materman

Well George N.M. I think you are the winner. Went out to the shop and put the grinder to the link and though I am no expert and have no known wrought iron to test, I believe that is what it is. Just a medium amount of small sparks with no linear structure or not much. Would never have thought they would have used this type metal to couple trains together, but I guess. Probably just keep it as a relic now for it is a cool piece of history.

George N. M. when I first found it, wrought iron was on my mind. But after realizing it was a link for a train car, I had to start wondering. I cleaned off the rust on a small portion when I got.it home but didn't see what I would call layering like on wrought iron. I might do a spark test to see what it has to say. And Daswulf, my boss owns thousands of acres which is littered with dozens of old homesteads and even ghost towns. So I have a large collection of old files, broken buggy springs hatchets and axes that I have been saving to make some stuff out of. Figured a knife from this stuff along with some copper or brass bits would be cool.

Had a question if I may. I am always saving good pieces of iron I find while metel detecting or out and about, and a while back I came across a link to a train car in a old dump. I figured it was a good piece to haul home to maybe make something out of, but have no clue to what metal I would be working with. All I know is that they must be pretty tuff to link train cars together. Any thoughts or answers appreciated.

Your probably write on that, but the piece is actually 9 3/4 inches. I just rounded it up to 10 for the sake of typing. 465 might not be right even for 9 3/4, but none the less one big chunk.

Thanks frosty for the input, I will indeed tame the edges a little when unloaded. Actually went and looked at a 7" x 8ft. round of 01 for a power hammer build I keep thinking of building. But figured this chunk I could haul home as is.

Just thought I would post a pic of something I found today that I plan on using for a anvil. Would have loved to find a good reasonable anvil, but the current prices can scare a guy, and being it is just for hobby use, I figured it would work just fine. It's a piece of 10" round stock 22" long, which was said to weigh 465lbs. Definitely a big piece of honken steel to haul 100 miles in a VW. I an thinking about cutting a notch out on one side to have a strait edge, but will see once mounted. First I got to borrow a cherry picker to get it unloaded. Will post pics when done.

Well I was in need of a stout vise the other day for a project and figured it was about time to mount my great, great granddad's Indian Chief vise down in its new home. It has been on an old work bench in a old shed on the back of the place and always looked all alone when I would visit the shed to rummage. I think grandad would be happy his tools are still in use after all these years. He had a blacksmith shop in my local town back at the turn of the century and died in 1929. It is a 5 1/2" Indian Chief with a 75 stamped on it which I assume is the weight for it was starting to get kind of heavy carrying it the long distance that I did. The screw is in good shape for its age and is now ready for many more years of service. I as well have his old petal grinder which I have always wanted to restore and only wish I knew where his anvil went. Dad was born in 39 and remembers seeing it when young, but never knew ew were it went. At least I have what I have and am happy. Just thought I would post a few pics. Sorry could only get one pic to upload.

Was getting the combine ready to go for wheat the last couple days, and had to rebuild the straw chopper. Got to changing the knives and figured I would save then to experiment with some day. Read on a old post on here that said the sickle blades on a combine were 1038 steel, so I took a grinder to a sickle blade, a chopper blade, and a file, and found the amount of sparks for the chopper blades was closer to the file then the sickle blades. Anyone else ever experiment with straw chopper blades? Go 40 strait blades out of the job.

A cheap 20' x 20'carport is what I have, and it seems to work fine. Size might be an issue with one though for after 20' wide, the snow load would be an issue. As mentioned as well, wind is another factor. I bought mine used, just two weeks old, for it had been ripped out of the ground and rolled across the yard. Had just been staked down with rebar stakes. I anchored it with bolts in concrete and never had anymore issues. As well it has carried some 12" snows and survived. At 20' deep, the two end walls carry a lot of the load. As for permits, there are still places around with no building codes. Fortunately I live in one of those areas.

Yes I know it was a bit much, but I couldn't pass up the cash and carry price. I figured extra setting around isn't a bad thing, and maybe once I get mine a going, someone else might want to build one and so I will have the ability to help them out.

I just bought a 50lb bag for whenever I get around to building my forge. Didn't want to do the math and it was dirt cheep, so just went that route. Should be plenty.

VW TDI's is the way to go! Mine has 418k and nephew sold his which had 660k and is still going. Both averaged 45 to 48mpg. The wifes Audi Q7 TDI is getting 28 highway which is pretty impressive for a full size suv, but is a bear to work on sometimes with all the bells and whistles. Indeed German engineering is a bit different then American.

Dad always told me not to play with the draw knife when I was young. Parents should never say such things to young boys. Had the wood positioned between my feet and yes one slip, and one chunk of leg was no more. Will carry that scar for the rest of my years. Still use one, but respectfully.

Good buy I must say! And I as well must agree that your work bench is pretty clean! Mine usually get to looking like....

