Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Gustav

Members
  • Posts

    67
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Småland, Sweden

Recent Profile Visitors

1,197 profile views
  1. 80crv2, and cocobolo and brass.
  2. Gustav

    First bowie

    JHCC, it's the third largest province in Sweden (out of 25) at 29 330 km^2 (~11324 mi^2) but compared to most states in the US it's quite small, yes. Everything is bigger in the US, right? And Frosty, thanks for letting me know!
  3. Gustav

    First bowie

    George N.M. Wow, that's interesting. I also have ancestors that immigrated (also from Småland) around the time your grandfather did. I might have heard about a Månsson sometime, but Småland is very big. It's a big chunk of southern Sweden. Buzzkill Okay, it might be the sharpening angle. I thought "oh this is a chopper so it must have a really high angle" but I might have gone too far. I will keep that in mind!
  4. Gustav

    First bowie

    Buzzkill - Ok, what angle did you aim for?
  5. Gustav

    First bowie

    Buzzkill - It stays sharp, but that's good to know. I chopped a lot of wood when trying to get it in place for the picture and it didn't lose any sharpness. I just couldn't bring it to shaving when I sharpened it in the first place.
  6. Gustav

    First bowie

    Thomas Powers - Forgot about that. 80CrV2 quenched in canola oil and tempered at 200°C 1h x 2
  7. Hey guys! This is my first "weapon", a 35 cm long bowie. It's also the biggest knife I've made so far. The blade has a warp and the "brute de forge" might have been too much. I could probably also have ground and polished the guard and pommel a bit. They were cast in a metal I don't know the name of in English, but it's 85% Cu, 5% Sn, 5% Zn, 5% Pb. It also doesn't really shave, which is a bit lame. I went from 300-600-1200 on diamond stones and finished on a strop with green polishing paste. Go finer? Make sure you have a small angle? What do you think?
  8. Thanks guys! You might have noticed it too, but my main problems are 1. The brass spacers between the ziricote and bocote don't line up on each side of the tang. And 2. The brass could've been finished better Regarding the "stubbyness"; no offence taken!
  9. I've been blacksmithing for almost 3 years, the last of which has mostly been bladesmithing and during this time I always had in mind that I was going to give my dad a knife when he turns 50. It's my first knife I've given away, my other knives are mostly for display (to remember the mistakes each one had) except for my first kitchen knife, which I use every time I cook. They've all been pretty simple. One full-tang and the rest hidden-tang. Turns out, my dad liked the full-tang knife the most, so it had to be a full-tang. So here it is; 80CrV2 finished to 600 grit, brass, ziricote, bocote and mosaik pins, oiled with boiled linseed oil. By far the best looking knife I've ever made, with minimal mistakes (compared to my other knives). Just a bit scared of the unstabilized wood I used. Last full-tang knife I made had wood that shrunk an insane amound, not just so you can feel the edge and the pins, but actually see how far everything sticks out. Fingers crossed! What do you think?
  10. Hello! I've had a couple of cheap whetstones (120/400 and one 1000/3000) with a leather strop (with green compound) for quite some time now and I started to get tired of them curving and creating one huge muddy mess when sharpening many knives. It works, but it's a pain xxxxxxxx sometimes. So, I bought a 300/600 grit diamond sharpening stone from Dianova, but it feels like it wont be enough. When you have a newly made knife and want to create the secondary bevel from "no bevel at all", do you think the 300 grit side on that diamond stone will suffice, or will it be too fine of a grit? Maybe getting a extra-extra coarse diamond stone like 120 will do? Also, will the 600 grit be fine enough to go straight to the strop? I'm looking to get shaving sharp edges. Other than that, I'm not interested in "Oh this was sharpened on a 30 000 grit stone wohooo". Maybe getting a 1200 grit diamond stone to use between 600 and the strop? So: 1. Will a 300 grit side on a diamond stone be coarse enough to effectively create edges on newly made knives? If not, what grit will be the most suitable before 300? 2. Will a 600 grit side on a diamond stone be fine enough to go directly to a strop to get shaving sharp edges? If not, what grit-steps are required after 600 and before stropping? Since I've gone up to 3000 on my whetstones and gotten shaving sharpness after stropping, I know that's possible. But I'm not sure what the grits are for diamond stones. People seem to go to higher grits on whetstones and not quite so high on diamond stones, but I'm unsure. The reason I'm asking this and not just testing is because I currently don't have any knives to try it on, I'm away for some time. Commercial link removed per TOS Thanks in advance!
  11. Got really surprised today at how fast things went today, the forge is now completed. It's very ugly and very crude looking, the blower is attached with ducttape and the welds look like bird poop . Now I'll just have to get used to regulating the airflow, the hairblower I had on my old forge was really simple to use (OFF/half blast/full blast) and I only ever had it on full blast whilst forging. On this forge I actually use the ashdump and the clinker breaker to regulate the airflow. It enables me to fine tune, which is new to me. VID_20190804_173944.mp4
  12. Turns out you could adjust the airflow quite effectively with the ashdump and clinkerbreaker, so I just permanentley have the blower at full blast. Problem solved!
  13. Hello. The new blower I have has an internal gate to adjust the airflow, but it is affected by the air as it pushes through. The air basically opens the gate no matter how I adjust the airflow. This is probably because the hinge of the gate is extremely loose. When the lever is pushed to the left on the pictures, it's 100% open and when it's to the right it's 0%. How can I make sure the lever stays where it is regardless of the airflow? The forge I'm building is in this thread. // Gustav VID_20190804_134719.mp4
  14. Progress! The firepot isn't fastened down, it is a tiny bit loose if you try to move it since I just placed it in a rectangular hole. That's fine, right? The rectangular pipe you see welded "behind" the firepot on the frame was of some weird steel that didn't want to weld. I filed both sides down to fresh metal but it just wouldn't hold. I had it welded all the way but when I removed the clamps it just snapped outwards and all the welds disconnected . Maybe take some 20x5 mm mild steel instead? I'll figure something out.
  15. Adding wheels in some way is a good tip, thank you. However, I need to be able to lift and carry it by myself. I won't just be moving it across the floor, but also in and out of a huge oven to benefit from its chimney. I managed to cut the table today and I ended up going for 31x22". I still had plenty of space for my firepot. 27" looked good when I drew the forge in CAD and would probably be the best performing, but when I visualized it infront of me while I were at the table, it seemed too big.
×
×
  • Create New...