetings

    Sascha

  5. Hi to all out there in the world,

     

    I got a question about fastening wooden handles to top tools.

    It is recommended to make the fit of toptool handles loose to prevent damaging the handle or hurting the blacksmiths wrist if an errant blow occurs.

    Ok so far the theory...

    But what does this mean in real life? I'm wondering how to fit the handle loose, but avoid the tool coming off the handle during using it?

    I find it very annoying if the tool slips off the handle every few blows.

     

    So, how do you fit loose :) 

  6. Hi Daswulf,

     

    You're right I realy should make a photo. Comes tomorrow...

    Today I try to drill the block:

    No spirals, only grey crumbs and at the edge of the drilling no burrs. So Latticino is right, its a sort of grey cast iron.

    I think welding is not possible/to complicate...

    The only solution I could imagine is: milling off the upper 3/8"...

     

     

    "Sharp" is not the right term for what I want. I know the problems with sharp edges... :)

    But a little but more defined holes with slightly rounded edges would be nicer than what I have at moment...

    I will pick a photo tomorrow

     

    Thanks for now

     

     

  7. 1 hour ago, JHCC said:

    Maybe things were different in Germany.

    :) :) :)

    Maybe, maybe :)

     

    The only new swageblocks you can buy here are made from "special cast iron" that's what the dealer wrote on his website...

    When I found the block, it had very rusty surfaces and so I tried to grind the flat sides clean. That was a very horrible job. It was like grinding hardened steel, absolutely inefficient...

    Can't remeber how the sparks looked like.

    The only information about the german swageblocks I found is this  "special cast iron" - statement

    Sounds like something like ductile... normaly if here is something made out of cast steel, they would tell it...

     

     

  8. Hi to all out there in the wide world...

     

    My swageblock has very worn edges around its square and round holes.

    I'm wondering if I could fix it by welding and grinding. Does anyone here got experiences with something similar?

     

    Greetings Sascha

  9. Hi to all out there,

    as many people I have a shop that is nice but space is very limitted. My forge is a very compact one and it is mounted on wheels. So I can move it in the shop around when it´s not in use. The other reason for the movability is that I´m going on markets for craftdemonstrations from time to time...

    Because I haven´t had a chimney in my shop I have to roll the forge outside, under the free sky and let it run there. Now I like to change this. My idea is to create a chimney thru the sidewall of the shop (indicated on the photo) and to find a way to easily connect/disconnect the hood of the forge to this chimney.

    The length of the way the smoke has to pass thru is about 5meters. I would choose pipes of 12 inches ID

    What I´m worried about is, if such a chimney will exhaust effectively enough to get the smoke and coal dust out of the shop without a fan? Does anybody have experiences with a temporarily connection between the forge and the chimney?

    How did you solve this point? How much chimney should I plan on at the outside?Front.thumb.jpg.efc1947d1073f8a072e4674b93daa56a.jpg

     

    Greetings

    Sascha

  10. Hi,

    Thanks to Anvil, Twigg als Frosty and all the others.  Sometimes I tend to bit on such details and as long I can't find an answer it could make me crazy...

    So thank you all for the patience! Nit at least because English is not my mothers language and so it maybe sometimes a little bit hard to find the right words to subscribe what I mean... I'm sure that, what I'm writing, often sounds a little bit clumsy for natural english speakers:)

     

    I think we found a few very good points here so far. I will find a projekt where I will try out the tipps I got here and then I'll show it here...

     

    At Anvil:

     

    Rack and roll is a good sentence for a Blacksmith-TShirt I guess :)

     

    Greetings from Germany

    Sascha

  11. Hi twigg,

     

    yes absolutely too much for shrinking, but also much too little for assembling. :)

    Alignment is always one difficulty and for that a little clearance is necessary. But far more than what is needed for an interference fit...

    I tried to make two more photos to show a little detail I found after looking at the original photo with a magnifying glass. Sorry the poor quality of the pictures but the originals in the book are not better:wacko:

    two.thumb.jpg.ebf4d7faa8f14978862b4089a6aa4285.jpg

    Above you can see a crop of one of the photos out of the first posting... can you see this round shadow where I marked it. For comparison I copied the area without markings.... Maybe a blindrivet?

     

    one.thumb.jpg.b3929f8fd9dc0b38151d9f4f4c63bbc4.jpg

     

    This is realy poor in quality but I guess you can see, that there is "something", a little irregularity could be a little welded region perhaps?

     

     

  12. Hi Thomas, I'm totally with you. It must be something like riveting or some welding points.

    Shrinking is in theory possible but I can't imagine that it will work here.

    I made a little bit of math about changing in length by heating up a bar with a 25mm hole in it.(see the photo)20201213_110810.thumb.jpg.6f7808ab2737d16b7da6c51b0a3d5c45.jpg

     

    If I'm not too wrong with that calculation, you can see that the diameter will only grow about less than 1/64"...

     

    This kind of measurements is a very unusually one in blacksmithing :)

    Ok let's say if your drift is well dimensionsed and you drift at the right temperature each time, each hole...the next challenge would be, the distance between the holes must be exact 0,0000mm the same!

