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I Forge Iron

Jason Fry

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Posts posted by Jason Fry

  1. Finished out my 666th knife over the weekend.  It's also the first one I've done out of canister Damascus.  The blade and fittings are from the same billet, a "trashcan" billet of ends and pieces canister welded with 1095 powder.  It's also my first time to try a subhilt.  Handle is gidgee. 

    Took some still pics last night.


  2. Well that all just changed, lol.  I went back out there and found even better options.  I think I'll end up with a 12 by 12 round with a 7.5 by 22 on top.  May put it on one of those 2" plates also.  655 in two pieces without the plate :)

    He's giving me a good price.  I'm going to buy everything suitable for PH anvils and flip some of it.  If you can "flip" a 300 pound thingamabob.

    Has a 6.5 by 48", 451 lbs. and a whole lot more. 

  3. Joints, yes.  Haven't decided on bolt together with brackets vs. welding it around the perimeters.  Moveability later is a consideration, as I don't intend to stay in this house forever.

    I'm thinking possibly weld the 6.5 to the 14.5, and triangular gussets?  Then bolt the rest?  Heck, IDK, lol.

  4. Made a trip to the steel yard, and was offered the friend price if I bought from the scrap pile outside.  Drew this up....


    I'm thinking 12" timbers underneath.  The 2" layer is a 2 by 24 round piece of mild.  The 14 by 7 is round, and the top 6.5 is round.  Total weight minus timbers is the numbers on the right, roughly 650.

    Will this be better, worse, or equal to a similar weight of round stock?

  5. Dang it, Thomas, now I have another rabbit trail I didn't need.  Saw a guy who rigged a trebuchet with the pivot only about 1 meter high to throw a tennis ball at 100 mph with only 15 kg of weight.  Now I'm thinking about how much velocity you could get out of a 75 lb weight throwing concrete dixie cups :)

  6. I'm not a rookie, but I made a rookie mistake I'll share with you folks as a public service announcement.  I responded to an ad on FB marketplace for an anvil.  Pics were clear-ish, but dimensions were not.  Seller made no claims of weight.  I made a deal to meet the guy halfway, 80 miles from my house.  Ended up he was running so late that I went all the way to his place.  Instead of meeting at 8 pm as agreed, I ended up at his house by 10:30 and back home by midnight.  We loaded it in the dark.  All along I'm thinking some kind of sawyer's anvil.  He had repeatedly not provided dimensions, and I knew it was smaller than I'd hoped, but still a useful size.  I looked it over with my phone light and paid the man. 

    So what I ended up with was this:  A cool looking cast iron 75 lb. tractor weight.  It has about 40% rebound, and I'll use it, but it sure as heck ISNT an anvil. I'll keep it around and maybe take it to demos or something, or use it as a cutting plate, or IDK yet. 


  7. Here we are two years later.  Hammer is still running fairly strong.  I've put about 30 hours on it in the last two months with all the virus quarantine, plus 5 or 10 hours a month since I built it.  No major malfunctions, although I did break and re-weld the pipe that holds the lower guide.  I also had to modify the way the top die attaches to the tup, as what I had wasn't strong enough.  Finally broke the welds enough times that the force split the angle iron brackets.

    I recently read through "Pounding out the Profits" for the first time, and have a few ideas on ways to improve my hammer performance.  I think maybe this weekend I'll build a connector to adjust the attachment point between the pitman and the spring, to see if moving the pitman closer to the tower will improve the stroke force.  Also have several better guide designs in my head, although I probably won't do anything with them. 

    I've done a few Damascus billets that were 2x2x6, and have forged out 1" by 2" by 3" pieces of solid as well.  I haven't used any other hammers to compare it to, but it does the job I built it for. 

  8. Been a while since I conceived this project.  Here's the final outcome.


    The blade is wrought iron wagon wheel and 1084 san mai.  The wrought is from my grandmother's grandfather's wagon out of Spicewood, Tx.  The guard is wagon wheel from Vega, TX.  The spacer is an 1836 half dollar, to commemorate Texas Independence and the pioneer spirit of the western travelers.  The handle is ash wood from a Springfield Wagon Company wagon tongue.  Springfield made wagons from 1873 to 1951.  The blade is 9.75", and the overall length is 15.75".  Flat ground, with the spine at a bit over 1/4" inch thick.

    This knife is not just art, it's a piece of high performance cutlery.  I used it in a cutting contest to commemorate the opening of the James Black School of Bladesmithing at historic Old Washington, AR.  Here's a link to a video of the knife at work cutting a 2x4. After this test, the knife maintained its sharpness through four other cutting tests.

    For more information and a few more pictures, click HERE

  9. I'm in Lubbock and watch the anvil market some.  It's been hot.  Seeing junk ASO's going in the 2-300 range.  Nicer stuff in the 4-500 range.  I'd put that range at anywhere between 4 and 8$ a pound.  Anything priced in the 2-3 per pound range lasts 5 minutes. 

    That said, the other guys are  spot on.  Work the network of old guys.  FB market place, craigslist, and ebay are all going to be over priced.

  10. I've got some wrought iron wagon rim that I'd like to incorporate into a knife blade.  I have done "regular" damascus and san mai, but have not worked much with wrought. 

    The rim is in the .3" range thick at the moment.  I plan to forge it down a little, but how far can I go?  I'm assuming I can run it through the power hammer at yellow heat?

    Next I'll grind off the scale and laminate it to a piece of blade steel.  I've got 1084 and W2 both on hand in 1/4" and 3/16 thick.  This would leave my final billet as thick as perhaps .6 or so after welding.  

    Again using the hammer, I assume this three layer stack of wrought/blade/wrought can be drawn out lengthwise?  Will the different rates of movement of the wrought vs. the core cause me problems here?

    After forging to profile, I figured to quench at near full thickness and grind in the bevels.  Any considerations for quenching?  Do I need a faster or slower oil to deal with the cladding?

    The rim I have came from my great great grandfather, and is fairly irreplaceable.  I'd like to get this one right. 

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