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I Forge Iron

Jason Fry

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Everything posted by Jason Fry

  1. I read back through the pages 15-20something where there was discussion about Veegum and Zircopax as a reflecting replacement for the ITC-100 type products. I found these materials at Seattle Pottery Supply, as indicated. What I haven't yet understood is the mixing proportions. What ratio of Veegum:Zircopax is recommended? I assume you just paint it on a bit thinner than toothpaste thick, on top of your castable?
  2. Exactly two pounds at this point. Will lose some more after finish grinding, lose a little off the tang, and gain a bit from the D guard. Sort of like this... http://www.historicalarms.com/confederate-and-union-civil-war-swords-for-sale/confederate-bowie-knife-for-sale.html Great, now I need another book, lol... When I build, I'll look at as many pictures and examples as I can find, then build in that ballpark. I don't usually do direct copies.
  3. Found a guy who authoritatively spoke like they were riveting hammers from the ship building industry. Kind of like a mega-ball-peen.
  4. Because why not I read several of the threads here directed toward sword newbs, but they're directed toward newbs in general. I've not done a sword, but I've made knives for nearly 10 years and have the right equipment for the grind work. Forged this out at a friend's house the other day, because he has a power hammer. It's like when you have a friend with a bulldozer, you dig a new tank. Started with a leaf spring off a wrecked Dodge truck. Hammered a while, till it looked like this. Spent some time grinding today. Blade is 20 3/8. Finish ground and ready for heat treat.
  5. Ask silly questions, get silly answers, lol. The one on the left has some wear on the face, but neither has any wear at all on the mushroom/ball end.
  6. I picked up these two unusual shaped hammerheads the other day. Not a shape I'd seen before. Any idea what they are for? About two or 2 1/2 pounds. Neither is marked.
  7. Thanks, Lee. That's about what I concluded as well. Just figure out a way to tie the axle to the sleeve and call it good. Weld the crap out of everything
  8. I have a horizontal venturi forge, so of course I need to build a vertical blown forge Damascus welding is the purpose for the new one. I have a piece of 1/4" wall square tubing, 7 1/4" inside dimension, 14" long. This would only be able to support a 5" diameter chamber, roughly 12" high. I also have a 10 gallon metal milk jug, 14" diameter, 20" high. This seems like overkill, as I could have a 10" or 12" by 16" or so chamber. Will the smaller one work? Should I use the bigger jug? Or, should I keep looking for something sized in between?
  9. Ok, so I have a buddy with everything in the world, metal. I am building an Appalachian hammer. He has some kind of solid axle, 4.5" round, by 60" or so long. Math says that a 36" piece weighs 162 pounds. This by itself isn't enough for a 25 pound head, correct? Next, he has a mud pump sleeve, easily 150 pounds, about 20" long with a 5 or 5.5" bore down the middle. We're thinking we could use some pipe to shim the gap, weld it all together, and get close to 300 pounds. The solid axle would go straight from the dies to the base plate, with the sleeve on the bottom for extra mass. Is this a good idea? The 4.5" solid round is the biggest solid we could find. He also has 2" or 2.5" (eyeballed) square solid stock. 18" of 2" is 20 pounds. 12" of 2.5" is 20 pounds. Along with that would be the roller assembly, the die plate, and the dies, to calculate the head weight, correct?
  10. OK, so I went to my friend's epic scrap pile and he has 98% of everything I'll need for an Appalachian style hammer. I may shoot for build-along pics as I go, but for now I have some specific questions about materials selection. He's got so much to choose from! First question... Let's say I have the choice between a dozen different sizes of leaf springs. Shooting for a 300 pound anvil and 25-30 pound head. Should I look for a shorter set, 36-40" or so, to minimize the footprint? Or, would a longer set, 60" or so, have better performance? Next, should I look for a heavier set, so they functioned more like a solid bar, or for a softer set, so that I get more whip? What would your ideal set be?
  11. Went to a buddy's house this afternoon to visit his epic pile of cool stuff. Came home with a lot of goodies. Couple of kerosene lanterns. Jackhammer bits and a Kelly brand axe. A bucket full of future tomahawks, aka hammer heads and handles. This big old axe. This is one of the single bevel kind for squaring timbers. Some leaf springs. Some will become part of my power hammer. The ones in the right are from an International Scout and will become knife blades. He also has 98% of what I need to build an Appalachian power hammer, including a 4.5" solid axle and a mud pump sleeve that together can make an anvil in the 300 pound range. That'll be a thread for another day, as we just spotted everything today. I think we'll end up going down there and fabbing everything in the next month or so.
  12. Lol, good catch... Still don't know what year it is. Checkering file is a Grobet 20 LPI. I've had it a few years, don't remember where it came from.
  13. Here's the latest from my shop, the first knife of 2017. The steel is forged W2. The guard is wrought iron from the first railroad into Dallas in 1872. The wood is spalted sycamore from the grounds at the Texas Capitol. The coin is an 1836 half dollar, the year Texas won her independence from Mexico. OAL is 15 inches. This is a fairly close copy of a knife I'll present to Texas governor Greg Abbott Jan 30th to commemorate House Bill 1935, which undid restrictive knife laws. http://www.frycustomknives.com/announcements/ktxs-abc-news-more-knife-freedom
