Jason Fry

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Posts posted by Jason Fry


  1. I'm in Lubbock and watch the anvil market some.  It's been hot.  Seeing junk ASO's going in the 2-300 range.  Nicer stuff in the 4-500 range.  I'd put that range at anywhere between 4 and 8$ a pound.  Anything priced in the 2-3 per pound range lasts 5 minutes. 

    That said, the other guys are  spot on.  Work the network of old guys.  FB market place, craigslist, and ebay are all going to be over priced.


  2. I've got some wrought iron wagon rim that I'd like to incorporate into a knife blade.  I have done "regular" damascus and san mai, but have not worked much with wrought. 

    The rim is in the .3" range thick at the moment.  I plan to forge it down a little, but how far can I go?  I'm assuming I can run it through the power hammer at yellow heat?

    Next I'll grind off the scale and laminate it to a piece of blade steel.  I've got 1084 and W2 both on hand in 1/4" and 3/16 thick.  This would leave my final billet as thick as perhaps .6 or so after welding.  

    Again using the hammer, I assume this three layer stack of wrought/blade/wrought can be drawn out lengthwise?  Will the different rates of movement of the wrought vs. the core cause me problems here?

    After forging to profile, I figured to quench at near full thickness and grind in the bevels.  Any considerations for quenching?  Do I need a faster or slower oil to deal with the cladding?

    The rim I have came from my great great grandfather, and is fairly irreplaceable.  I'd like to get this one right. 


  3. I started out following Raymond Richard.  Now I lean more toward David Lisch, Lin Rhea, and Jean Louis Regel, among others.  Don Hanson.  Veronique Laurent.  Warenski, and Loerchner.  Bruce Bump.  I could go on and on.  If you're not frequently searching for master inspiration, you'll not likely make it to master yourself IMO.  


  4. That's a cool modification.  As above, chipping implies brittleness.  I wouldn't think welding back where they did would impact the heat treatment of that blade.  My guess is that the knife was just mediocre Chinese work to begin with, and would have had issues even if it hadn't been modified.  About the only thing I see is to keep sharpening it as it chips out, or to modify the edge angle to make it a little thicker.  Thicker edge would increase stability and chipping resistance, although it also will make it not slice as pretty.


  5. I have written down a few things based on my rusty Hammer build from April into May. Is there anybody in this forum who would be willing to review it for accuracy before I publish it? Send me an PM email address removed

    I’ve had quite a few folks asked me to develop plans, or whatever, and this is about as close as I’m going to get. How do you make a plan for building a race car out of a giant tub of Legos? It’s all about hunting and finding the right parts, and there’s no real plan for that. 


  6. I've done five of these knives so far.  Using the vise jaws, the horn, a hammer, and pliers, I can get them done to my satisfaction.  What I'm thinking more about is a jig to make the process faster and more repeatable.  If I end up doing classes, I'd like to have a jig to help someone with limited skills come up with a usable knife that doesn't suck. 

    I came at this hobby from trial and error.  There's a lot I haven't seen, that's why I ask.


  7. Everybody in the episode did good work.  Ryan got eliminated for bad welds, but the core of his blade was fine.  Rob got eliminated for that chip, but that test was ridiculous.  I lost because of a bend, but our weapons didn't break.  If you've watched lately, four or five episodes in a row have had catastrophic failure.

    I can say that the contest was fair and consistent.  My weapon was better in every way, except the one that counted.  I lost fair and square.

    It is super hot in that studio.  They don't tell you that, and you can't tell from TV.  I'd say 95 degrees or so minimum back there in the forging area.  25 ft away at the judging table it was nearly 90.


  8. Started from a ball peen about 16 oz, USA stamped. Forgot that my phone was plugged in, but I got a few pics later in the process. 

     

    Here it is after some of the Blade was beginning to be forged out, right before I started drifting the eye. 

    74ee66506085dae5a412283110164dc4.png

     

     

    A bit more forging...

    8090d5a3aa4879790c1b69ec00911017.jpg

     

    Forged to shape all but the spike end. Time for a little profile cleanup on the grinder. 

    825308611011130d3ff6d2e56cfe513f.jpg

     

    Drifted the eye out larger to fit a regular hammer handle. 

    81f2d0be6cbc401cd0d2a956b09cb8e6.jpg

     

    Got it close to finished. After this I normalized in the oven and then did a bit of finish grinding. May heat treat tomorrow. 

    43671f5d798c8dcb3900f7a64918c811.jpg

     


  9. Try a different or longer setting epoxy.  Try inletting the tang with a broach instead of burning it in.  Or, as you say, try a butt cap and peening over the tang. If your knife is mechanically fastened, great.  Even if it is, epoxy's not a bad idea.


  10. You guys got may have seen my recent thread about my power hammer build. Before I built that, I welded this three layer billet by hand. 15n20 outside over a 1084 core. This small Bowie is just shy of 11 inches overall. The handle is ringed gidgee from Australia. 
     
    15b7bb69e20a79c69fa9689a2909d79d.jpg
     
    8beab8a711ad4178597dab446e5aaf51.heic
     
    923d526a8fde51a8761cfd2a0d1ab84f.heic


  11. Ran it hard for three days with no major malfunctions. The way I had the dies set up to be interchangeable isn't going to work. It also hit much harder with a bit less space between the dies, but I was out of adjustment range, so I added a block of steel under the bottom die plate. I'll eventually need to lengthen the push arm to make up the adjustment. The weld between the bottom die and die plate cracked a little, and the bolt between the hammer shaft and top dies showed some pretty good wear. Looks like for the short term I'll have to weld up the interchangeable die parts to something more permanent, or at least change how the dies interchange. No structural failures or damage.

  12. I'll try and capture a flame pic.  Also have a couple of different sizes of mig tips around, may try a smaller and see how it goes.  I am 100% sure part of it is wind, as I've observed that on multiple occasions.  Still, seems to do it even when it's not windy.  


  13. Could the position of the mig nozzle relative to the air intake impact this problem?  I have slack to move the nozzle forward or back in the tube. 

    Took it apart and verified no clogs or junk in the nozzle. 


  14. Alright, forged about four hours today. Welded some Damascus also, very clean welds. Huffed intermittently all day running at 10 psi. Pulling the nozzle past the edge of the forge wall, further from the chamber, has no impact.