Trevor84

Members
  • Content Count

    77
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Trevor84

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cranbrook BC, Canada
  • Interests
    Making things with my hands is the short version, I like chalanges and thrive on new information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. AFB thanks ya they're for holding RR spikes by the head. So far they seem to work fairly well.
  2. Oh boy I missed a bunch while I was away. 671Jungle, that's a beautiful flame nice stable shape. Hey Mike I already had two burner Tubes made up so I would be able to try different lengths after the air slots. For some reason I can't get a decent flame burning outside the forge, I'm trying to use a step nozzle and have put it together in several configurations but I either run rich with the orange flame or I blow the flame out. I cleaned up the air slots, trimmed the mixing tube to 8" after the air slots, 0.023 contact tip. Inside the forge I can get these flames. I get no dragons breathe once I get the forge up into the yellow range and yellow is easy to hit and hold. Im not sure what you see in these flames but they seem to be working fairly well. To hold a yellow temp with my old burner running a 0.035 tip I would run about 10psi. This burner running a 0.023 I run about 10psi for the se yellow temp. Am I correct in assuming that I am using less fuel but getting more heat because I'm getting a more efficient burn? Here's a couple flame pics and a pair of tongs this new burner helped make.
  3. Hey Mickey "very hot" is a good start, I already have a .030 tip turned down so it's a real easy change over. I have not read your book only picked up dimensions here and there in this thread and others so I've kinda pieced those bits together. The mixing tube portion (from the tip of the burner to the beginning of the openings) is 7 1/2" if that's too short I have another tube all ready made up that is about 8 3/8" so I have a little bit of option on length. Could you refresh me on how you determine a "very hot" flame? Is it because of the compact conical shape vs a looser flame that more or less blooms out of the nozzle? After I get these couple things dialed in I'll pick your brain on the "other" minor things Thank you
  4. When the burner is in the forge the current pieces I am using as a nozzle only act as spacers, they butt up to the flare in the liner. Outside the forge I just slid these spacers out into a multi step type nozzle just to see how it would act ( I do have other pieces to make a step nozzle as Mickey describes which will be used in future testing ). Your description of the flame makes sense and adds to my ability to visualize what I am looking for. I guess the first thing I do tonight is going to be taking this apart and give it a clean again to make sure I have zero residue left to rule that out then put the proper step nozzle on and exhaust tuning option there before moving to the next step. When it comes to the where the orifice should be, I have not found that measurement so I have just listened to it and it sounds like about 1/2" away from the throat may be the ticket there. With the 035 tip in there using the choke does zip until it's almost fully closed so no adjustment to play with there currently. I do know from reading that the 035 is way bigger than what Mickey calls for so I'm not sure why I started there but it's an easy change if I can't find neutral. Thanks again Frosty I'm sure Mickey will be around eventually, I got at least 9hrs before I can get back to it anyway........... that whole work thing this is how the current step looks like this is a rough idea of how the burner lines up in the forge, it mates up with the cast liner about an inch into the liner unlike how it looks like in the pic but this shows how the cast nozzle kind of looks
  5. The last 3 pics are all without changing anything with the burner but the amount of orange will constantly change. In the forge the nozzle is cast into my liner however outside the forge I have a step nozzle on there. The nozzle is a 1" nipple with a 1/2" overhang then a 1 1/4" overhanging the 1" by about 7/8". The orifice seems to have the same outcome when I set it between 1/2" from the bottom of the air slots up to about 1 1/2". I have another jet set up with a .030 tip that I will try out tonight but in the meantime if you have any thoughts I am all ears. Frosty thank you. I wasn't quite sure about the color but if you're thinking that looks rich I will definitely try out the .030 jet, I always struggle judging the flame colors. Is the tertiary suggesting rich or the color of the blue?
  6. Good morning folks, I'm back with another build I'm in the tuning stage now and looking for thoughts on my progress. 