jlblohm

This place is definitely an amazing. Huge amounts of info and some extremely talented people. I probably shouldnt have taken it so serious but i was trying to help and i end up feeling dumb. Which the comment i made brought up a serious point but it makes me not want to comment any more. I may be new to the forum but im not new to working steel and i know about heat treating high carbon steel!

I didnt do anything wrong and i get a sarcastic edit to my comment. There is no ignore function that can ignore an administrators edit! What it feels like is someone wanted to be a sarcastic and not let anyone know who it is.

The more i think about this the more it bothers me. I dont understand why it was necessary to edit my post. I didnt do anything wrong i was just trying to be helpful. Why not post your own comment? I think this is enough to make me go back to being a lurker instead of a member. I think i will stay over at Don Foggs forum!

It might have been hinted at but never explained why! Some people might not take that into account. I didnt mean to offend anyone!!!

Everyone forgot to mention the dangers of striking a piece of steel that is as hard as A2. A chunk of steel could break off and shoot into your leg hitting your femoral artery...you could bleed to death in mere seconds. It was hinted at

The more i look at it things are not quite adding up. One thing i am almost certain about is it is not a brooks. The sweep under the heel is not vulcan. The horn is neither vulcan or fisher. The depression under the base is not vulcan either but i cant say about the fisher norris. Looking at this picture it looks cast iron to me. Any chance of getting some pictures now that the paint is stripped?

The horn doesn't look like a fisher.

Listening to the drop test with the hammer i would guarantee it is wrought with steel face.

If this takes up too much bandwidth feel free to edit it out but here is a look at the one im working on getting.

Early trentons were made in germany. Later ones were made in america. Photos would definitely help identifying where it was made. And tomorrow i will go though anvils in america and see when they moved to america and i will look into the serial numbers.

Man those have definitely seen better days. Im going to have to take a look at the under side of mine to see if it is hollowed out like yours. I dont ever recall looking under mine.

I dont know if i would consider it a starter anvil. Vulcans have gotten a bad rep because of people abusing them. I wouldnt use a striker with it and try to limit your hammers to around 6 lbs and try to stay away from the edges and always hammer HOT steel and this anvil can out live you! I personally really like vulcan anvils i have a vulcan #10 100 lbs in near mint condition. The #20 on yourz is the weight. And the 41 indicates the year. So yours was made in 1941. The year america entered WW2. I am working on getting a 200 lber myself. I found one in mint condition i just need to save a little more money.

The horn is also steel and not cast iron lile the rest of the base.

Look around the base between the feet. Here is a picture of a very early vulcan and you can see the arm and hammer logo in this location. How much did you pay if you dont mind me asking? What are you taking the paint off with?

Based on the handling holes i would say it is forged wrought iron with steel face plate. There is a huge difference between wrought iron and cast iron. Also the hardie looks to be punched and not cast in. It is also leaning at even more of an angle than the anvil itself.

It is possible!!! Here is how i did it. Link removed I dont think the one with a spark igniter will work though.

It might be impossible to tell. It is an old colonial pattern. No shelf and no pritchel i would put a date of pre 1800. Seems like it has a hard lean to the right. This is something that is usually found an anvils with the 5th foot. Its an interesting one for sure. Still has some life left.

Rhino anvil are some of the best. They are made from an air hardening steel and are hardened through the whole body and don't have to be quenched. If you have any more questions about the rhino anvils Jerrod Miller is the mettalurgist for the foundry that makes them and he is an active member of bladesmithsforum.com if you would like to talk to him he would be more than willing to talk with you.

One thing you need to look at is what these anvil are made of. TFS is ductile iron. Emerson is 4140. Scott is ductile iron or as centaurforge states ductile alloy. Cliff Carroll anvil I can't find the alloy but they are rather soft. I would agree the Hoffman colonial would probably be your best bet. Have you looked into these?

I have never seen one like it. I am interested in finding out more myself. The way the horn comes back into the body is interesting.

Would this anvil be for sale or are you planning on using it?

I was wondering about that. I have a buddy that his wife is an accountant for a huge dairy farm, i would have her do all that. The quote i got you could hardly read because of letters and numbers being printed over each other. Well i just went into my emails and they sent me a new quote that i can actually read. $2,300 USD for a 20 kg hammer.

How was shipping dealt with? Did you have to arrange the final delivery from port to your shop? And what manufacturer did you go through?

Why doesn't anyone ever use anything to seal the wool lining. Or is it some of that magic wool that hardens and seals itself like a masterfabpro forge.

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