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I Forge Iron

DHarris

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About DHarris

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Purcell, Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Tuning perfectly good scrap into amorphous blobs of burnt steel at the moment.

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    Vibriomimicus@yahoo.com

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  1. I have never had to deal with an HOA. Our last house would have been the first, but we sold it before it started. The development had to reach a certain percentage of completion before it would begin. Our back neighbor would have certainly been at its head. She was a nightmare. My problem with neutralization is mainly container size.
  2. How long would it take the gravel to stop smoking? I experimented with four small pieces of WI yesterday. Two hours in muratic acid made it so you could you could see a difference in coloring and direction of the grain, but didn’t make the texture different. Three hours in a mixture of vinegar, H2O2, and NaCl seemed to etch much more aggressively. The grain was apparent to both the eyes and touch. My trial also made another thing horribly apparent. My skills at forging stink. Cracks which were not visible before etching were clearly visible. Spots where I had let the iron twist
  3. Well the one which was a bit heavy is no longer a problem. It has walked away. If I were my dad, I would say one of the grandkids was playing with it and lost it. Not being my dad, I am sure it was just me that lost it. The face would not stick on the smaller one. I will give it another go in a few days.
  4. I wonder how it went? I have a pool, so muratic acid is something I always have on hand, but am not sure I would want to use it for etching, especially if it was just a one-off thing. It isn’t extremely dangerous, but it can be. Neutralizing it isn’t all that easy and you can’t just dump it in the yard or down the drain. What about vinegar and hydrogen peroxide? Mixing them produces peracetic acid, which isn’t 100% safe. It will burn your eyes and lungs if you breath the vapors, but not nearly as badly or as easily as muratic acid can. You can add NaCl to speed up the react
  5. No, you were right. A mild steel scribe worked great. It scratched the decarb areas , but wouldn’t after I got down to smooth steel. Maybe a 1/16 of an inch down. Thanks for the tip.
  6. That is what I thought. Trial and error. I think I will try Frosty’s suggestion and I pray it works. What I had been planning to try was roughly what Thomas said. I was really not wanting to have to go that route. I am dreading the HT step as it is. Being a noob, I fully expect the faces to crack or pop off in the quench.
  7. I finally got around to putting the faces on the first body. I attempted the traditional way, but gave up after a couple of tries and resorted to tacking them on with an arc welder. Question: I lost the hammer in the fire at one point and took a little too long finding it. One of the faces was sparking pretty good by the time I managed to scrape it out. Is there a way to tell how much of the face I will need to remove in order to get down past the burnt steel short of trial and error? The spring steel I used was an inch thick. I wanted to have a large margin for error when grinding,
  8. It has been a little over a year since EDL made the above post and EDL hasn’t been back since last December, but it might save time for someone else to know Jeremy said in a video he will not be putting out any plans for modifications to his grinder to take contact wheels larger than 10”. It is fairly early in this video where he explains why.
  9. Fly presses were mentioned on the first page. I’ve come to believe I would have an easier time finding and purchasing a unicorn than I would a used fly press here in Oklahoma.
  10. I finally got around to cutting the billet in half. It has a rather significant area in the middle which didn’t weld well. (It doesn’t look that dark. I sanded it and left the grit in to make it show up better. The other half of the billet has the same problem. Do you think I could heat it back up and get rid of it? It does not run all the way to the other end. The block is 2 & 14/16th of an inch long and each end is 1 & 9/16th of an inch square. The face is from a Ford truck leaf spring. It is 15/16th of an inch thick. I will slice off the red marked are
  11. I was thinking wolf doing the same thing. Others see a hare.
  12. This is where I have taken it so far. I need to work it some more to remove all the sloppy hammer marks and true it up. The flat bar is 3/8” x 1.5 inch I am trying to draw out wider and flatter without increasing the length. Not such a success so far. I will need to practice with JLP’s video’s on directional movement to practice with again. It is tending to split, but that is likely poor heat control. Eventually it and another piece riveted to it will form a busIness card holder. The second picture is after I cut the end off the hammer blank to remove the tack welds. It
  13. How about this one. My daughter took the picture. It is sort of fuzzy. Does Piglet count? Do heffalumps and woozles like pork?
  14. I’ve been working slowly. I now have the blank at 8” long x 1 3/4” wide and 1 1/2” thick My plan now, after I forge weld the last bit of flattened wrought iron to the blank is to use a fuller some what like the Black Bear Forge guy did to make two hammers from one blank. I hope to be able to fuller it in the middle so the hammers are diagonal peens first I have to fabricate the fullers. I am thinking angle iron with bits of other steel welded inside the V’s to add mass to them? Would a better method to make the fullers be better? Should I fuller the blank with the blank a
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