paulallen

Tom, Wayne -- Thanks for the pyrometer advice. -- paul

Lou -- Thanks. As Will Rogers wisely said, "We're all ignorant -- just about different things." At this point, I'm woefully ignorant about how to make stainless steel work for me in knifemaking at a reasonable expense. I'm trying to fix that . . . Tom -- Thanks much for the great pyrometer info. Just what I was looking for. I'll put it to use! -- paul Frosty -- Thanks for the advice. I do stock-removal. My non-keeper knives have been sent to an Arizona friend who has a fine arts shop for potential sale. I'm trying not to clutter up this great forum with non-useful material; my shop, kids, etc. ain't all that exciting, anyway . . .-- paul

Steve -- Sorry about that. I should have spent more time perusing the forum, clearly, to see that I was in the proper section (there are LOTS of categories . . .) I'd become frustrated trying to get some straightforward answers to two specific questions, got excited about finding a forum where I might find answers and rushed a bit too much. My apology! I'll try to do better the next time . . . honest . . . -- paul

Thanks so much, CMS3900. That's the information I was hoping to get. I'll look into that. Thanks again! -- paul

Lou -- Thanks for the advice. Been knife making since the '70s, starting with "recycled" files, scrap steel, purchased (non-stain) and then purchased stainless. (Nothing worse than a rusty knife . . . except NO knife . . .) Had early stainless (440C & 154CM) heat treated by Paul Bos. Made about 50 knives, sold some, gave some away. Then moved on to other hobbies. Resumed about 10 years ago (retired), now I'd like to heat treat my own stainless. Won't invest much in the effort, since I am too lazy to "market" my knives. I'm aware of still-air quenching, cryonic stress relieving, etc. Stress relief is mostly to preclude warping. Still-air quench (I assume) isn't an absolute necessity. I'm assuming (perhaps naively) that if I can manage the hardening "soak," I can prevent warpage without cryonic stress relief, and can quench stainless with an oil quench. If that's incorrect, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable on this forum will so advise me. My PRIMARY question was about locating a pyrometer. Do you have advice on that? Frosty -- Thanks to you, too, for the advice. I appreciate both your and Lou's taking the time to respond, but I'm not a "beginner." As I mentioned to Lou, I made about 50 knives in the '70s, and another couple dozen in the last decade or so. I work with stock removal (belt grinder and lotsa filing). I can't afford to invest hundreds/thousands of dollars into what is just a hobby for me, but I would like to be able to process stainless blades myself. Both you and Lou appear to have extensive experience with various steels. One question: Is there ANY stainless suitable for knifemaking that does NOT require the extended hardening "soak?" If you both indicate that it's impossible to harden/quench/temper stainless without expensive equipment, perhaps I'll shift gears and try to get back into black powder rifle building (have about three dozen of those completed over the years, but stopped because the parts folks are getting a bit too "proud" of their wares . . .). Maybe get back to the guitar and violin. Thanks much for the advice. STILL WOULD LIKE ADVICE ON A PYROMETER. My apologies for cluttering up this forum. -- paulallen, greencastle, IN

Recently acquired small knifemaker propane forge. Have everything ready to go except for a pyrometer. Would like advice on type (affordable), where to buy, estimated cost, installation, etc. Another question: Like to work with 154CM (or 154CMP or CPM?) for knives, and am told I need to "soak" it at hardening temperature (1950 f.) for two hours. How critical is the EXACT temperature and time? Tks! paulallen, greencastle, IN