    Ok let's imagine that someone can do this... now it comes the moment to assemble all parts together. You have now to bring up all 5 joints/holes to nearly orange-heat and slip one upright bar after an other thru all 5 holes into the right position .... and all the clearance you have about the 5 holes is that fraction of a millimetre . 

    Ok, what I heard about Alfred Habermann was that he was an amazingly good blacksmith, who knew all techniques and I won't say anything against that.

    But I think everyone can see what I'm meaning :)

    (Hope my english makes sense)

  13. Hi to all out there,

    There is a book named - Alfred Habermann - Blacksmith and Designer. It is a kind of an portrait and I think a friend of him wrote this book. There is almost no information about the techniks he used for the pieces shown in this book. And there is one thing Habermann made I evertime wonder how this all helds togehter:

    4.thumb.jpg.ebc259da96dad3a06b6468fee2ab820a.jpg3.thumb.jpg.0151b34727eacd2f49dbdf451dd78908.jpg1.jpg.96002bf7efae64a3089af7a50fdb7e9a.jpg2.thumb.jpg.3f2194e50d4fcddfab8a7649d468318d.jpg

     

     

    Does anyone know this gate? Or had it seen in nature?

    How does Mr. Habermann prevent the parts from slipping apart? As you can see on the photos, you can´t see anything there. They are not detailed enough.

    What do you think?

    Did he weld it at a few points from below, where it is not visible?

    Did he rivet the crosspoints and ground the rivets leveld with the edge of the holes?

     

    Grettings Sascha

  14. Inspired of the "Steven NY"-version I built two new stands for my vises. The smaler one is for rough forging working. So it got a wider bottomplate as the higher one that is more for benchwork, filing, bending and so.

    The main dimensions:

    small one - hight without the vise 690mm

                     - squar pillar 200/200mm

                     - Base 700/700mm

     

    high one - hight without the vise 960

                   - squar pillar 200/200

                   - Base 500/500mm

    As the higher one is not only higher but has also a smaler base it tends to swing/vibrate a little bit, so I added some bracings (red circle on the photo).

    Even though they are not soooo big, they make the whole ensamble much more stable than I thought. So I put some too to the smaler one for my own good feeling :)

    Greetings Sascha

    smalraw.thumb.jpg.a64936b87a2c637208f6d646fd622f22.jpgsmall.jpg.13e2fa8770c2bcb7d6e6b7c7e0eeb73f.jpgsmallnear.thumb.jpg.a275de454ce21b755fec3ffb1970d7b4.jpg

    Above the small one

     

    highraw.thumb.jpg.3a0c4ce2c617bf17e7223d809df63fbd.jpg

     

    high.thumb.jpg.d2c0eb5b73e9963d02133f15c945609c.jpg

    highnear.jpg.1276af5e49b571417178841472a1fa71.jpg

     

     

  15. Hi to all out there,

     

    few days ago I tried to make a basket twist, the traditional way. Meaning, that I split squar bar from all 4 sides and then go to twist it. Using my sharp hotcut chisle...

    However, if you punch holes in a bar using a flat surfaced slotpunch, you will shear off the rag/slug as the final step. But using a slitting chisle, hotcut ect. meaning something that has a sharp working end, a fairly big rag will develop if you slit from the opposite side.

    I found it a little bit hard to deal with this rag after splitting was complete, and try to file it away.

    But does anyone knows an easier way to get splitting without or with a minimum of rag?

     

    Greetings

    Sascha

  16. Got some toolings ready (over the last few days)

    An Anvil saddle, will be used for splitwork This piece was inspired by something I found in Otto Schmirlers book:

    558722496_Anvilsaddle3.thumb.jpg.15c57dfb1493b0b14becc1cbda1e549c.jpg

    My interpretation :):

    1954218898_Anvilsaddle4.thumb.jpg.50369be359b524e8357fcc0588393938.jpg

    278896659_Anvilsaddle5.thumb.jpg.eece84383718eac571e761bf1695b44d.jpg

    731008890_Anvilsaddle7.thumb.jpg.075ce42f460580f748d6758695264e13.jpg

    357960713_Anvilsaddle8.thumb.jpg.28d522b874cfba1cfe8902bf352c4080.jpg

    1218809555_Anvilsaddle9.thumb.jpg.41dd1dc5ff64047810f0406ed4090d73.jpg

    The plate is made from C45 (similar to 4130 if I´m right). A usefull projekt with some heavy-forgings, heavy weldings, heavy heattreatment and not at least: heavy desperation

    This was a realy heavy day :)

     

     

    Also made some chisles and tools for my treadlehammer:

    chisletools.thumb.jpg.0be4d32b9bcb5b506a6927d59cccf219.jpg

    TreadleTools.thumb.jpg.e988b0cc21001b966b20791b43ef488b.jpg

     

    And at the end of the session also did an often postponed repair of my old farrier waterbucket.

    When I started my career as farrier 20 years ago,  this was a gift from one of my first clients. And as I´m a little superstitious I feel better repairing this old guy than buying a new one. :)

     

    1506200511_Pott1.thumb.jpg.2973409c9fcf691f039f67fdd8c99a6d.jpg

    217149745_Pott2.thumb.jpg.55db3c0e3b749dd0aef394d23e93b8f6.jpg

     

    Mig-welded and tinned should rest for the next 20 years:lol:

     

     

    Greetings Sascha

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