Jymm Hoffman

Sam, the idea is good. I guess you didn't get to see the nail making video Friday night at Ashokan (should have come then:) ), you can see it in this interview posted on You Tube: I I don't have the side cut out and scale does build up eventually. I use a magnet to clear it out or a quick removal of the dies when necessary.That has not been a big issue, even when I am making a couple hundred strake nails at a time.

It really helps if you tell us where you are located. Have you tried the Yellow Pages and calling not only steel suppliers, but also fabricating/welding shops. In the 1980's that was pretty much who I had to my my stock from. I was very disappointed to find out that a steel warehouse just down the road from my shop would not deal with me for the same reason, too small of quantity. The other frustration is I moved from eastern Ohio to 15 miles from Pittsburgh, Pa. My main steel supplier is Youngstown Pipe & Supply:.http://yopipe.com/ They deliver to my shop for a very modest fee since diesel prices went up, $15.00. They will also cut in half. Youngstown is a little over an hour away and YPS delivers in this area Wednesdays and Fridays. For the very small stuff, such as 1/4" square and smaller, 3/16" by 3/4 flats and smaller, I buy from Erie Concrete and Steel, Warren, Ohio office: .http://www.econsteel.com/ Their prices are better on the small stuff, and they cut and ship via UPS in tubes. I think they handle the sizes you want as well.

This one is pretty heavy, probably 100 pounds, I put 50 pounds of ram in it. We do plan to make these available commercially. When we get the details hammered out, we will post them up on IForge's store. We may try another one that is slightly shorter on the exterior to help lighten the amount of ram refractory without losing interior space. This size will be great for felling axes that I have on order as well as picks and hoes. Jymm

Here's some photos of a new prototype forge that a local fabricator did the metal work for me. We have been discussing this joint venture for a few years. It is a large 2 burner, 12 inches long, 14 inches wide on the outside. 6 inches highest opening, 9 inches wide through the 12 inches long. 3 inch tall by 6 inches long side slot. Ram refractory covers entire cavity. Only exposed blanket is on the doors. It works very well, made a mattock and laid steel on (forge welded,) both ends. Some cold shots, then firing up. Mattock was made from 3/4" by 4" by 6", forged 4" down to about 1 1/4" by 1" thick, then pierced eye, similar to ones I made last winter.

Not sure how to find the photo and information in the gallery that I posted a while back. Take a look at these: http://hoffmansforge.com/anvils I have a 335 pound Euro Anvil as my main anvil. However, I use one of my smaller Continental Pattern a lot in my shop. Some times days on end.

I think there is a difference in just bobbing and knowing how to use your whole body as a whip like Peter Ross does. I would not call him a bobber. Yes if you use your whole body incorrectly, I am sure it will suffer. Use it correctly, along with the correct grip and angles of the hammer face and you can move metal faster.

If someone looks at something a show that has a price clearly marked, then asks me "what's your best price?" I normally double it and watch for the reaction. After they react, I sometimes say "you asked me what MY best price is."

