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I Forge Iron


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Posts posted by Kellerbomb

  1. I'm not sure yet of the amount of thermocycling involved. When we are operational it will run every weekend, so will probably maintain temp for steam pressure over the weekend then cool down during the week. It definitely does get hot enough to create clinker, however the quality of the coal we use reduces how much I've encountered. This engine hasn't run since about '67 and this is the first engine that I have been a part of working on so I am learning as I go. I am unsure of the gauge of the ashpan currently. I'm in contact with individuals who run locomotives, but not with anyone that has done the conversion before so it is a bit of an experiment for us determining the extent of the changes that need to be made. When we decided to roll with coal we had a committed free source of coal, however with the political winds being what they are, we have access to coal considering the area with live in but the cost has definitely gone up considerably above "free". Fire brick usage is definitely doable I'm just glad to have this discussion with folks who are familiar with the products.


    On 2/4/2021 at 8:14 AM, pnut said:

    Could you line it with insulating firebrick like Morgan Thermal Ceramics K-26 IFB?  That way you could change out any portion that might become damaged a little easier.

    That was discussed, but from my understanding the firebrick would deteriorate faster than the refractory. I'm open to being educated if that isn't the case. Thanks for the input pnut.

  3. Short story is that as part of my job I've taken over a project of converting a narrow gauge steam locomotive from burning oil to coal. One of the problems that has come up is that the ash pan liner is buckling. The theory is that steel wasn't designed to contain hot ashes in close proximity. One solution is to basically weld some wire on the walls and then cover it with a refractory that can withstand the temps and movement that comes with an engine. Any suggestions?

  4. 17 hours ago, Nobody Special said:

    If all you are concerned about is a large striking anvil, have you considered obtaining a block of 4140 or some similar? When striking with a hammer that large goes awry, it can be tough on the anvil. 

    Thanks for the info. I do have an 80 pound chunk of mild that I have made into a striking anvil, but I have not finished the hardy hole in it yet. Such a thick piece is proving to be daunting.


  5. I have browsed through the forum casually. I know of the quality of the Peddinghaus, however the discussion I was wanting was in reference to the other two "as a brand". In your opinion, is there a reason you would pick one over the other? I realize my 150 pound Hay Budden will suffice for everything I do or will do in a non-production capacity. The search for a nicer/larger anvil is to aid in the usage of a sledge in tool and hammer making. The pride factor also can not be ignored. There was also clarification today that the Reff is actually a Peddinghaus and the only reason I would go that large is because it's a good deal.

  6. Those are the options I have locally to that I don't have to pay shipping on. I'm not opposed to other brands, just wanting to get opinions on those options that are available close. Depending on price I'm considering minimum 160 with the option up to 275 pounds for the Reff that I have available. 

  7. 28 minutes ago, arkie said:

    Nice HB anvil.  Treat her kindly, now.  Yeah, you might want to secure her down to your base lest it bounce around on you.


    1 minute ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

    Yep, some latex calk around the base would do it 

    Still working on what hold-down design I'll go with, and the caulk is a definite.

  8. The other surface I've seen from Brazeale and Steele is the "striker plate". Mild steel plate with a hardy hole for striking with something like a heavy sledge so that mishits aren't as dangerous. I have come upon a 2 inch thick piece of round mild steel about 16 inches in diameter that I am currently trying to find a way to make a hardy hole in that I will use as a striker to go along with the london pattern anvil I picked up today.

  9. 10 hours ago, SpankySmith said:

    Where in East Tennessee?  I went to college in Jefferson City, so you're in that vicinity somewhere?

    I'm in the northeast corner in Elizabethton. The closest city that folks from out of state may recognize is Bristol because of the Nascar Speedway. 


    18 hours ago, Frosty said:


    Coal or charcoal is WAY less expensive than oxy acet though you'll want the torch for closely localized heats. I'm mostly a propane forge guy though solid fuels have serious benefits, they all have their up and down sides.

    What do you want to make?

    I'm using oxy/acet because I have it. Just bending mild steel plate and bars for maintenance projects but I'm wanting to make some wall hanging decorations, a couple knives and later possibly graduate to making a gate for the backyard. I'm hoping to meet up with some local guys and try out their forges before I invest in making the decision between solid fuel and gas.

  10. Hello all, another budding hobbyist joining the site. I don't know why I am drawn to starting another hobby, like leather working, drone flying, falconry, hunting, fishing, computer building and guarding six daughters wasn't enough for me already.... I guess the spirit of the DIY runs strong in my veins. I am currently a maintenance guy at a christian camp and a prior aircraft mechanic with some law enforcement thrown in the mix. We run a railroad at our camp and so I am starting this hobby with all my shop tools and a 24 inch piece of heavy gauge rail on end as an anvil. Since the dollhairs are tight (dang kids want to eat again??? I just fed them yesterday!) I am probably going to graduate from my current oxy/acetylene cutting torch/rosebud setup to a coal forge shortly since it's the most economical in my situation and I can also source coal and coke basically for free. 

    Been lurking for a while and figured it's time to say Hi.

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