Benona blacksmith

What I believe is wrong (I may be wrong here!) But the valves need to be adjusted. My 88 lb TZ Runfa has an adjustable arm the goes from the treadle to the valves.

The Kanka is drop forged from 1045 steel.

My plan is to cut into the face like the second photo and make a wider dovetail and I will use the thickest cutoff wheel I can get taking small passes gradually getting deeper.

Here is kinda what I'm thinking for the jig with the angle grinder. The gringer is a 9 inch and the wheel on it is only a 6 inch. I just have to get the bigger cut off wheels for it to reach the anvil.

Did Fisher ever make an anvil with a dovetail tool slot like the cutlers anvils?

I'm not sure honestly. I bought it mounted to a big bench with a wood lathe attached. I will see if the wooden table will come apart easily and see what's underneath. The radial arm saw is a great idea I hope I can make it work.

There is far more material to be removed than it looks. The way my file was skating off of it, it would take weeks of filing and probably a dozen files.

I ordered a set of these to make the jig the cut the dovetail with a grinder. I looked at my radial arm saw ant the anvil is too tall to fit under the arm.

So I took the best file I had to it and it just skates off like nothing. I dont think I will be filing this thing into shape anytime soon.

I believe the raised horn serves a few purposes. One is it makes for nice surface supported over the body of the anvil for drawing out stock. It also would be good for straightening long stock kinda like a sway in an anvil face. This particular anvil appears to have been used heavily over the hump.

Well this thing is a monster and I don't know of any shops around here that has a big enough mill. A shaper would be a good idea. I will do some research and see what shops have around my area. At one time we had quite the selection of machine shops but it seems like once a week I see an auction at a machine shop that recently closed its doors. I'm sure there is somewhere in Detroit that could pull it off but that's a 3 hr drive from me and I really don't wanna pay $1000 between shipping there and back and to have the work done. That would be more than I have into the anvil itself. Thank you for the suggestions!!!

I bought this anvil from a well known seller from Austria along with 5 others. The dovetail is virtually unusable due to some heavy use and maybe some abuse. I have NO intentions of doing any welding on it. My plan is to make a jig/slide for an angle grinder and use a cut off wheel to cut a new dovetail making small passes until I get it back to where it should be. Does anyone have any better ideas. also the edge that has the torch marks I plan on grinding back and making a nice radius. And the spots on the side of the body are not weld beads! I believe it is remains of "filler rod" that was forge welded in to blend the seams. I'm sure Joey Vandersteeg would have a better idea if that's the case.

I have the opportunity to purchase this press. I just wanna make sure it would do what a normal fly press can do. From my research it is rated at 20tons. Thank you in advance and I may not be able to reply till late tonight maybe tomorrow as were on a road trip.

Nice work. Is that a forge weld on the anvil face. Looks to be a 2 piece face?

That I did!!!

It was forged and left "normalized". I know D2 air hardens and this was caused by an almost missed blow with an 8lb sledge hammer.

So I found this thread when trying to figure out what to do with this block of D2 I had. I would say it is not a good steel choice for a top tool.

A few more tongs made for axe making.

If I had the extra $250 i would buy it. I've always wanted an anvil with the 5th foot.

My son had lyme disease last year and it is serious. He was in a lot of pain and hopefully things like fibromyalgia dont flair up later in life.

The pictures should explain how it happened. But i should mention this happened with a striker and an 8 lb sledge with a full blow.

A couple more axes forged today.

Today's work. I have a plan for getting the eye straightened out.

If there is ammonia in the glass cleaner it will neutralize ferric chloride so you dont wanna use it to clean the blade before etching! Use it after etching to neutralize the acid left on the blade.

Here is my wifes axe handled and ready for throwing. She stuck the target on the first throw!!!