brian robertson
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Posts posted by brian robertson
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you could build one for under $200
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I've gone with a manifold set up with 2 40lb cyls. Still quite the welding machine. lean is definitely the way to go. A friend noticed very little dragon's breath and hardly much scale.
Frosty, what is the recommended mig tip size for a 3/4" burner? it's made from a 9" nipple with a 2" SS flare
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tried contacting Dave through FB, haven't heard back
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5 hours ago, Steve Sells said:
0.023 is way too small.... where did that size come from?
Dave's video. I've got no trouble welding with this forge; it's the frosting that's the problem
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mine are 3/4" burners not 1/2", same as dave's. the only difference is I didn't use the quick connect fittings
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I guess my problem stems from the fact I've been running a blown Mankel gas forge since 1974 and never dealt with frosted tanks/diminishing pressure (unless the tank was nearly empty and 90% humidity/90f) before. so as a newbie with atmospheric burners I was unaware of their limitations. I tried lowering the psi to the 6-8 that I running my Mankel and never got nearing a welding temp and barely into a good forging temp. I forgot to measure the internal cubic inches, but will later today. So will a larger or smaller C I reduce this frosting up? the burners have .023 mig tips, would changing that help?
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I built a couple of Dave's burners after watching his youtube video. Built a box horseshoers style forge body with 2" of k wool and ITC100. I slowly fired it to cure out any moisture and put it to work. Well, it flat out is a welding machine. using minimal Iron Mountain flux. I have stuck more welds on the first try in this forge, than any other gas forge in decades. Now the PROBLEM; it takes between 15 & 20 psi to get this forge to that yellow welding heat and those burners draw propane so fast, a they will frost up a 20lb cylinder in 10min, 30lb cyl in 12min, a 40lb cyl in 20mi and a 100lb cyl in 30 min or less. Is there something not right in adjustment? Am I expecting too much? What do you say Dave?
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you can NEVER have too much air for these hammers. 2 stage minimum, 7.5hp is better than 5hp but 10hp would be better still. An extra storage tank helps. used air dryers are reasonably priced and worth the money to keep water problems out of your valves and cylinder. if you cheap out on the compressor plan on standing around waiting for air, a lot.
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try to keep your tooling short, under 1 1/4" if possible and thin handles are your friend when you miss fire
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can somebody give me the dimensions for the wedges for the top die of a newer style 50lb LG? thanks
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are you starting with coal or coke? use water with coal and the coke produced; using coke no water is needed or used
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an old, experienced guy with a conventional wrecker with extendable boom can do amazing things. I have installed and uninstalled both a 50lb and a 100lb Little Giant hammers though a 6' 10" door way without a problem. it's all about finding the guy.
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well that makes me think though, say you had a bunch of 1'' thick plate, 8'' wide on hand, cut those to the correct length and stacked 8 of them, then welded the edges together before putting the actual die mounting plate on the top. Would that work as though it was a solid 8x8 block of steel?
because then there is no parts moving around to absorb or dissipate the force being put into them, same question goes for a stack of, say 40 ea. 1'' plate discs 9'' in diameter stacked and welded into a large block
just tossing that possibility out there
John Larson would the one to ask
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Wow. might be time to investigate the economics of shipping PHs to my neighbors to the North?
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start the offer at $500; you can always go up but it's tough to go down. Look very carefully for any cracks in the casting. one of the arms looks like a poor repair.also figure on replacing the clutch and repair/replacing the guides depending the abuse it's taken. the electric motor with low rpm or the jack shaft configuration to get the low rpm will be costly. consider installing a brake for more control; but that is an aftermarket option.
I think, if you buy this hammer and keep track of all your expenses, you'll go through $1000 or more, by the time your finished.
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if you like tinkering on old machines; you'll be happy. It needs a complete overhaul, possibly $1000 worth of parts and chemicals to restore to working condition. Generally in the States, a hammer that size, in good running condition, can be bought for $2500. How mechanical are you and what is your time worth. Offer scrap price
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I'm taking another load of L brand forge coke to SOFA next weekend. Offering quantity discounts. brian robertson
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Get with Josh at Big Blu and buy the upgrade; you'll be glad you did
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semi truck springs are usually .5 or better
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look up any Clifton Ralph/little giant videos
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usually a down draft forge is much larger and has a hood shaped like I/4 of a circle that would draw the smoke into a large air handling system. you have a portable rivet forge
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I tried to start a new topic/thread about upcoming ABANA conference but it didn't seem to work, no views no replies. has a left pointing arrow instead of a dot by it.
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Haven't really heard much about the conference. Any chatter about it? Anybody from here going? I have 4 days next week with no work, thinking about going but no info available as far as demo s or speakers.
Forge of July, Shelbyville, KY
in Events, Hammer ins, Where to meet
Posted
There is a Farrier/Blacksmith get together July 16 & 17. all are welcome
The Forge of July, Shelbyville, KY
Welcome to the first annual Forge of July!!! A farrier gathering offering Mini Clinics, Hammer-Ins, Hands-On Help, Tailgate Tool Swap, Demonstrations, Presentations, Q & A, Camping, Fishing, Hiking, Eating.
717 Burks Branch Road
Shelbyville, KY 40065
(phone: 765-491-2414)