I found a role that size on a online store that cost $60 with a coupon and free shipping. I jumped all over it.

Though I am far from being done with the inside work in my shed, I was finally able to put up me first wall decoration. Can remember my dad having this saw hanging on various shed walls for forty years, and now it has found a home in mine. He actually bought it new and to this day it has never been used. I have tried many things at least once in my life to at least say I have did that, but never a crosscut saw.

You can dig holes into the gravel floor and ether run the legs into the ground and concrete in, or concete in some anchors. Pour your concrete up to a few inches shy of the top of the gravel floor so you can cut them off later below ground level if need be.

Was preparing to build one myself and just use a couple LVL's for a top. Was thinking of mortise and tenoning some 4x4s for the lexs and supports, but don't really like the thought of putting that much time into it. Should be able to drill some holes in the bottom side of the angle iron and secure the top with screws. Angle iron legs would be the easiest unless you want to build some kind of bracket to securely hold 4x4s. Weld a piece of flatstock to the bottom of the angle iron legs and bolt it to the floor.

Many times when I can't make out writing on something, I take my phone and take a good picture of whatever it is and then zoom in to make out what it says. It has come in handy many times, and I say this for as I zoom in on picture #2 on my phone, it looks to me there is something and a TM written a little right of center and up a bit, and as well what looks like a something XX in the upper right. Just might be my eyes or other variables, but you might investigate it further.

OK this is my suggestion if had you two pieces. Now mind you I am not a professional at anything but farming. Farmers have to deal with different problems all the time, and sometimes that means getting creative. The measurements in the picture are proximate, for you have two pieces 19 and 1/2" Long. I would cut off a 11" piece for the horn, cut the other one to 16" and add the 3 1/2" chunk to the left over 8 1/2" piece. Of course this will not be a full penetration weld, that being under the horn part, I don't see too much i'll effects. Then weld up all joints and cut and shape the horn to your desired taste. Most of your forging will probably be done on the long 16-inch piece, and longer is better, so again I wouldn't worry about the full penetration weld. You could get creative, and take that piece of 1 3/4" plate and make you a shoe on the back of it with a Hardy hole, then build up some gussets under it. I believe it would work for its intended purpose till you can find something better. And if you wanted to build it all up on top and make a flat face you can do that too

I figured you being a heavy equipment owner and operator, you might have some welding skills. Let me get back with you and I will run some scenarios through my head and see if I could draw something up that might interest you. There might be a couple possibilities. And I don't think it would take that much time to weld up if you get some big Rod 3/16.

Seams to me in my thinking, welding roundstock together would be the easiest way to produce full thickness welds. If he was to stand two up together side by side, you could achieve a full weld by just feeling in the channel in between. Same as with roundstock laid on a flat surface, there it still a considerable void to fill in with weld that would be a full thickness weld. But maybe my thinking is wrong. I just see his two pieces with potential. And to meatman89, I believe 4 1/2"roundstock is around 54 lbs a ft.

If had been me, I would have cut the wedge off and welded it onto the top of a piece to make the horn, and then weld the other piece onto the horn piece. I have a 4' section of 4 1/2" I am making one similar. It will 3 16" uprights and a horn, and then be built up to form a rectangular face. Envious of the wedge for mine is just solid shaft. Good luck whatever you do.

I had to set traps to get mine,three just last year.a 2 bore would do a number on the meat lol. I try to give mine away to people that will eat them. Here is a pic of the destruction they can do. Picture was taken after filling in the burrow we are glass. The hole was 4 feet deep.

Buzzkill I appreciate your input referring to my original question. Not dead set on using then, been hard pressed finding anything better. Maybe I will go a different route until I find something more suitable. Wish I still worked at a junkyard. Maybe I will just use the 4.5 inch shafting I have, on end for one for the time being. Thomas, I know it probably sounds like I have bit off more then I can chew, but I love a good challenge. Was only going to go with a press for I do press bearings and bushings on for a mechanic shop and figured iwould design it so I could take the dye off and use it as duel purpose. But then I thought about it and thought why not just make both hammer and press all in one machine (my own design). Plan on driving the hammer with hydraulics as well for I am familiar with it and think I can get better control with it. As well want to incorporate a better clutch and brake system then a tire, but this is all for another thread. As for the 20x20 shed, it is actually a carport with the ends put in it. All my life all my sheds have had dirt floors. I fought groundhogs for years in this one, and finally last month was able for the first time to pour a concrete floor. Many would be appalled to use it, but yes others on here would consider it their dream shop, which it represents to me. Nothing I would want to brag about and indeed lots of room for improvements, but a whole lot better then anything I've ever had. Forgive me if I have come off errant, bostfull, of full of myself, for that is never my intentions. Just came looking for answers and appreciate the answers I got.