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I Forge Iron

billybodgeit

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  1. Just thought I would contribute to this talk of wasp waist burners , as I have gleamed some ideas from this site. Amal injectors use a simple copper cone for their taper long venturi, fairly easy to replicate either from sheet or pipe, or turn if you have access to a lathe. A morse taper reamer or pin reamer may even be close enough. If you go onto their site you will find a pdf with basic dimensions and pics. Approx taper of 1: 12. Their 3/4" has a venturi of approx 1/2", the 3/4 simply refers to the size of pipe thread. Currently working on a couple of all steel, water cooled narbs, powered by Amal injectors. Results so far are very promising, in terms of heat output and economy, no pop back and the ability to turn right down. Still prototyping at the moment, so time will tell. I had considered making my own version of their injector, as I have the necessary machine tools, but for the money just decided to buy them. It would be possible with a bit ingenuity to make a simpler copy with basic tools and pipe fittings. Their jets are very finely sized, so the 3D printer nozzles may be the way to go as a cheap alternative. Cheers Billy
  2. Joel The shank of the top hinge, as you refer to it does not have to be square to stop rotation. Once the strap is fastened round the journal it cannot rotate. In the situation you are describing if you leave the shoulder short of your intended length, say 2-3 mm, you then have adjustment to allow for drop, both when you are fitting and into the future. I used to go armed with various steel shims to take up the gap, I now use lead shims and tighten up until I'm happy and everything is plumb. The excess lead is then trimmed and caulked. As you are fixing to a tubular post this will produce a neat joint on a curved surface.
  3. Hello Joel You are over thinking it. The bottom socket is closed, not a through hole as you have drawn it. The journal is longer than the socket, it is the end of the tenon/journal that bears on the bottom of the socket, not the shoulder. Binding is not a problem as the fit is not a precision engineered one. The gate would have to be drastically out of plumb for that to occur, in which case you would have far greater problems. With regard to wear, this is less than pintle hinges. It is a tried and tested method used for hundreds of years. There is similar method which excludes water and dirt ingress to some extent by having the socket formed in the bottom of the backstile, the journal located in the ground. Billy Just an add on. I have in the past fitted grease nipples, by drilling up the centre of the journal and then cross drilling the stile. You can then tell your client to add the greasing to an annual maintenance regime. As if they ever will. Billy
  4. It looks very much like a K&L or Coborn anvil. The overall shape and distinct machining marks to the edge of the face are the same as one I have, mine marked very obviously K&L, with war department broad arrow and date chisel cut into it. A quality cast steel anvil with a very hard face, watch the edges they can chip. Some info here www.gracesguide.co.uk/K._and_L._Steelfounders_and_Engineers K & L were part of the 600 group, a company that made pretty much everything including Colchester lathes.
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