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I Forge Iron

RogerrogerD

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Everything posted by RogerrogerD

  1. Looks like a fantastic anvil in fantastic condition. I cant remember seeing one with a round hardie hole. Strange. But not the end of the world. Are you intending to use it or sell it?
  2. Keep looking. I’m in UK and got a 5cwt Brooks for £200....
  3. A bit of BLO on the body as is and use it. No need for anything else. It ain't going to rust away anytime soon and provided it’s not sat in the rain every day you’ll be fine. Edges look a little chewed though..hopefully you can still find some clean edges on it somewhere.
  4. Hi, fellow Brit here. It won’t be cast iron. “Cast iron” is too brittle. It’ll be cast or wrought steel. Looks like a nice anvil. It looks wrought to me, and therefore I would guess quite old. Maybe mid to late 1800s. I’d say the face will be probably forge welded hard steel and in the first pic I sort of see the line at the level of the front table, about 1cm thick. Normal. The texture of the face looks to me like a combination of normal work and some rusting at some stage in its life, giving it a slight stippled effect. The edges look really very good, unusually good for an old anvil... a
  5. Looks like burnt carbon steel to me, caused by overheating. Spring steel has highish carbon and more likely to “burn”. Burning can cause “goops” of steel that look like “cottage cheese” to some people I guess. The burning effect will damage steel up the bar beyond the goopy stuff, which is why some is fracturing on you. I’m guessing you were using a coke or coal forge rather than propane which is I think a bit cooler. If you are using a coal/coke forge, maybe get it nice and hot and them turn off or dont blow the air as you stick the steel in. Less oxygen I think you’ll be less likely to ca
  6. Looking carefully at the third picture, it does look to me like a hard steel plate has been properly forge welded on the top, so it doesn't look “fake” to me. Just poor quality body perhaps. A hardy is nice to have, but not essential, perhaps. If you have a use for it, keep it, if not some beginner blacksmith would probably take it off your hands. I think the brand is Australian... if you google back you’ll see an identical anvil with an identical flaw here from 2015, amd reference to an earlier post with again a broken heel on the same brand. Looks like they were simply a poor make.
  7. Aluminium doesn't hammer well. You cant really forge it at all.. Brass will do, but only in certain circumstances and not like steel. Copper work hardens, so you need to anneal frequently and it doesnt really move like steel. Plasticene works on a very basic level to see how metal “moves”. Steel is cheaper than copper and brass, so you dont save anything. Get some scrap steel and get hammering.
  8. Interesting differences. Im in the costwolds and its not my experience round these parts, but I admit to having limited experience. Or I’m mixing with the wrong bunch of sassenachs. ;- )
  9. If you can afford the price and you can move it about easily enough, buy it. It looks like a good anvil and it won’t lose its value. If money or shifting it is an issue then look again. Don’t be embarrassed to have a tool that could outperform your current skill level (if that makes sense).
  10. FWIW, I’d say use it. As a tool it was meant to be used. My anvil is nowhere near as old as yours, but it gives me a thrill when I use it as it was intended 100 years ago. Id love to make something with a tool that was 300 years old. What a buzz that would give. Yes you could damage it, but hey, its lasted this long, it’s tough! Whatever you do simply adds more to its history.
  11. Speaking politely... how patient is he for his knives? I’ve been blackmsithing for nearly a year and I’m a long way off being capable of doing a set of knives that I could give anyone... Learn to walk before you commit to making knives.... if it were me I’d be up front, take the anvil, but be clear it’ll take you some time to learn the skills. Offer him some hooks and bottle openers to start with.
  12. I’m getting a washer, which I’ll leave in if the bearing wont keep tight. But thanks for the heads up.
  13. New thrust bearing from China arrived. Not bad for $6. Works a treat, but going to back it up with a washer with a bigger outer diameter (85mm)
  14. So I think this will work without a thrust bearing or washer if it has to. But in an idle moment I measured up the dimensions for a thrust washer. Came to 45mm internal dia and 65mm external dia.(sorry, a Brit here working in metric). I could make a washer up easily enough I guess, but I fed those dimensions into ebay and amazon , just for the xxxx of it, in case I could get a washer cheap through amazon. Not surprisingly I drew a blank, I had assumed those dimensions for a 100 year old or more object would be esoteric. But, but...at the bottom of the page was offered a thrust bearing, of
  15. Yep the jaws will close completely if I squeeze by hand so it must be the mouse’s walnut in the box... I’ll take a stiff bottle washer to it this afternoon. So I gave the screw box a thorough clean out, and regreased it lightly. Refitted, no different, still not quite closing. On a whim I then took it apart again and refitted it with the “key” on the screw box down rather then up...and guess what, it closes.... I can't think that there is any negative on which way up the screw box is fitted.. the space it slides through between each jaw is slit snd drifted and not precisely machine
  16. It didnt have a thrust washer when I got it.... I found a modern one on line for just a few pounds that weirdly has the right dimensions. and its on order, but tbh I’m scratching my head.
  17. Of course silver and deming drill bits with a half inch shank and a flat ground on it should work too, so I’ll give that a go. Having a problem finding or making a suitable spring for the pawl... so for now I’m using a piece of string with a weight on the end as a a temporary fix. Works fine!
  18. i should have said the online stores sometimes vary a lot in price.. worth doing a comparison before you click the final button.
  19. You're gonna need a bracket to fix it to a stand of some sort...and the bracket on a traditional vise incorporates the top of a normal spring. A normal spring meeds nothing at the bottom other than an ear on either side. So do you have a bracket and if so would it hold the top of a traditional vise spring?
  20. I’d buy a post vice in poor condition and salvage the box or box and screw. I’ve seen some in the past that were really sticks of rust but becuase the screw threads were the only thing still covered in a layer of grease and somewhat protected from the elements, it meant as components they were fine. Get a box and a screw and you dont need to worry about a match.
  21. Yes, You need a wedge piece to go behind the “key piece” that is already in there. You tap it in and it holds the whole vice tight. Looks like this, but dimensions not too critical.
  22. Finally got it apart. There was a little “nub” of steel under the screw holding it to the pillar. I replaced it with a brass nub. A lick of paint and a while fiddling with a new pawl spring (which I expect to fiddle with some more), the here we are. Not quite perfect, but I learnt a lot on the way. I have on order a 1/2” straight shaft arbour to fit a jacobs chuck, so once I get a face milled in the shaft, it’ll use modern bits as the old one are now impossible to get. A few other tweaks but not much left to do. Very weird gearing. Perhaps not weird but..
  23. It could well be a Peter Wright. But no markings anywhere.
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