Forgive me if I over looked some comments as I was just skimming. The good all steel anvils today are made that way (using all steel) because the cost of the material vs. labor and skill required to cast a steel plate into the anvil as F&N did. Plus the cost of good quality steel vs. lesser expensive materials, i.e. iron, are close enough to cause serious manufacturers to not want to make an inferior product. That is why the anvils I have cast are entirely H13 tool steel, then professionally heat treated and ground. Same for Nimba (different kind of tool steel) Rathole and even some of the European imports using better steel than cast iron. I don't know enough of the metallurgy to discuss or debate the American made anvils that are made from ductile iron that many farriers buy and use. The manufacturers of these anvils claim a pretty high hardness on the Rockwell C scale. If anyone could do it easily, there would be a lot more out there. I too have used a block anvil for years for historical demonstrations. Too many times people have asked "where's your anvil?" So when I bumped into a pattern maker that would make a "colonial" pattern for me and help me find a foundry, I was debating the change. I did not get rid of the block anvil and still use it along with the "colonial." The pattern of a bickern Joseph has chosen I think would also be good and frequently under represented in historical demonstrations. Grant, any more photos of those guys forging anvils? Since many of you are interested in the "ancient" arts, I would like to share a secret, there is an old fashioned way to learn about something, it is called books. If you can not afford to buy a particular book, there is thing called a public library. Now they even take advantage of computers, so if that library does not have a copy of a book, another library will and they do inner library loans. More of you need to find a copy of Anvils in America, by Richard Postman and read it. The latest addition shows an article about making anvils that appeared in ABANA's "The Anvil's Ring" in the 1989. Anvils being made by hand at a shop producing anvils as late as the 1940's in Germany. Mr. Postman was surprised to learn this as his research was focusing on English and American made anvils that were the dominate anvils in the United States. Mr. Postman learned that most anvil makers he found still forging anvils (in the US and UK) were using steam hammers by the 20th century. He is also author of Mousehole Forge. So depending on the size anvil you wish to make, it might be easier to build a big fire and get a big hunk of steel and some friends with sledge hammers. Sounds simple, so does melting steel and pouring into sand.

Take a look at my previous posts with photos about burner tips, as previously mentioned. I show how I make them (flattened1 1/2" black pipe.) While I prefer to put them in the bottom, you may be able to put one into the existing hole, going with 1 burner may be okay for this system.

Maybe it was hard to see in the photo I posted of a forge under construction. I put in the ram, over the blanket, bringing it up to about 1 inch below the burners. If you put some hard refractory in the bottom, you won't need as much angle on the burners. If you do not put any hard refractory into the bottom, it will get hot very fast, but it will cool off when you put metal into it, the larger the more heat will be sucked out. Even if you don't get the ram I recommend, old fire bricks will help. These systems work best when you use both hard refractory and the blanket. The hard will get hot and radiate heat back, the blanket reflects it back into the hard and the work.... You don't really want to put your work on the blanket, it will wear down faster. The mortar will help, if that is all you have. If you have some fire brick, try covering them with the mortar to help protect the firebrick. Most firebrick and mortar will not stand up to flux for very long, but it will be better than non as the blanket will not stand up against flux. Use pieces of blanket to protect the burner tips. You can pack it right around them, leaving just a tiny bit exposed is okay. Too much and they will slowly deteriorate, not while in use, but when you shut down. The heat will be enough to heat up the tips and cause scaling, but this does take some time to happen.

I have had no problems cutting truck springs on my band saw, making certain to use saw lube or sometimes WD40. I have made shovels and spades with truck springs. When I ran out, I ordered 5160 of the same size and got similar results.

Did you contact Diamondback? You should contact the manufacturer before asking in a public forum.

So what did you pay for the blanket and where did you get it? 1/4" mortar will be a waste of mortar, even if you have a lot of it. The problem with mortar is when it does break apart, it pulls blanket with it. If you are going to use mortar, just use a thin coat. Go back and look at the photos I posted as well as sent to you. Point the burner tips down, slightly. The angle should cause the flames to glance off the bottom, which should be a hard refractory over 2 inches of blanket. If you point the flame directly at the blanket, it will actually wear it out. But don't make the inside too small, regardless of burner numbers. Don't get too excited and in too big of a rush, follow the info I sent. If you are in a big hurry, build one following the info I sent you. Don't try to re-engineer things until you get one up and running, and use it for a while. There is lots of info out there, follow one to get your first system together. Then you can try variations with the extra materials.

