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Zach Wolpa

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  1. Frosty, I’m sure you get bombarded with silly questions, so thanks so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge and answering mine the build itself is actually a breeze, the floor flange really helps. It’s just finding that right piece, I’m gonna take the one I found in the mystery bag to the fitting store and see if they have em, otherwise I’ll just have to keep my eyes out for more mislabeled fittings. Looking for them online is even harder, and I don’t have a lot of confidence that even if I found it, I’d have the right piece. Call me old school, but I like to have these things in my hand
  2. Mikey98118 so, it’s hard to see in the photo, but there’s actually 3 SS pipes cast into the side of the forge, 1”, 1-1/4”, and 1-1/2”, from front to back. the back two pipes are drilled and tapped with set screws. The reducer on the burner is at the end of the burner tube and goes to a 1” SS nipple (nozzle) which slips into either of the back two pipes. The reducer blocks back flow but doesn’t get hot at all, and the “cast in” pipe acts as the slide over flare. All in all it may be too much burner for this forge, and I may scale down and try a multiple mini NA burner design. Frosty I
  3. Frosty if I understand the ratios you’re referencing correctly, then the air intake port area should be 1/4x the burner tube length (8x pipe diameter) or 2x the pipe diameter, and the jet should be .5x diameter from the tube. I’m using schedule 40, 3/4” black steel for my tube. So my inside diameter is .824”, essentially 7/8”, D = 7/8”. so I went with 8” for my tube length. With the intake and flare fittings, I’m at 7” (8D) in “exposed” tube length between the intake and flare fittings. The intake is 1.5” also schedule 40, so inside diameter = about 1-5/8” (2D). As built, my
  4. Irondragon Forge & Clay, thanks for the pointers and helping me get started here, I thought my location auto filled with my FB login method, I'll be adding more info to my profile for sure. Thomas Powers and Latticino, I'll definitely pick up an adjustable regulator for the next build, makes sense to me as it would eliminate the need for the needle valve and a simple shutoff seems to be the safer method. The needle valve I'm using was sold as being a good choice for a forge burner, but now I'm not so sure. Frosty, "Dunning and Kruger" ha! I'm way smarter than those guys (totally
  5. Wow! This is awesome, you guys are rock stars, thanks for all of the quick responses! Lot's of questions, so I'll do my best to answer: In terms of whose burner plans I'm using, I have to give the Ron Reil (who credits Russ Vulo and Derry Cook) burner design credit for my inspiration. That said, I've been thinking about doing this for a couple of years, so I've read a ton, watched at least 15 different videos, took ideas from several different designs and tried to create a concept for the burner body and jet pipe that seemed the simplest. So, I'm not really following a specific design,
  6. Hello, I'm new to the forum, so hopefully I'm posting this in the right place. Setting up my first legit propane forge and decided to take a crack at building some homemade burners as well. Burner specs are as follows: 1"x6" SS nozzle/burner tip 1" to 3/4" SS reducer coupling 3/4"x8" black steel nipple 1.5" to 3/4" black steel reducer coupling 1/8"X4" brass nipple with end cap, tapped for MIG tip MIG tip From the 1/8" nipple, my connection assembly is as follows: 1/8" to 1/4" brass hex bushing 1/4" brass tee Winters 2" Lead F
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