  14. A good hand sanding job starts with a clean grind off the grinder. This one I used a sharp 120 ceramic then a sharp 220 AO. Then I hand sanded at 400 crosswise, then 600 lengthwise with WD40 and Rhynowet. I used a metal bar for these. Final passes were dry at 600, with a piece of leather glued to the sanding bar. Hand sanded W2 knife
  15. Lots of practice, mostly. Several keys. One, it all starts with a clean grind off the belt grinder. I usually stop at 220 grit off the grinder. Two, make sure each grit is sanded all the way before progressing. I usually start at 400 first. I'll run it parallel to the blade if I'm going to stop at 400, or run it at an angle if I'm going to 600. Three, finishing strokes with dry paper and a leather padded sanding stick. Nick Wheeler's Hand Sanding 101 youtube video is well recommended.
  16. Looks good to me. I still need to build one...
  17. We're already WAY over budget, so he'll just get a nice letter describing what all's in there. Statutory limitation of $500 for gifts to the governor.
  18. Main advantages have been stated, and that is that the 2x72 is a standard size with a zillion belt options. The better grinders are versatile, in that you can change between a platen, a contact wheel, or a small wheel. Even better are the ones that are variable speed, so you can decide to screw up your knife slower or faster. All that said, I'm in Lubbock now after 12 years in Abilene. Come by the house and I'll show you what I'm talking about with regard to grinders. I have a 2x42 Craftsman that I made 150 knives with before I built my 2x72. Drop me an email and we can start the conversation. fry custom knives at gmail dot com
  19. I've been looking at Appalachian style helve hammers alot, but haven't bought the plans. I think I have it pretty much figured out, but have a question about the flywheel. I've seen some like James Helm use a tire clutch, with the push rod attached directly. I assume the wheel is weighted somehow? Or, alot of folks put the tire clutch on a shaft with a flywheel on the other end with the eccentric and push rod. It seems like it would be less parts if if the tire clutch and eccentric/flywheel were all one piece. Talk me through this... what are the advantages either way?
  20. It's just the angle of the shot. Pin's in the right spot. I have been having a hard time finding a photo spot. My last two houses had places where the light was "just right." Haven't found it yet since my latest move.
  21. Here's a knife I forged from some of Aldo's original 1084 that was reportedly from the Schrade factory liquidation sale. The handle is walnut. The blade is a bit more than 3/16 thick at the guard, with distal taper. 600 grit hand finish.
  22. I just got pictures back from Johnny Stout of a knife I did a few months ago. It was intended to go to Governor Abbott (of Texas) to celebrate the passing of HB1935 which legalized bowie knife carry. Unfortunately hurricane Harvey literally rained on our party, so we haven't closed the deal with the governor. Because of the governor thing, many different people had a part in this project. Since this was a bowie, going to the governor of Texas, to be delivered at the Alamo, by a Texas knifemaker, I went with a collection of Texas historical materials. The blade is forged W2, donated to the project by Aldo Bruno. I forged it to shape and did the heat treat at my home in Hawley, TX. The handle is sycamore wood, spalted, from the grounds of the Texas Capitol building in Austin. My brother was friends in college with a guy who worked grounds crew and brought the wood home as firewood. It was ultimately dyed and stabilized by Terry Dunn, of LaVernia, TX. The guard and spacer are wrought iron, blued. The material was given by Will Frary of Grapevine, TX, and came from the rail of the first railroad into Dallas, TX in 1872. The coined spacers are 1836 capped-bust half dollars. Texas won its independence from Mexico in 1836. The stand includes mesquite from Abilene, given to me by my cousin, also a 6th generation Fry Texan. The wrought iron square nails forged to shape for the stand are from the house of 1840’s settler Allen Urquhart, who founded Jefferson, TX. The nails were donated by Don Millhouse of Fredericksburg, Tx. Thanks to all who contributed to this project! We're still working on the governor, but things are stalled in that regard, so for now we'll have to just celebrate the pictures.
  23. After several years with a piece of railroad rail welded to a 2" thick x 14" diameter flange, I scored a 124# beat up Hay Budden for $120. Face was half cracked off, but it had about a 4" square section that was still good. Later on I had a friend who said he had one I could have, and I offered to trade him a knife. Literally two years later, on the day I moved out of town, he brought me a 150# Hay Budden, a couple of sets of tongs, a couple of hardies, a cone mandrel, and a couple of top tools, then placed an order for a $250 knife in return. Sold the original beater for $250. Fast forward a few weeks and I spotted an anvil in this guy's driveway a couple of blocks over. I left him a note on his front door, and he called me a few days later. He's an interesting older fella, 74, and a bona fide anvil hoarder. Has three or four at his house, plus another group at his son's place, and he's not planning on selling anything. Guess I'll play the long game on this one, lol. Few days later on FB marketplace I scored 30 pairs of tongs for $100, but didn't have cash for the rest of the stuff the guy had, so I pitched it to the anvil hoarder down the street. He paid $275 for a champion 400, a calvary forge, a leg vise, and a drill press on a stand. I haven't done a deal yet with the anvil hoarder, but we'll get there some time.
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