If you use a good ramable/ram/plastic you do not need a sacrificial anything, even if you do a lot of forge welding. All you will have to do is scrape out the flux and scale when hot, or even chisel out the build up when cold. No replacing anything. I have been using ram in the bottom of my forges for years. As long as the blanket is covered, it takes a beating and keeps on heating. You can just cover up the blanket with an inch or so of this stuff and go. I prefer to use a little more in the bottom. I have 3 forges that I rotate due size and location of projects. I have not needed to replace the bottom in years and have 2 hard tops in service for over a year, no relining or replacing anything. I used AP Green/Harbison Walker's product, Plasteck 85 for a while until I got hooked up with a new dealer listed below. Here's the Dixie Refractory contact is Ken Goedeker, email: rss-ifs@att.net Thermogen 60 STF is working very nicely, even with UPS shipping from Alabama to Pittsburgh, Pa area, the cost is less than 1/2 of local Harbison Walker dealer and Plasteck 85. Ken also gave me the best price on blanket, I use 1" 8 pound 2300 degree blanket. I don't remember the cost of 3,000 degree mortar mix as am still using the sample he sent to me. He has been a great guy to work with and has visited my shop several times. First to see what I was doing prior to making recommendations, then to check up on things.He stopped in a couple of weeks ago to check up on me while he was in my area. I have started lining the top of my forges with the Thermogen 60 as well. Now I don't worry about hitting any blanket with work, especially during a weld.

Thank for the info. I am trying to find some u-bolts around my shop to mount my burners. I made the opening in the body large enough to allow me to pack wool around them, but also allow me to adjust the angle of the tips either up or down. I am hoping to fire it up tonight with just the shell. Want to see it on fire plus I am going to get some BBQ grille paint and heating the shell will help set the paint. Just a few pictures, nothing is fastened yet. I made the mso I could take it off the cart and set it on a table or bench while I work on the lining. The mount also slides front to back on the cart. I still have to put my work surfaces on the cart. I also told you all the wrong measurement for the length. Main body is only 14" long, the two caps are about 2" (not counting what overlaps the body). So my total chamber length will be more like 18" instead of 20". Go back and look at the photos I posted as well as sent to you. Point the burner tips down, slightly. The angle should cause the flames to glance off the bottom, which should be a hard refractory over 2 inches of blanket. If you point the flame directly at the blanket, it will actually wear it out. The added refractory will make a difference. I would not recommend the 6 pound, go with 8. Better for the long term costs. But don't make the inside too small, regardless of burner numbers. My guess is this system will support a wider forge than you built. Cut the shell in 1/2 to make it easier to line and reline, etc as in my photos. If you have a way to secure the refractory to the top, it gives you the option to raise the lid higher for certain jobs. Don't get too excited and in too big of a rush, follow the info I sent.

Correct, 1/2 copper will be fine, if you get the rubber propane approved stuff, you can more easily move the forge around the shop. I used copper and black iron for several years, before putting my forges on carts with wheels. I love my forge carts on wheels!

Hope your boys are feeling better soon. If you have another 2" T and plug, or nipple and cap, I would suggest changing out the elbow that is closest to the burners. Take another look at my 3 burner, same method used for 2. If you review my email, this is recommended as the abrupt change helps to mix the fuel and air as well as equalizing the pressure along the manifold. When I used elbows, I would normally have to open one burner tip in the initial firing. The smooth flow normally shoots the gas and air past the first burner. If you don't have another T, try it, You may have enough distance and the plugged T at the end may be enough.

Don't be disappointed if you have troubles keeping the burners lit in an open air test. It may take a few tries to find the balance in how much air to how much gas to put into the mix. This is different than when inside the forge.

First, good for you for making you own tongs. Keep doing that, no matter how frustrating, but try slight changes where the breaks happen, Are the breaks in the same place? Lots of theories can be posted about this. We need more information, pictures would help too. Most of the tongs I make are similar to the style and method shown in "The Blacksmiths Craft" published by CoSIRA. I did a quick search and had troubles finding the the link for the free download. However, most of the time I am not welding the reins onto the jaw stock as shown in this chapter. I do have 2 power hammers and draw out the reins. Most of the time I use 3/4 square, occasionally making lighter tongs. I use hot rolled mild steel (A 36) and have no problems throwing my tongs in the water, even when they are red to orange. However, I am not waiting for them to get that hot before cooling when too hot to hold. If you are using A36, 1020, 1010 or similar mild steel, the cooling should not be a problem. If you are using an alloy or higher carbon steel, then that is a problem. Occasionally you can get a bad batch of steel. I have only had that problem once or twice in 30 years. The other problem could be in how you are making them, getting one area too thin or even a "cold shut." That is why pictures will help others guide you through this journey. Of course, the best solution is to take a class with someone that has made them.

