Anthony.Matson

Thanks for the information! I passed on it. Those are great ideas, Thomas.. thank you! I might set my sights on something like that instead.

Hey guys! So, I found a Vulcan 50lb anvil that I'm considering purchasing. The seller wants about US $3.00/LB, which is seems to be a good price.. I know Vulcans aren't top of the line, but I think it would be a step up from the 17lb RR track I'm currently using.. plus it has a hardy hole, which will save me a lot of work in drilling and chiseling. Do y'all think this is worth the price?

Thank you for the replies, I was pretty sure it was a usable material, but the addition of Aluminum was why I was unsure. It seems like it IS forgable but it will take some work. You bring up a very very good point, Thomas.. I think I will heed your advise, though I will probably remove a small section to get some experience with it before I try to make a "wow" piece or accent.

I didn't think about back pressure.. that is a good point, Buzzkill. Food for thought: based on the T burner plans, the correct depth of the mig tip when using 3/4 ID pipe should be 2.25 inches.. and in such a small volume system 1/16" is a lot. You could try setting the distance between the mig tip and the nipple to the same measurement for all 3 of the burners. If nothing else it will give you consistency in your flame.

Thanks, I'll be sure to check it often, Glenn. Happy new year to you as well, swedefiddle! Thank you very much for that information, I have signed up for their forum and will try to get in on those monthly get togethers! Longview is only a couple of hours from me.

I am not too familiar with propane forges, but I have some experience with pipe.. I could be wrong, (and please someone let me know if I am) but it sounds like you are pulling too much air. Do you have a machinist scale(rule)? If so, measure the distance between the mig tip and the pipe nipple from the inside. The distance between the two is important, as is the length of the pipe nipple(threaded end to threaded end).. but all of this is dependent on the Inside Diameter of the pipe.

What size pipe are you using? What are the lengths of the nipples? What is the gap between the mig tip and the nipple(not to the T)? Threaded pipe uses NPT threads, which are tapered. They have a tendency to not screw together all the way because of said taper.

Thanks SLAG and JHCC! I've read it a couple times already, but it can never hurt to review it again!!

I recently acquired about a 3"(Diameter)x10"(length) round bar of K-Monel. I have found a bit of information on here about Monel, but I haven't been able to find anything about K-Monel or Monel K500, a bit of information about it: Monel is a nickel-copper alloy containing small amounts of small other materials. It is extremely corrosion resistant and can be used for highly acidic systems. K-Monel has the properties of normal Monel, with Aluminum and Titanium added for extra strength. My questions: 1. Can you forge K-monel? 2. Does it get malleable enough to move by hand, or am I going to need a power hammer for this? 3. Would this hold up well as tooling? (Hardys, Butchers, etc.) monel-alloy-k-500.pdf Thanks in advance!!

Hey guys! I've been lurking for a while, taking advantage of this very valuable resource for a few months. I must say thank you to everyone here for the plethora of information. My name is Anthony, I go by Tony. During the work week I am a pipefitter, on the weekends I try to be a blacksmith. I've been forging for four or five months now, only making small things for around the house, but I am addicted. My current set up is a small brake rotor forge and RR anvil. Currently building a forge table and a partially enclosed space to forge (you've got to love all the rain here). I will try to get pictures up soon. Nice to meet all of you, and again thank you for all the information I've tried to absorb thusfar, and all I will in the future.

Awesome set up! Well laid out for the amount of space you have. Always nice to see someone local, too!