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I Forge Iron

partsproduction

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  1. Thanks guys. A friend came and checked resistance of the element and found it open. I took the back off and found where it burned up. So I guess I need to replace the element, the wire where it connects to the connector is .062", but the wires going to them throughout the bottom and up to the controller are 18 gage, but where they go from the SSR they are doubled, there and to the incoming power. Next project is determine the coiled length of the element wire and buy some. The break came right where the element goes from inside to outside, is it possible to make a connector? Or is the better course to determine the length needed coiled and do the coiling myself on the lathe? That way there would be no connectors anywhere except where the copper wires connect to the element. Remember, I don't know yet what I'm doing, but I can wind a spring so this shouldn't be much difference. Thanks, parts
  2. Thanks John. Communications with those in India (who are very willing to help) leaves much to be desired. In fact I've given up for now. Having spent quite a bit of money I'm thinking to replace the SSR first, and if that doesn't help I hope to change the controller. This time I'll investigate the choices with great care. With the Auber what steps are involved in simply starting the controller and setting a desired temperature? I ask because I did start this furnace at first but nothing I have done since has raised the temperature at all, and I'm thinking some break has happened. The only fuse appears to be on the controller's power on side, not between it and the elements.
  3. Here is a video sent from India showing how to program it; Guys is it necessary to program parameters to get it to turn on? It appears he is running through them after setting the temperature.
  4. I'm in oregon USA on the far left coast. But good news! I emailed the company in Mumbai India asking if a technician who speaks fluent English could talk me through the "secret handshake" of the i-Therm AI 7981 controller. They are very happy to help I find, which is good. They sent a phone number and tonight at 9PM I'll call, as that should be 9:30 AM there. Being a technophobe I often ask my brother to open up the secrets of technical interaction with devices, even so he also could make no workable sense of the manual. And as I said earlier , mostly the manuals I've seen appear to be similar. But I'm excusing myself. I know that someone familiar with this brand and model controller can tell me over the phone what I can't make out in the manual, and so far I've found no one in the USA who has one. It's highly likely that there are many such i-Therm controllers in use, I just don't know how to find anyone to talk with me about this, it does seem that entry procedures are different for different brands.. Thanks very much guys for your help, parts New message from India this morning; "Please send message by whatsapp instead of call. Because our technical team will not available at call." Always some secret handshake! I've never heard of whatsapp before today.
  5. Thanks very much for the responses. This thing has been driving me nuts. It looks like it won't get me kicked out to show the controller's manual URL. https://webmail.centurylink.net/service/home/~/?auth=co&loc=en_US&id=95428&part=2 To be painfully honest manuals for other controller brands seem similar, that is, written as if a prize is awarded for brevity and obscurity. It's possible too that I'm far more stupid than most folks I suppose, though I've written many hundreds of CNC programs. I admit I also find FANUC manuals are also hard to understand. Today I looked into buying another brand of controller, but it's not as easy as it seems, there are many variations and possibly only one correct choice, and, as I said, the manuals look about the same. One thing that would be worth a lot would be the ability to change to Fahrenheit. It doesn't seem like much but it's irritating having to do the math every time swapping C for F. American and European controllers run in the $500+ price range, so some accommodation might be worth the price difference.
  6. I've left it sit for 30 minutes at a time, checking for life after various inputs. The "manuals" for these pid controllers made in India hardly deserve the name, I've learned a great deal more about them in youtube. I'm hoping for a description using an i-Therm PID controller of what buttons are pushed step by step inputting a simple program. Let's say start at 20C for 5 minutes, ramp up to 300C, hold 300C for 1/2 hour, then ramp up to 815C over 30 minutes, then hold 815C for 30 minutes, then shut off. The one i-Therm pid video I found is done by an Indian with heavily accented English and very fast too, so also very hard to follow. BTW, there is no toggle for Fahrenheit, and that's according to the manufacturer. At this point I'm considering starting with a controller I can afford AND which has a manual (and or a good video) that's more clear, then buy that and wire it in place of the i-Therm.
  7. " I wonder why a good muffle furnace would end up on E bay? " This was a new furnace, but bood, I don't know. I may just be havinf trouble breaking the secret handshake code. I messed with it a while ago and the timer is counting up. No heat yet though.
  8. Hi, Please help a new guy with his stupid question. I bought a cheap 240V electric muffle furnace off ebay. The furnace seemed to work well when I first got it, but since the first firing to about 300C I'm unable to even turn the elements on, much less program it. I've been able to get it to the point where indicator lights show it's under load but it doesn't heat up at all. The controller is an i-Therm AI 7891. Scrolling through youtube it seems that while many commands are universal some are unique to their brands. I downloaded the "Manual" which seems very opaque to me, I can hardly make heads or tails of it. So, my question is this, does anyone here have an i-Therm 7481,7781, 7791, 7681 or 7881 controller who is willing to help me figure out how to program it or even to simply bring it to temperature? Is it possible for the controller to show itself under load without actually getting hot? If it's not a rule violation I can show the pdf of what's called a manual, or just google i-Therm AI 7891 and you'll see a pdf of the sheet. Should I just choose a controller with a better manual and wire it in? Thanks for reading this, and thanks for any constructive responses.
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