Take a look at this thread of first gas forge. I prefer round. send me an email and I will forward more photos and information: http://www.iforgeiro...ge/page__st__20

I guess you did not see my version in the "Hammer's Blow." It is so simple combustion engineers can't believe it, till they try it. Now they like it. If you want complicated, don't look here. Starting with the manifold, it is made from 1 1/2 inch black pipe parts. The burner tips are 10 inch nipples cut in 1/2. I heat them up and flatten to a 1/8 inch sheet to act as a gauge. I no longer us elbows and street ells as it requires more adjusting or tuning of the burners tips. By only using T's, there is less need to adjust the burner tips (open one that is not burning as well as the other by using a long chisel while it is running.) The T's do not necessarily have to be welded together as I do, you can use short nipples to connect everything. I recommend one of this size burner tips for every 6 inches in length of shell. I used to recommend 1/8 inch hole for the gas, but the newer method of connecting a 1/4 nipple to a ball valve into the 1 1/2" to 1/1/2 inch T works fine.Or the 1/4" reducer can be plugged with 1/2' threaded rod, cut flush. Then drill a 5/32" hole in the center of the plug and counter sink (so the counter sink bevel is the outlet of the gas into the 1 1/2" pipe.) VERY IMPORTANT: This system works on household gas pressure, here in the United States, that is 11 inches of water column, about 1/2 pound of pressure. A common regulator that is already set for this pressure is used on outdoor gas barbecue grills. Do not try this system on high pressure gas with this large of an orifice. I normally run 3/8 to 1/2 inch rubber propane hose from the regulator to the ball valve. NEXT IMPORTANT PART: The blower must be a high speed blower that can produce not only enough CFM, but also enough pressure. I do not know what the minimums are, I use blowers readily available from Kayne & Son/Blacksmiths Depot: http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/Templates/cart_templates/cart_browse.php?theLocation=/Resources/Products/Forges_and_Parts/blowers. The small blower they sell works great, it is listed at 112 CFM at 36 ounces of pressure. I run my smaller 2 burner and large 3 burner systems with the same blower (not at the same time of course.)

What do you think about having a fire brick that can be slide up or down the change the size of the forge openings? This is a common misconception many have. While the bricks may make it smaller inside, they will take fuel to heat up. If you put 2 inches of 2300 degree 8 pound blanket in the bottom, and cover it with about 2 inches of ram, then put 1" of blanket in the top and an inch of ram in the top, you will not need to try to make it smaller. If you don't want to put in a hard top, then use 2 inches of blanket in the top and coat it. Many products available for this, the least expensive is a thinned down slurry of 3,000 degree mortar. In the photos: the first and last one burning is a larger 2 burner with a side cut out and Thermogen ram refractory in the top as well as the bottom. These photos are of a test firing. I normally just use blanket on the doors. The other 2 photos show the bottom with ram and the top with the slurry of 3,000 degree mortar. I stopped using this method as it does eventually pull away, especially when hit too many times. The ram in the top has made the most durable systems. As long as it is not too thick in the top, it only takes a couple of minutes longer to heat up, but only minutes. Once heated up, they are very hot and efficient. Repeat: I do lots of forge welding and the ram is impervious to the flux. You might, I stress might, find something cheaper, but it will not last as long. Fire brick also has a problem with thermal shock causing it to break down, even if you don't forge weld. I would also recommend cutting your shell in 1/2 to make it easier to line. When using the ram in the top, I normally let it set up over night before putting together. It is still wet and pliable. So I started inserting a piece of sheet formed to the inner curved, with U shaped straps to hold in place and fire it up.

Sent you a message with my email address. Even with shipping fees, my materials costs are less than a local Harbison Walker warehouse 5 minutes down the road.