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I Forge Iron

brian robertson

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Posts posted by brian robertson

  1. There is a Farrier/Blacksmith get together July 16 & 17. all are welcome

    The Forge of July, Shelbyville, KY
    Welcome to the first annual Forge of July!!! A farrier gathering offering Mini Clinics, Hammer-Ins, Hands-On Help, Tailgate Tool Swap, Demonstrations, Presentations, Q & A, Camping, Fishing, Hiking, Eating.

    Location: Clear Creek Park
    717 Burks Branch Road
    Shelbyville, KY 40065

     
    Contact Person: Danvers Child CJF
    (phone: 765-491-2414)
  2. I've gone with a manifold set up with 2 40lb cyls. Still quite the welding machine. lean is definitely the way to go. A friend noticed very little dragon's breath and hardly much scale.

    Frosty, what is the recommended mig tip size for a 3/4" burner? it's made from a 9" nipple with a 2" SS flare

     

  3. I  guess my problem stems from the fact I've been running a blown Mankel gas forge since 1974 and never dealt with frosted tanks/diminishing pressure (unless the tank was nearly empty and 90% humidity/90f) before. so as a newbie with atmospheric burners I was unaware of their limitations. I tried lowering the psi to the 6-8 that I running my Mankel and never got nearing a welding temp and barely into a good forging temp. I forgot to measure the internal cubic inches, but will later today. So will a larger or smaller C I reduce this frosting up? the burners have .023 mig tips, would changing that help?

  4. I built a couple of Dave's burners after watching his youtube video. Built a box horseshoers style forge body with 2" of k wool and ITC100. I slowly fired it to cure out any moisture and put it to work. Well, it flat out is a welding machine. using minimal Iron Mountain flux. I have stuck more welds on the first try in this forge, than any other gas forge in decades. Now the PROBLEM; it takes between 15 & 20 psi to get this forge to that yellow welding heat and those burners draw propane so fast, a they will frost up a 20lb cylinder in 10min, 30lb cyl in 12min, a 40lb cyl in 20mi and a 100lb cyl in 30 min or less. Is there something not right in adjustment? Am I expecting too much? What do you say Dave?

  5. well that makes me think though, say you had a bunch of 1'' thick plate, 8'' wide on hand, cut those to the correct length and stacked 8 of them, then welded the edges together before putting the actual die mounting plate on the top. Would that work as though it was a solid 8x8 block of steel?

    because then there is no parts moving around to absorb or dissipate the force being put into them, same question goes for a stack of, say 40 ea. 1'' plate discs 9'' in diameter stacked and welded into a large block

    just tossing that possibility out there

    ​John Larson would the one to ask

  6. start the offer at $500; you can always go up but it's tough to go down. Look very carefully for any cracks in the casting. one of the arms looks like a poor repair.also figure on replacing the clutch and repair/replacing the guides depending the abuse it's taken. the electric motor with low rpm or the jack shaft configuration to get the low rpm will be costly. consider installing a brake for more control; but that is an aftermarket option.

     

    I think, if you buy this hammer and keep track of all your expenses, you'll go through $1000 or more, by the time your finished.

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