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I Forge Iron

Dan_the_DJ

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About Dan_the_DJ

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  1. Sorry Thomas, I didnt get a reply notification. I might be able to, but thats a longshot. They dont keep steel scrap here, its collected and sent elsewhere to be recycled. I can buy regular structural steel in many forms from a depo nearby. That will have to suffice.
  2. Ill keep an eye out, but the chances of finding appropriate pieces are slim. Its a small place where Im from, not a lot of variety. Seems to me, the easiest thing would be to learn forge welding once and for all
  3. Much obliged. I had similar collapsing issues when I forged my first spear socket, Ill keep your advices in mind.
  4. So I dont need any tools other than a hammer and an anvil? Ive watched tutorials on forging pipe tapers before, but nobody seems to be aiming in the direction Im leaning towards. And literally every video on pilum making mysteriously skips the ferule, which is mildly annoying. Could I per say, start from a square pipe, forge one side a bit wider by thinning the walls and then finalizing the shape by inserting a tapered bar stock of appropriate size and hammering the piece around it till it sits flush?
  5. So thats what those things are called, thanks. I saw on another post that you used rr spikes, that seems like a lot of work though I havent done any forge welding myself, so Im stuck with forging out of a pipe. But I agree that would be the most logical method of production back in the day. Thanks for the info, Ill look around the forum to find how I might do that with the limited tools I have.
  6. Nice! Which size stock did you use to forge these out, was it round or square? Also, did you forge that tapered iron socket that goes over the wood and holds the shank in place? If so, how did you do it? Ive seen people bashing away at square pipe and cutting to a finished product giving me no idea how they actually did it. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  7. I was affraid of something like that... I guess Ill make it work through trial and error
  8. I understand, Im doing this only in good fun, to see if and how well it works
  9. You missunderstood me in the begining, I wanted to say that I would go about making the knife as you would a regular 1085 knife, with the exception that prior to HT, I would do the case hardening of the blade blank. Only after that would I attempt any kind of quenching and tempering, there is no point before the carbon is tucked in there But thank you very much, you have pretty much answered my question... My main problem will be uneven distribution of carbon. Is there a way to fix that? Maybe, heating the piece in an inert atmosphere to allow the carbon to difuse along th
  10. That is way beyond me sir I was thinking about making the blade blank out of mild steel alone, using stock removal/forging methods, then bringing it to its finished state before HT and then case harden it for a time to allow the carbon to penetrate as deep as possible. Ive been experimenting with thin pieces of mild steel, which soaked in carbon almost, or all the way through in the "case" hardening process. I personally dont see a problem doing it like this, maybe, after a number of sharpenings, some of the mild steel might get exposed on the edge making the knife unusable.
  11. I have another follow up question... Ive been experimenting with case hardening lately and Ive noticed that thiner sections can indeed be through hardened if left to carburize long enough... So, my question is, in a certain scenario, if one can not get steel for whatever reason, can said one make a decent knife this way? Thank you for your time, cheers!
  12. I might have been a bit unclear. The oven either leaves the blade too hard, hence too brittle, or just overtempers the heck out of them, and I end up with a softer edge. What ever I do, I cant seem to get into that sweet spot. I will try a differential temper next time, but about 1 cm from the business end of the blade, the steel aint that hard anyway, its because of the oil I use, I suppose. Its a bit of a slow quench for the steels Im using.
  13. Is there a recommended brand, or a specific thermometer that I should get? Will this do? https://www.ebay.com/itm/CDN-ProAccurate-Oven-Thermometer-Model-DOT2/231833873789 Also, wouldnt a lower temperature make my already brittle knives even more brittle?
  14. Hello everyone, Its been very cold for the past month or so, and I was forced out of my workshop, probably all the way till spring I havent made a knife or some other edged tools in a while, mostly because of the weather, but also because Im getting something wrong during the HT process, my guess being the tempering stage. I have to point out that Im using mystery steels for my projects, mostly leaf springs and old files. So I know the steel is more than adequate for what Im aiming for, but I fail somewhere along the way. Im also using mostly hand tools, with the ex
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