3/4" Mickey burner with a 0.035 contact tip in a schedule 80 1/8" nipple and tapered to a point, mixing tube is 7 1/2" from the bottom of the air slots. The air slot area is divided into 6 and 3" long so that the solids are the the same width as the openings. The vertical the slots have opposing bevel's, like the sides are cut in the same direction. This just happened because of how I was holding the grinder but I assume it helps induce the vortex action, the bottom and tops of the slots have opposing bevels as well. Once I cleaned up these openings with a file I was able to see the vortex develop when looking at the flame straight on, you can kind of watch a ring of flame slowly rotate during ignition. With this set up my flame itself seems pretty good but I am getting what looks like a lot of tertiary flames at times and lots of streaks. I've tried cleaning the mixing tube with a rag pushed back and forth in the tube with a few shots of brake cleaner. I think that some of the orange flame is still from residual oils because without touching anything and just standing watching the flame I can watch it go from almost no tertiary to a growing plume of orange flame that will back off eventually also if I tap the mixing tube I still get streaks. I think I need to try and clean the parts a bit more........... With the same setting as seen in the previous pic but forge warmed up I was able to leave this shined up piece of metal directly under the flame for about 5 min with no scale formation. The flame becomes almost incandescent once the forge is hot with very minimal DB. Here you can see the ring right at the nozzle, in a video you can see that ring slowly rotate but the flame has a nice cone shape from the side.
  7. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    Ya, no flat rate boxes here, some stores are able to ship at better rates than others but I think that's when they have larger contracts with curries or something. I think the shipping was more than the actual product when I talked to Glen last I think. I was going to just add the zircopax to my mortar but the supplier recommended I try the bentonite, it turns out he knew more about this stuff than I did. So between him and you guys I may have everything I need...... Being able to make ones own bricks would be a treat once you get the recipe down that is. If you can make strong re emmisive tiles instead of just strong would be a nice touch.
  8. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    After the following I have done here I actually do follow for the most part. Like I say I'm no chemist but I'm definitely getting the gyst of it, I've been reading through these threads for the last year or so trying to get a decent visual of everything. The floor in my forge is soft Ifb and got beat up pretty bad and then I leveled it out with high alumina mortar but low and behold...... mortar just won't stay solid at high temp when used this way that's why I'm thinking of replacing my bricks with others I have already and then using a kiln shelf when I plan on welding. The main forge body (D forge) has a kast-o-lite lining but it would be nice to have a higher alumina wash on it or better yet the zirconia wash. When I ordered some other stuff from the company I mentioned above I grabbed a bag of "Ultrox" (zircopax) and a bag of bentonite clay. I may just have to try out a thin wash, I already have the kast-o-lite shell so I just need a thin wash so I probably don't have to worry as much about it cracking up. I just happened to see that alumina being offered as a dry product from this site, they have a large selection of products available on small quantities. It's sounding like 3% bentonite 97% zircopax and mix to a latex paint consistency, dab it on and give it a long time to dry...... I would just order some plistex Burt everywhere I quote it it comes to almost $100 after shipping. I could get a half pint of ITC 100 for $50 but as you say and I've read is that it's designed to be able to flake off so a person can clean their kiln shelves easier when doing pottery. That's why I'm curious about the he brew since it's like $30 and it sounds like there are some decent benefits.
  9. You're welcome my pleasure, I hope they help someone out
  10. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    I'm waiting to hear back from the company as this is the only sds I've found, I'm not sure if you can read it but it doesn't look very high in alumina. However they say they sell "high alumina" kiln shelves by the piece so I'll wait to hear back from them and let you know.
  11. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    Thanks Mickey. I'm definitely thinking an easily replaceple floor would be ideal. I don't have slots built in this forge but swapping a 1/4" thick tile in and out would be fairly simple. I am not planning on welding big billets or anything crazy with this forge so I don't need a thick cast floor and soft bricks take a beating regardless of flux so I figure I'll try out your recommendation of the shelves.
  12. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    Ok, I'm still curious about the kiln shelve but I found some more reading material regarding re-emisve and kiln washs to read before starting another conversation here about it.
  13. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    I'm no chemist and haven't played with creating refractory coatings but I'm just curious if there's any way "calcined alumina" be beneficial in making a kiln wash/adding to a refractory product or would you just be running the same issues as the bentonite/veegum cracking up? I know this is sn old subject and admittedly I'm not up to date with the latest out comes. I just happened stumbled across this when searching for kiln shelves.
  14. Trevor84

    Forges 101

    Good morning all. Mickey when it comes to kiln shelves I am wonder how flux resistant they can be, it sounds like you tend to use them alot. I can order these kiln shelves, this is the sds I know "good enough" isn't an appropriate question moreso my question is how long do you think 1/4"would last? I have the choice of 1/4" thick or 1/2", I like the idea of having a removable/replaceable floor but don't want to create more of a heat sync than necessary...... This company is in Canada "pottery supply house"