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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by MTplainsman

  1. Thomas, this is why I am on IFI, so experienced people such as yourself will call me out on unrealistic or even idiotic ideas I may have. You are probably right, I am asking for too much out of one multi fuel forge. I am super Green at all of this and trying to compile as much good info as I can as quickly as I can... Maybe too quickly? I am listening to you all and keeping my mind open to all of you folks advice. Judging by this new info given, I will discard the idea of Charcoal with this new forge, unless others say different. Lets just figure on coal and coke with this forge... I am learning! Thanks for your patience and advice so far...
  2. >>>Guys, my apologies! I ment to say "side draft" NOT "side blast"<<< I feel like such an idiot I plan on using multiple fuels over the years according to availability (charcoal, coal, and coke) so I want to plan for the very hottest pot temps whether I use coke mostly or not. This forge will be for making a lot of small and medium size projects such as fireplace tools, hinges, lanterns, frying pans, fire pit irons, garden tools, small shovels, hammers, etc. etc. However, I want the capability (for larger projects) to use very high heat when I must forge new parts for machinery or weld heavy material for machine and equipment repair. In other words, I need a "Universal do it all" homestead shop forge. I plan on using the forge almost daily once I get up and running if that helps with your advice.
  3. I am upgrading from a cast iron rivet forge to a larger steel table side blast forge. I have the steel table and material for the legs, but I don't have a fire pot for it. I was going to buy a complete premade cast iron fire pot with ash dump and clinker breaker, however the price on such a beast is ridiculous! I will pay the big bucks if cast iron is the better material, but is 1/2" thick steel a better choice for longevity, or what do you all suggest??? Thanks my friends
  4. Thomas, I seem to be on the "it works" side of my anvil height. Not perfect but, I have to admit that I never had great eye sight and could always use a closer view of things for detail (even though I am 42 yo). I am trying to get a new anvil right now, and I will have to experiment a bit with the perfect height before I build a permanent stand for it. Trying to see if I can get a Holland two horn... Anvil, I had in my mind that you had a concrete floor like mine. Now I understand how there is basically no extra height. I like the fact that you are keeping as many tools on the same level as possible. Everything doubles as a support and this is what I am striving for. Also, I just might keep the knuckle high level as well. Thank you all for input!
  5. Hey George, it is true, I live in the "back of beyond" and also the most rural county in the lower 48 (Daniels). Farthest away from an Interstate, major city, etc. It is 130 miles to get to the nearest chain store. You understand the difficulties I have to apprentice and even acquire tools and materials. My plan after I get my new 260 pound anvil and the treadle Hammer, is to save up enough to go to a Blacksmithing school. I m thinking about Arrowhead Forge school in Buffalo, WY. Maybe you know if this would be a good place to school at for a beginning smith or maybe you know of better places within the MT, ND, WY, ID, SD areas??? PS, I need a little more time before I post pics of my shop area... I don't feel right in it's current state, lol
  6. I am just using a cast iron rivet forge right now and a 130 pound Peter Wright. I have had the anvil set at knuckle height since I started my hand at forging. My rivet forge isn't the same height as my anvil right now, but I am collecting components to build a larger side blast forge and I will have that at the same level as my anvil face. That way I can use the forge to support longer stock while I hammer or vise versa. Also, I have an adjustable stand I can use to rest long stock on any where I choose to position it. I have plenty of support options now. I do have an extra adjustable stand that I can dedicate just for the for the treadle Hammer as well. I am saving some scratch to purchase a 260 pound Holland Double Horn, hopefully this March or April. I am pretty excited about building a proper dedicated forging area. I have many, many questions to ask the folks on here as I go along... hope I don't wear out my welcome by asking too much too often!
  7. Anvil and George, Thanks again for the great advice... I just brought out a couple adjustable stands to use in the forge area several days ago. Anvil, doesn't the extra 7 or so inches from the RR tie base make it a little more difficult to reach the foot treadle?
  8. Appreciate the advice Frosty! I might just cut an old innertube to and stick under the base and try that first. However, silicone is incredible stuff and tougher that people realize.
  9. George N.M., I thank you for all your advice as it is has been helpful. I plan on most of my work being short and medium length sizes, but I don't know what I may try in the future. It would be short sighted of me to not plan for some larger projects as well. I suppose I should not anchor the hammer to the concrete right away until I have used it for the year. I also will take in account to keep obstructions out of the anvil's height level as well. Thanks again!
  10. George, you know the area well enough Not much up here but a couple stray dogs and a few souls wandering around trying to figure out how they got here... I noticed how dang skinny the hammer was too and thought about bolting it down in the concrete. Now, since you mentioned about the slight walking, I will definitely be anchoring the hammer. I have no plans on ever moving it anyways. One question to you or anyone... How much free space should I allow on both sides of the Treadle Hammer???
  11. Thanks for the welcome and advice Frosty. I will certainly follow your advice and keep it simple.
  12. I just don't have the time to build the hammer, nor is it easy to get the materials for it. I am definitely looking for a completely assembled hammer. I live between Scobey and Plentywood. A little below Sask and a little West of ND. Thank you for the great advice using the Treadle Hammer as well. I am ordering a pair of those 3 point tongs for gripping punches, chisels, dies, etc. So I can grip tight and still keep the hands out of the kill zone! Btw, I was looking at the Clay Spencer hammer (without paint) on Blacksmith Supply. I would save a little money buying in the raw. PS, I completely butchered the multi-quote. That's why this looks so funny. I don't know what I am doing, lol
  13. JHCC, I would consider a Fly Press in the future, but have hundreds of uses and ideas for just a plain old Treadle Hammer. Also, I want to purchase a completed hammer, though it doesn't have to be painted. Thanks
  14. Hello guys, This is my first post on IFI and also quite green in the Blacksmithing world. I have mostly tinkered with smaller things like S-hooks, Trammels, Campfire irons, etc. I am now ready to move up and get more serious. I am in the process of setting up my first real shop with a 14'x24' floor space. Anyhow, to be short about this: I need your best opinions on a high quality Treadle Hammer for my shop. I have it's empty place ready and waiting to place the new machine. I almost bought a Clay Spencer hammer, but maybe there is better out there? I want an in-line. I want quality. I want efficiency of course. I would also like to cap the price to about $2,000 give or take. I would sure appreciate any advice and/or suggestions. I am happy to be here with you guys and again I thank you!
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