Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Grantstew8

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Dunfermline, Scotland
  • Interests
    Teardrop trailer, Land Rover 1975, Morris minor 1969, woodwork, brewing, building and the rest

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Of course....MK II will include that suggestion. Thanks JHCC!
  2. As a newbie to this, I've been on a steep learning curve and enjoying every minute. I wanted a power hammer but can't make the investment so looked at an Oliver hammer. I've made one and before I get shot down in flames, it's a prototype, needs adjustment and modification. Please note that Heath Robinson is my mentor. The hinge needs to be lifted so the strike area is larger The striking hammer requires a more solid fixing, the cable ties are useless The anvil hammer head needs to be solid so it does not move The rope needs to change to nylon The treadle needs to be fixed to the frame so it does not move around The anvil needs to be closer to my forge The plumbers torch was simply for the video. I though you might like to see my video Oliver Hammer video thanks again for this brilliant resource.
  3. While looking for inspiration for my hammer I found this video and was a little surprised when I saw it. Rather large power hammer
  4. As I'm not in my prime, working on the floor is not practical. The base of the anvil above was not sturdy enough so I've modified it. 14lb Hammer anvil MK II. It is the right height off the ground, and is much more stable and easier to work on. The timber used is from the pallets bearers used to transport 8x4 plasterboard sheets. I've cut them to length and I can see I'll add hooks for hammer and tongs. As It happens this anvil has an oval shaft hole called a Laurel hole, (Laurel and Hardy.) I'm sure I could make a few tools that could fit...(I'm ahead of myself) The beginnings of a JABOD can be seen in one of the photos. I tried using a terracotta pot, but that's a different post. The blue car is a 1968 Morris Minor 1000cc 2 door. (with a red viper stripe)
  5. Thanks Frosty and Das. Appreciate the helpful comments
  6. To make green wood bowls on a pole lathe, I need some gouges and other simple chisels. Rather than order them I thought I could make them. Hence the basic anvil. Rather than spend hundreds on a proper looking London anvil, I’ve made one using a tree stump and a scrap 14lb hammer head I had in “stock”. This is a starter anvil and I’ll develope over time. The beaten metal was half a cross brace from ikea furniture; 5mm in diameter and mild steel. I heated in my wood burning stove, using wood….I had to try beating metal. It is not going to be used for anything but has a dragon head look. Next is the forge.... thank you for a fantastic resource, this website holds a wealth of information
  7. Hi After lurking for a week or so and thought I’d like to join up as there is some really great information on this site and I’m enjoying the tone and banter too. My interest is to make green wood turning tools for a pole lathe. A Railway track anvil will do; thanks to the fascinating post started by Mr C R Stevens. As for a forge, a JABOD appears suitable. I collect random tools so I’m sure one of the two dozen hammers I have will fit the bill. I’ve most of the safety kit for welding and grinding classic cars but will check in the relevant threads. Im based near Edinburgh in Scotland and although my father Is Scottish, I grew up in Africa, and somehow ended up here. Hence the inverted commas around Scottish; I don’t have the right accent but can drink like the rest of them.... After more research, blagging a short section RR line from somewhere and then I can think about starting. I’m reading some of the royalty free smithing books that make an interesting read too, despite the English being somewhat dated. thanks for a great site!
×
×
  • Create New...