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About NCHammer

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    Miami Dade County, Fla

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  1. I quenched in vegetable oil at nonmagnetic and then put it in the oven at 400 for two cycles about 3 hours each. Thanks for the suggestion on the grinders I'll look into some of the 4x36 grinders. I've been trying to look at some 2x48 grinders but most are fairly expensive.
  2. Hey everybody, I just finished making my first knife. I had an awesome time and learned a lot along the way and am looking forward to my next build. I’d love to hear what you guys think, what you like or don’t like about it. And especially how you think I can improve it. It’s 1095 steel with a brass pin and teakwood handle. PS. This is my first attempt at making a knife. It was a lot of fun and learned a lot. Still have to bring the edge up to a fully sharpened but I’m awaiting a sharpening stone. I used a small 1x30 inch belt grinder and is severely under powered and I could only source 80 grit belts, so it was chore to get any significant scratches out. I would love a suggestion for a more professional belt grinder, that would be suitable for my needs. Which will probably be smaller knifes but possible a sword in the future? Thanks in advance.
  3. I have plans to make a pattern welded steel knife, I purchased some 1080 and 15N20 online. I wanted to practice forge welding with four 3 in long pieces of 3/16 in x 1.5 in mild steel. I held it together with REbar wire and fluxed it with mule team borax. I was unsuccessful, which I suppose isn’t surprising as it was my first attempt. I’m worried that my single burner propane forge may not get hot enough for forge welding. My process was as follows: first I ground the faces of the steel, then wiped them down with acetone. I tied the billet with the wire and gave the forge time to heat up and put it in the forge till they a dull red then fluxed it. I left it in the forge till it was yellow then brought it out fluxed again a gave it several light taps at which point I thought the preliminary weld had set. I fluxed and put it back in the fire. At yellow temp I went at it with some heavier blows and at this point the pieces started sliding and the wire had burnt through. In the next heat I lost the outer layers of billet fell off and I was left with two pieces which I attempted and fail to weld. I just want to see you anyone sees any obvious flaws in my process. Any pointers? Also are 1080 and 15N20 easier to weld than mild steel? Should I practice with a simple folded piece of steel and try to forge weld that? Thoughts?
  4. I bought some 5/8 in REbar at Home Depot I tried to make a hardy tool and it came out ok and I quenched it in water, then tempered it at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 4 hours. I guess there were some cracks but it definitely broke like hardened steel. Does this mean it can be used to make a knife?
  5. Ok, I will try that. Thanks for the quick reply!!
  6. Hello, I had a quick question about making a Damascus steel billet. I would like to attempt to make a billet of Damascus but I don't own or have access to a mig or tig welder. Ive seen some people do it using a wire and holding it together that way. I was wanted to ask what gauge wire any of y'all that I should use. Also I was thinking about trying to braze the stack but I assume It would just burn off. If not, do you think it would work better than the wire. pls Let me know
  7. Yes, the hardy hole is 3/4” and it also has some junk I gotta clean out of it, but beside that is looks pretty good. I haven’t done a ball bearing test but I did test it with a couple light blows with my 3lb cross pein hammer. The rebound is pretty good, but not as good as some videos I’ve seen. The ring after the impact is not sustained for very long. But I assume that has something to do with the table it’s on. I’m guessing doesn’t allow the anvil perform as it should, not having solid mass all the way to the floor
  8. Ill share my setup now that I have the anvil. I’m planning on making an anvil base made of 4x4s within the next day or two before I start using the anvil
  9. It arrived a while ago but I haven’t had the chance to use it yet, it arrived in good shape, rings well, and the hardy hole seems to be pretty much square
  10. Thanks for all the great advice, I think what I’m going to do is go with the cheap acciaio anvil. It’s fits my situation well because I would have to move the anvil before and after each use so the light weight will actually help make that easier. And looking for an ASO or an old anvil will take up time, time that I can use for forging. I usually don’t get more than a couple hours of free time a week, if that.
  11. You have an excellent point and one that I hadn't thought about before. I don't have tons of money to spend on this and would really like a decent setup. I found this anvil on amazon, it weighs 66 lb and costs $150.It has a cast steel face and a cast iron body, would you recommend this over the ductile iron anvils. It is a little lighter than I wanted but it would mean I have more money to spend on those things you mentioned.
  12. Those are a little out of my price range. One question I had about those other anvils is if there is a benefit to having the hardy on the back of the anvil or at the begin being if the horn?
  13. Thanks for the responses but I think I might go for a new anvil. I am currently looking at these, and would really appreciate some insight on them. NC 70 lb. Standard Anvil NC 70 lb. Short Sugar Anvil NC 70 lbs.Knifemater Anvil Cliff Carroll 70 lb. Anvil If you have any other suggestions, I'd love to here them.
  14. I'll only be up north for one weekend in November so I won't be able to make the FABA Conference. I really would prefer to have to get something that I wouldn't really want to replace for several years, but I have considered some other Improvised anvils. The easiest thing for me to get would be be a large structural steel I beam., though I'm not sure how well of an anvil that would make. Would you recommend the anvil with a cast iron body and a cast steel face? Like I said I'm looking for something that I can be using for he next 5 years.